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P1516 - After Sc Conversion


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#1 Speedsterfromnorth

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Posted 23 April 2019 - 07:34 AM

Hi, 

 

After start up i get the P1516 failure and I have read about this what ii mean and also what have been the problem with others. 

 

Yesterday I took of the EGR cheater after reading on this forum, but have not tried it yet. 

 

The engine is running OK, but seem to miss a little power sometimes. 

 

Can it be that i have mix some cable when rewired plug for LSJ throttle body ? 
 

I'm using the dutch software. 

 

 

I also get the P0443 evap solenoid since this i removed. Can i just plug the solenoid in the cable, or solder in an resistance ? ( I measured it to approx. 23,5ohm) or is it some way to disable in the software ? 

 

 



#2 smiley

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Posted 23 April 2019 - 08:08 AM

1516 has also been reported to be the fuel pump relay in the back.
Could you give that a clean? Also maybe swap it with the relay from the horn (in the front) as a test.

 



#3 Speedsterfromnorth

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Posted 23 April 2019 - 09:13 AM

1516 has also been reported to be the fuel pump relay in the back.
Could you give that a clean? Also maybe swap it with the relay from the horn (in the front) as a test.

 

Thx, i will try that :-) 

 

If that is so, Where is best place to buy new relays ? 



#4 smiley

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Posted 23 April 2019 - 09:45 AM

The grey relay is luckily a common and affordable item.

Bosch 0332209159

 

Just search at your favorite location.
If you need it cheap, and used is ok, then this for example.

http://cgi.ebay.co.u...em=251221175703

 



#5 Zoobeef

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Posted 23 April 2019 - 09:56 AM

I just left the evap plugged in. You need the pro software to disable it.



#6 Speedsterfromnorth

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Posted 29 April 2019 - 06:45 PM

I now let the evap in, remove egr cheater, and erase the error codes but when engine get temperature IT comeback back.
When erasing with normal temp on engine ITS coming back at once.

#7 smiley

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Posted 29 April 2019 - 07:08 PM

I take it you are on obdtuner.

Can you run a log file and post it?

 



#8 Speedsterfromnorth

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Posted 30 April 2019 - 08:35 PM

I take it you are on obdtuner.

Can you run a log file and post it?

 

See Attached file. 

The car is running like normal but seems to have a little less Power than when feilure is gone. 

 

Is it Dangerous to drive With ? 

 

Can it be something wrong With Connection on throttle body `?

Attached Files



#9 Exmantaa

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Posted 30 April 2019 - 09:56 PM

Cannot read your log file, but P1516 is some error with the trottlebody.

 

Which diagram did you use for the TB re-wiring, as there is a wrong scheme somewhere on the net...

 

 



#10 Speedsterfromnorth

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Posted 30 April 2019 - 10:04 PM

Cannot read your log file, but P1516 is some error with the trottlebody.

Which diagram did you use for the TB re-wiring, as there is a wrong scheme somewhere on the net...


I attached the file in latest post.

I used the witing from obs tuner, but did wrong first. Is IT an essay way to checking this AS some of the wires seks to have the same color ?

#11 smiley

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Posted 30 April 2019 - 10:04 PM

Cannot read your log file

 

Rename the nordic characters in the file name and try again.
 



#12 Speedsterfromnorth

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Posted 30 April 2019 - 10:13 PM

 

Cannot read your log file

 

Rename the nordic characters in the file name and try again.
 

 

Trying again :-)

Attached Files



#13 Exmantaa

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Posted 01 May 2019 - 07:57 AM

Quick look at your log  @5000:

rpm ~1150

throttle valve pos. ~9%

MAP 38KPa

Ign -5° (so retarded after BDP, which is not normal...)

 

It looks like the ecu is trying to lower the idle rpm (should be below 1000rpm for a normal stage 2 SC base map?) by shutting the throttle (9% is pretty closed) and if that fails it tries to lower rpm by taking out ignition timing. So you end up with the retarded -5° ignition...

 

I had these issues with a small air leak in the intake tract; so check for air leaks with spraying some brake cleaner around the intake. Also the injector seals can cause airleaks.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 



#14 Speedsterfromnorth

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Posted 01 May 2019 - 09:45 AM

Quick look at your log  @5000:

rpm ~1150

throttle valve pos. ~9%

MAP 38KPa

Ign -5° (so retarded after BDP, which is not normal...)

 

It looks like the ecu is trying to lower the idle rpm (should be below 1000rpm for a normal stage 2 SC base map?) by shutting the throttle (9% is pretty closed) and if that fails it tries to lower rpm by taking out ignition timing. So you end up with the retarded -5° ignition...

 

I had these issues with a small air leak in the intake tract; so check for air leaks with spraying some brake cleaner around the intake. Also the injector seals can cause airleaks.

 

Thx a lot for replying, 

 

If I understand you correct you mean that it is some air leakage after the throttle body ? Or after supercharger ? 

 

What do you mean by intake tract ? 

 

On the injectors i used 2 washers between fuel rail and engine as it looked like i stressed the injectors too much. 

Can it be that ? 



#15 Exmantaa

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Posted 01 May 2019 - 10:35 AM

An air leak can be anywhere after the trottlebody; TB gasket, SC gasket/plugs, manifold gasket /map sensor seal/pressure regulator hose. Injector seals...

Spray some brake cleaner at various parts and listen if/where the revs change.

 

Which rail & injectors did you use?



#16 Speedsterfromnorth

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Posted 01 May 2019 - 03:58 PM

I used original fuel rail and Bosch 0 280 158 123 injektorer with alu adapters. Tried know and no change in rpm when spraying down there.

What i found is that the tmap sensor seem to have vert much space around in the Hole in the manifold.
Using sensor 0 261 230 042.

I tried to put an o-ring on IT and The the idle rpm went down to approx. 900rpm, but still the Pressire is about 40.

Is there something i Can do to the sensor ? What should the pressure be while idling ?

#17 Exmantaa

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Posted 01 May 2019 - 04:37 PM

Well, you found 1 air leak. thumbsup 

Your idle is set to 850 >50*C, so maybe the throttle will close a bit more and lowers MAP to ~35KPa. (If you have hot cams, the idle pressure will be higher)

 

Used MAP sensors often have a worn (square) o-ring. Replace till it fits snug in the manifold, or use some silicone gasket material.

 

The Bosch injectors can be a bit tricky to fit, as they are "almost" the right length. My experience is that you have to mount the rail a bit higher with washers, but also a tad more out with elongated holes.

 

Post a new log with non-leaking sensor. :happy:

 



#18 Speedsterfromnorth

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Posted 01 May 2019 - 06:06 PM

I took out tmap sensor put on an extra o - ring under the top and greased it up with silicone sealant. 

 

No error codes as far as I can see :-) 



#19 Speedsterfromnorth

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Posted 02 May 2019 - 10:45 AM

And started today, and back again after a drive. 

 

Sprayed every connection and no change in rpm or bubbles. 

 

The manifold gaskets is new, and was neat full arranged so my opinion is that this can be excluded. 

 

Can it be the t-map sensor ? Or throttle body ? 



#20 Exmantaa

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Posted 02 May 2019 - 01:28 PM

Post a new log file.






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