9 replies to this topic

[harboged]

I know this has been covered before but I have mostly found information about SC cars and Turbos with stand-alone systems. I’m looking for advice on water injection for my VX Turbo with OEM ECU in order to decrease the very high intake temps I get when driving on track. So I’ve got some questions: 1. What would be the best solution for my engine configuration among the kits from AEM, Aquamist and maybe other manufacturers? Do I have another option than a boost controlled WI unit? As I understand it’s not optimal with a boost controlled unit but perhaps it’s the best I can do with my current configuration? 2. I’m planning to use 100% water since my main goal is to decrease IAT, not increase power. But as I understand it, a re-map is preferable anyway, otherwise the power can decrease quite a bit, is that correct? And if so, what happens if I drive without water on the road for example, will the engine run too lean with the risk of engine damage as a result? For track use it's no big thing to bring water, but for long trips I prefer not to bring water. Best thing would be to change map for the street when running without water but then I need to reprogram the ECU before each trackday and vice versa. The next best thing would be to run a map that is OK both for water and no water, but maybe that would be too much of a compromise? 3. So, if a re-map is required, then I guess I might as well could go for 50/50 water/meth and get some more HP? But I assume the engine would then be even more sensitive to running out of water/meth and I don’t want to drive around with extra water/meth in the trunk just to be able to get back home. So what should I use and how should I run it? I’m very confused so all opinions are greatly appreciated, thanks

[Duncan VXR]

Better cooler for charge temp control and no need for WI? Pro alloy well proven to work very well and better other options available You have not eluded to power running which may help. Crabash on here probably best to ping 😉 DG

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

this chap has the aquamist on his turbo car 

 

http://www.vx220.org...22044-scw02102/

 

not a lot of information on the car system but drop him a pm 

[harboged]

Better cooler for charge temp control and no need for WI? Pro alloy well proven to work very well and better other options available You have not eluded to power running which may help. Crabash on here probably best to ping 😉 DG

 

You mean a charge cooler? Yes, I have been thinking about that but believe that WI is cheaper, easier to install and the system should be lighter. Good thing is that you don't have to care about mapping though

 

Thanks, Crabash has been contacted

Edited by harboged, 17 August 2017 - 07:30 AM.

[harboged]

this chap has the aquamist on his turbo car 

 

http://www.vx220.org...22044-scw02102/

 

not a lot of information on the car system but drop him a pm 

 

Thanks, will do that

[chickendippers]

Ran water meth on my stage 5 VX220 turbo, gave about a 20bhp peak increase on the dyno and kept the intake temps down when the Pro Alloy chargecooler couldnt cope Inbox me if you're interested in an AEM kit and can sort you out a decent price. Only took a couple of hours to install

[harboged]

Ran water meth on my stage 5 VX220 turbo, gave about a 20bhp peak increase on the dyno and kept the intake temps down when the Pro Alloy chargecooler couldnt cope Inbox me if you're interested in an AEM kit and can sort you out a decent price. Only took a couple of hours to install

 

Thanks, I'll PM you

[scw02102]

I sent you a PM

 

1. I went for Aquamist wasnt the cheapest but got the best reviews and works well. I went for 2 nozzles fitted although I believe you can just 1 fit one if need be.

 

Q. how high was your inlets temps? Mines were 80-85 on the road 4th gear runs and 90 on track. Now I don't get more more than 40-45C on a hot day. My car is running an OEM turbo ECU

 

2. You don't have to remap it although I would defiantly recommend it. I was running 50/50 meth water and actually lost power as the car was running too rich but did achieve the lower. When the tank run out my car makes no boost to protect it so you cant do damage just anoying as its so slow LOL.

 

I have since fitted an additional 1L bottle that is used for top ups. If I run low the gauge flashes low. I just pull over top up the tank and carry on. Cost £5 for a cycle bottle holder that screws into the boot.

 

3. 50/50 you will gain more power but again only if you want it. You dont have to just depends on how much you tune it (add more timing). When you buy the Aquamist kit it comes with fail safe so if you run out not a problem, it basically vents the boost off (from what I understand). But you shouldn't run out as you get a warning first, pull over and top up. 

 

I would recommend fitting the biggest bottle you can fit as it doesn't use much driving round town and normal every day driving as you can choose when it comes in. E.g mines set to something like 70% duty cycle, 8psi boost and over 3500rpm etc... But when on track it would be squirting a lot so can empty fairly quickly. Thats when the the charger cooler kick ass as it wont run out, shame it costs at lot in the first place.

[harboged]

I sent you a PM

 

1. I went for Aquamist wasnt the cheapest but got the best reviews and works well. I went for 2 nozzles fitted although I believe you can just 1 fit one if need be.

 

Q. how high was your inlets temps? Mines were 80-85 on the road 4th gear runs and 90 on track. Now I don't get more more than 40-45C on a hot day. My car is running an OEM turbo ECU

 

2. You don't have to remap it although I would defiantly recommend it. I was running 50/50 meth water and actually lost power as the car was running too rich but did achieve the lower. When the tank run out my car makes no boost to protect it so you cant do damage just anoying as its so slow LOL.

 

I have since fitted an additional 1L bottle that is used for top ups. If I run low the gauge flashes low. I just pull over top up the tank and carry on. Cost £5 for a cycle bottle holder that screws into the boot.

 

3. 50/50 you will gain more power but again only if you want it. You dont have to just depends on how much you tune it (add more timing). When you buy the Aquamist kit it comes with fail safe so if you run out not a problem, it basically vents the boost off (from what I understand). But you shouldn't run out as you get a warning first, pull over and top up. 

 

I would recommend fitting the biggest bottle you can fit as it doesn't use much driving round town and normal every day driving as you can choose when it comes in. E.g mines set to something like 70% duty cycle, 8psi boost and over 3500rpm etc... But when on track it would be squirting a lot so can empty fairly quickly. Thats when the the charger cooler kick ass as it wont run out, shame it costs at lot in the first place.

 

Thanks for your information!

 

My inlet temps have reached approx 85 deg on trackdays.

[scw02102]

Sounds like mine 85C is often the case for me think I even peaked over 90C a few times.

With 2 nozzle even in 30C summer temp this year the most I hit was 47C.

 

The size, spray pattern and number of nozzles I guess can alter this a little but fantastic results in my eyes.

its a cheaper alternative to a CC if you can fit this kit or know someone who can fit the kit cheap. If only used on track Im guessing you will go through the tank fairly quickly so you need to find a cheap meth supplier or maybe just run water