Billy No Mates
Posted 24 July 2019 - 03:47 PM
Does anyone have a standard new vx220 fuel tank-pump seal lying around? Or know where I can get one before the weekend? Is the one from Elise Shop the correct one? I am fitting a spitfire fuel pump to a VX220 fuel tank.
Edited by sford, 24 July 2019 - 03:52 PM.
Super Duper Member
Posted 24 July 2019 - 04:14 PM
Billy No Mates
Posted 25 July 2019 - 08:14 AM
He is/was, just waiting on a reply to tell me how to pay. Wondered if this was the same one.
Edited by sford, 25 July 2019 - 08:15 AM.
Scary Internerd
Posted 25 July 2019 - 08:23 AM
The Spitfire pump unit needs a double o-ring to properly seal; normally provided with the pump
Billy No Mates
Posted 25 July 2019 - 09:16 AM
The Spitfire pump unit needs a double o-ring to properly seal; normally provided with the pump
Is that to fit to a standard tank?
Scary Internerd
Posted 25 July 2019 - 11:01 AM
Also with the standard tank. The standard VX pumpunit has a raised lip on the top side where the o-ring sit against. The new unit from Spitfire does not have this raised lip, so to push the seal deep enough in the tank opening, you need to fill the free space above with an extra o-ring... (must have dimensions somewhere, but Gaz can provide all info)
Billy No Mates
Posted 25 July 2019 - 11:57 AM
Also with the standard tank. The standard VX pumpunit has a raised lip on the top side where the o-ring sit against. The new unit from Spitfire does not have this raised lip, so to push the seal deep enough in the tank opening, you need to fill the free space above with an extra o-ring... (must have dimensions somewhere, but Gaz can provide all info)
Thanks, he's been in touch now and all sorted.
Need to get Out More
Posted 25 July 2019 - 03:05 PM
For clarification the top ring is just a spacer, the lower ring is the nitrile seal though all rings are in fact nitrile.
The reason is that the ProAlloy tanks have not matched the OE tanks pump receptor and have lost the mechanical advantage of the OE tank.
The OE seal touches the sides, the tank side is conical so you press the seal into a decreasing space.
The ProA version is a compression seal on the top and bottom so just the force of your fingers, by using a shallower spacer and a wider seal the seal arrangement is improved over the OE pumps by using the sides as well as the top/bottom faces.
Billy No Mates
Posted 29 July 2019 - 01:40 PM
Can someone change the thread title to 'Fuel tank power connector'?
I have the tank in and sorted now, the circlip was surprisingly easy compared to all the horror stories I've read on here. My next problem (serves me right for not buying new) is that the loom that came with the pump has the new style connector and my car obviously has the old. I want to change to the new type connector without using an adapter and will fit the new plug. I have the pin out but need some new pins for the connector as I don't want to reuse the old ones. Does anyone know where I can get automotive pin replacements from that are decent and not just really bad metal that will rust instantly? Or the whole new connector to fit onto the loom. My googlefu is only throwing up US sites.
Need to get Out More
Posted 29 July 2019 - 02:13 PM
Can someone stop Tom multiple posting!
Super Member
Posted 29 July 2019 - 02:49 PM
You mention a new loom that came with the pump and are asking about the outside connector on the car's loom I assume. That means you have a new bulkhead connector for the fuel pump housing. That's a Delphi multipack 150/280. On the outside it's a straight metripack 280. I don't think 280 pins fit the old metripack 150 connector that's on the loom of the car, so you have to change the whole connector to a metripack 280. You should be able to source that from the likes of RS Components and such. Issue with these connectors is that often you have to order them in components: the connector itself, the pins, the weather seals and the weather sleeve. Some places sell them as complete units, which makes ordering a lot easier. The connectors are pretty standard and widely used.
BTW, if you have upgraded the pump, you might also want to check the wiring. The power wires are not really designed to take much more abuse then from the OEM pump. When you're at it, upgrading the power wires is not a bad idea.
Billy No Mates
Posted 29 July 2019 - 03:24 PM
Can someone stop Tom multiple posting!
No idea why that has happened, must be the work internet as only clicked it once!
You mention a new loom that came with the pump and are asking about the outside connector on the car's loom I assume. That means you have a new bulkhead connector for the fuel pump housing. That's a Delphi multipack 150/280. On the outside it's a straight metripack 280. I don't think 280 pins fit the old metripack 150 connector that's on the loom of the car, so you have to change the whole connector to a metripack 280. You should be able to source that from the likes of RS Components and such. Issue with these connectors is that often you have to order them in components: the connector itself, the pins, the weather seals and the weather sleeve. Some places sell them as complete units, which makes ordering a lot easier. The connectors are pretty standard and widely used.
BTW, if you have upgraded the pump, you might also want to check the wiring. The power wires are not really designed to take much more abuse then from the OEM pump. When you're at it, upgrading the power wires is not a bad idea.
Wow, exactly what I was looking for! You are exactly right, the connector I want to replace is the old square one on the loom side as the new pump uses the newer connector. I was scrolling through the RS site but wasn't sure on the size. The new pump has a lower draw according to Gaz so I'm not especially worried about replacing the wiring.
For reference, my standard (old) connector shows no signs of corrosion, shorting or heating up. In face, inside the seal the plug is very clean.
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