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Chassis Earth Point Collet / Spacer


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#1 Rosssco

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Posted 15 August 2019 - 08:25 PM

The rear chassis earth point has a little alloy spacer that connects to the chassis and the earth points.

 

Still trying to identify my starting issue, I removed the rear and cleaned, then the front. The front didnt have one fitted.

 

Should the front earth point have one fitted, and if so, anyone know where I can get one?

 

I suppose I could just use a thick washer in the interim..

 

Thanks



#2 The Batman

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Posted 16 August 2019 - 02:04 AM

Front doesn’t have one bud

#3 Rosssco

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Posted 16 August 2019 - 07:02 AM

Front doesn’t have one bud

 

Thanks for the confirmation Joe! 



#4 Arno

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Posted 16 August 2019 - 07:04 AM

Strange..

 

The parts lists does show '2' part 14 spacer fitted to the car: https://www.speedste...eads/index.html

 

S1 Elises do have them at the front and the back.

 

The 'stepped washer' is used to contact the area around the rivnut where the anodisation has been removed at the factory to create the ground path:

 

ground.jpg

 

That would still be needed unless the VX doesn't have the anodisation removed in a circle around the rivnut. Should be easy to see with a flashlight and a mirror as the bare alu is a little different shade than the anodised area of the rest.

 

Bye, Arno.



#5 Rosssco

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Posted 16 August 2019 - 09:43 AM

Hi Arno, yeah I presumed there would be one on the front connection if there was one on the rear..

 

The front looks to have the same rivnet insert as the rear, and a flat terminal connection, therefore the contact wouldnt be that good presumably. I can't see if the anodization has been removed, but either way, without the stepped washer, it would just be connecting to the rivnut.

 

All my starting issues appears round about the time I fitted a different exhaust, and mucked about with one of those battery isolation terminal (with the screw knob) on my already dodgy looking negative terminal / earth strap.

 

 

Other question - I've changed the front battery negative terminal (easy enough with a section of earth wire and two flat terminals), but where does the positive battery connection go to (item 6)? Looks like it disappears under the windscreen or into the sill somewhere..



#6 Matthew Bentley Racing Ltd

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Posted 19 August 2019 - 08:26 AM

Hi Arno, yeah I presumed there would be one on the front connection if there was one on the rear..

 

The front looks to have the same rivnet insert as the rear, and a flat terminal connection, therefore the contact wouldnt be that good presumably. I can't see if the anodization has been removed, but either way, without the stepped washer, it would just be connecting to the rivnut.

 

All my starting issues appears round about the time I fitted a different exhaust, and mucked about with one of those battery isolation terminal (with the screw knob) on my already dodgy looking negative terminal / earth strap.

 

 

Other question - I've changed the front battery negative terminal (easy enough with a section of earth wire and two flat terminals), but where does the positive battery connection go to (item 6)? Looks like it disappears under the windscreen or into the sill somewhere..

Have you tried adding an extra earth from the engine to the battery? Even if its temporary with a long jump lead and see if this helps? If it does you know your on the right track.

 

MBR



#7 Rosssco

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Posted 19 August 2019 - 10:49 AM

Yeah I'll get the jump leads out and see if this make a difference, thanks. I have tried jumping from another car in the past.

 

I have now replaced the battery terminals and earth cables, and cleaned / prepped the chassis points as best I can, so will see if that makes any difference whatsoever!



#8 techieboy

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Posted 19 August 2019 - 10:58 AM

No longer entirely sure what the symptoms of your problem are but have you checked the fuel cut-off button wiring/function? Cliffie (and I think NickB777) had problems with the wiring for theirs and had to bypass it.



#9 Rosssco

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Posted 19 August 2019 - 11:08 AM

No longer entirely sure what the symptoms of your problem are but have you checked the fuel cut-off button wiring/function? Cliffie (and I think NickB777) had problems with the wiring for theirs and had to bypass it.

 

Yeah the wiring was a bit dodgy for that too (and it was one of my initial thoughts, and as I had to use some 'hammer time' to get the exhaust on, maybe affected it), but I just bypassed it, and no apparent difference.

 

Plus it will start now occasionally, but not others.



#10 Talk-torque

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Posted Yesterday, 04:09 PM

We had all last summer chasing an intermittent starting problem. First idea was the battery, as it seemed to start better when it had just been charged. No change with a new Halfords, so tried a Bosch battery, but no change there either. Next idea was the starter, so we fitted a refurbed starter from Euro Car Parts. No change there either, so we got to checking earths etc. as you are now. I actually ran a new earth cable from the battery to the engine and a new, heavier gauge wire from the yellow relay to the starter. No change! The alternator checked out OK, so we were running out of ideas.

The change came when someone suggested getting back to basics and actually checking what voltages we were getting at the starter. The voltage from the yellow relay to the solenoid was OK, as was the voltage from the battery to the starter, and the starter body was properly earthed to the new cable terminal, so the starter really had no excuses.

When we tried a “known to be working” second hand starter, it worked as it should and is still in the car. The refurbed starter from Euro Car Parts had exactly the same symptoms as the original starter. What are the chances? ECP gave us a refund without any questions.

So, don’t rule anything out and do check voltages etc. at the starter. Doing that would have saved us a lot of time.

#11 Rosssco

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Posted Yesterday, 07:52 PM

We had all last summer chasing an intermittent starting problem. First idea was the battery, as it seemed to start better when it had just been charged. No change with a new Halfords, so tried a Bosch battery, but no change there either. Next idea was the starter, so we fitted a refurbed starter from Euro Car Parts. No change there either, so we got to checking earths etc. as you are now. I actually ran a new earth cable from the battery to the engine and a new, heavier gauge wire from the yellow relay to the starter. No change! The alternator checked out OK, so we were running out of ideas.

The change came when someone suggested getting back to basics and actually checking what voltages we were getting at the starter. The voltage from the yellow relay to the solenoid was OK, as was the voltage from the battery to the starter, and the starter body was properly earthed to the new cable terminal, so the starter really had no excuses.

When we tried a “known to be working” second hand starter, it worked as it should and is still in the car. The refurbed starter from Euro Car Parts had exactly the same symptoms as the original starter. What are the chances? ECP gave us a refund without any questions.

So, don’t rule anything out and do check voltages etc. at the starter. Doing that would have saved us a lot of time.

 

Very frustrating isnt it! Especially when you've changed all the parts, turn the key, and are greeted with the same disappointing sound.. Haha..

 

The same thing was actually suggested to me today - start checking connector and loom resistances, and I guess voltages too. I was hoping to get a pro in to do that, but there's virtually nobody that does that up here, so I guess I'll have a go myself.

 

I bought a used starter, but tbh, I think the starting issue is just a symptom of a larger electrical issue - poor earthing / broken or shorting wire / bad connector etc. so I guess its down to that.. 

 

On the plus side, I know far more about electrics than I did before (having basically replaced everything electrical :D)

 

Thanks!






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