29 replies to this topic

[VincentL]

Hey guys,

 

Did my first trackday at the Swedish race track Mantorp (not ideal for the car) and noticed that the temperature had gone WAY beyond my comfort zone (120C). Ambients temp were around 27C

 

The car is running stage 2.5 with a courtney map and a chargecooler installed post-map. What more can be done about getting the temperature and at what temperature should i really be getting worried? I've heard 120C, others say 130C but i had never previously seen it above 115.

 

I'm currently considering a separate oil cooler sitting in the turbo ear on the left hand side however i don't know how much cooling effect that will give.

 

Two decent laps from the trackday:

 

Cheers!

[Nev]

Jeeze, 120 degrees C, I've never heard of a Z20LET getting that high.

 

I think you really need to put some effort into cooling, bigger main rad, extra rads, oil cooler rad, take the floor pan off...

 

Honestly, that is propper hot, you've got to do something about that, Im surprised you didn't get head gasket problems and your coolant bottle cap explode!

 

How sure are you that your temp reading is correct and also is it possible you have an air lock?

 

GL.

 

 

Edited by Nev, 28 May 2018 - 01:50 PM.

[VincentL]

I have the pro alloy main rad already. Would be a pain to have to get another big rad to replace it. Not even sure how i'd fit a larger one with the pro alloy chargecooler rad sitting on top...

 

Pretty sure the temperature is accurate. The only reason it got that hot was because the issues with my garw display haven't been solved and the temperature readings are off. Had to use the ODB2 data to see the real temperature.

 

There could be an air lock however i've bled it multiple times both on the left hand side of the radiator and in the rear by the engine bay. Are there more bleeding nipples?

[vocky]

might also be worth replacing the thermostat, just in case

 

Also worth parking on a steep hill and bleeding the rad, hopefully then any trapped air will escape

[Ormes]

Not sure that sounds right... albeit ambient of 27C is hot!  A 20 minute odd session at Castle Combe when the ambient temps are 20C I'm at about 90C Water temp.  How long are you staying out to get to that temp?

 

EDIT TO ADD: Stage 2 Turbo

Edited by Ormes, 28 May 2018 - 02:18 PM.

[VincentL]

I think that was at the 16minute mark. I rarely do more than 10-15minutes but i believe i did do a cooldown lap in the middle. Can someone list the locations of the bleed nipples? Should i be facing uphill or downhill?

 

EDIT: Running vxr turbo

Edited by VincentL, 28 May 2018 - 02:41 PM.

[Nev]

I'd guess that you have a sensor or reading/conversion issue with your ODB2 reader, as 120 degrees is bonkers. I doubt the cap on the coolant tank would hold that back. Even your engine core plugs might be at risk of blowing out!

 

I suspect if you connected the temp sensor wire to your old OEM dash display it would give you a lower reading (hopefully!).

Edited by Nev, 29 May 2018 - 05:52 PM.

[The Batman]

is the car just for track or road aswell? If its just for track fit a triple pass rad

[VincentL]

I would say 90% track and then on rare occasions I go on the road.

[The Batman]

the tripple pass is less efficent at low speeds but is very efficent at higher speeds. I have the info somewhere i will try and dig it out

[The Batman]

32mm up to 42mm will see a gain of 11%, 17%, 8% and 0% at air flows through radiator at 10m/s, 7m/s, 4m/s and 2m/s respectively.

42mm up to Triple pass 42mm makes gains but only at high airflows: +6%, +2%, -4% and -10% at air flows through radiator at 10m/s, 7m/s, 4m/s and 2m/s respectively.

[siztenboots]

the turbo dash will only display upto 127'C , when it will flash like crazy!

 

does your coolant level drop with general use?

 

what is the highest level after coming into pits?

 

do you ever notice steam from the cap when you get near 100'C

[Duncan VXR]

I would be checking

cap working correctly / no cracks in header tank

System bled fully

Could also be stat, water pump (seen impellers missing and also where belt driven but internal wheel slipping reducing pumping

Also saw some interesting temps running older cc setup and reduced cooling had a knock on effect to water temps

DG

[VincentL]

I'm using a garw display that isn't showing any relevant values.

The coolant does drop during general use

I haven't explicitly checked the coolant level right after a session but I believe it was slightly below half full.

No steam has been noted above 100C or otherwise.

I'm currently considering getting a oil cooler to put in the left ear. Ideally I'd like to have an oil temp and pressure reading before that though. I've never heard of anyone else doing it though.

[VincentL]

The header tank is looking real old and yellow but I've not seen any cracks. Will start with getting the car up to temp and then let it rest with the cap off in steep uphill/downhill. Another idea I've been toying with is purchasing an electric water pump like what Mattias is using.

[Ormes]

I'm currently considering getting a oil cooler to put in the left ear.

 

Masking a problem that needs tracing and resolving in my opinion.
 

[VincentL]

I believe the fault lies with the cc radiator restricting airflow but I will definitely check the cap, coolant level, bleed the system before investing anything more. It seems highly likely that a poor bleed after the cc install could be the source.

I'm already above budget and any additional money spent will essentially take from my trackday budget....

Here is a full video of me driving with the coolant temperature recorded. It seems the temperature increases 1C per lap or 90 seconds.

[VincentL]

https://youtu.be/WknSuLK2leU

No edit button on mobile....

[Nev]

I believe the fault lies with the cc radiator restricting airflow but I will definitely check the cap, coolant level, bleed the system before investing anything more. It seems highly likely that a poor bleed after the cc install could be the source.

That's an internet myth on the whole... loads of us have a CC rad and Pro-alloy water rad like you and don't get any water temp problems so long as the car is moving over about 30 MPH.

The CC cooler rad might cause a couple of extra degrees difference, but not 30!

By virtue of the fact that your car engine still works, I'd guess that your reading is incorrectly high (ie either sensor or display device).

Edited by Nev, 29 May 2018 - 07:16 PM.

[smiley]

the turbo dash will only display upto 127'C , when it will flash like crazy!

 

 

NA dash will go to 130 before hitting flash mode.

That was the day I needed a new engine.