30 replies to this topic

[stuH172]

I've done some reading around on the options for the n/a but I'm struggling with the often conflicting info and the number of options. Before getting the VX, I thought I'd go the AMD route with a Miltek system, but things have got a little confusing lately. Before taking the plunge, I looked at a car that had all the paperwork, receipts, RR plots, etc that showed 175BHP and an elevated torque curve as a result of Miltek system and AMD remap only, but I've also read details about the same mods plus headwork/cams, etc showing the SAME results, but a lot more ££££ spent. I know there will be some variation between cars, but I want to be fairly sure what I'm going to get for my ££££. I don't really want to spend much more than £1k and want to make sure I get as much bang for my bucks as possible Any comments/advice/recommendations from those that have "been there and done it" would be great.

[clipping_point]

Some RR plots may be somewhat optimistic. It is hard to believe 175 HP from a silencer and remap job. Maybe 10-15 HP is realistic. Myself I´ve chosen also a 5 kg flywheel and a WeaponR manifold - and GOD, those things liven up the bus engine!!!!

[PaulCP]

Always look for BHP @ the wheels for real comparisons

[benw]

You don't need +10Bhp. Money is much better spent on suspension and brake mods IMHO.

[stuH172]

Anyone been the AMD route - remap and Miltek (is this referred to as Stage 1 ??) - what results did you get, was it money well spent ?? The 2.2 just doesn't seem a particularly "revvy" unit - certainly nothing like my Clio Cup, which has a real kick beyond 4.5k and pulls stongly thru to limiter. This is what I want to address - so what's best ??

[Thorney]

to get the revvyness you need a lightened flywheel.

[VIX]

Any comments/advice/recommendations from those that have "been there and done it" would be great.

Have a look at the thread [HERE]. I posted my experience from a full Miltek, Stage 2 remap and Viper done at AMD. Look for my posts around September on page 11 including the dynaplot.
Performance wise I was not happy with results at least on paper. It was a lot of money for an additional 11 bhp. There is a flat spot around 4k. The sound from the induction can be loud and annoying although you can generally keep it in the quiet band for motorway cruising.
On the track I think the performance is probably better (no proof) and the flat spot isn't noticable. The noise can also be amazing.
On balance I don't regret the mods. It would be nice if AMD would increase the rev limit a bit. You'll need the Miltek for the Courteney Hitec Supercharger conversion!
Good luck with your decision. I'm sure others will have differing views on the success of their mods and how best to spend the money!

[njc11]

Just wondering, with a lightened flywheel and say a milltek and a remap on the 2.2 16v, how does the car idle?? Also with removeing the precat (2.2 16v) does that make it a little more revvy??? Cheers Nick

[coopa]

Unless the remap also changes the engine idle control loop parameters then it should be the same I would think. Any properly developed control algorithm should be able to cope with a lower drive train inertia. A lot of research goes into the development of the control algorithms for engine idle. It is a notoriously difficult control systems problem, as the process requires a finely controlled output (the engine speed) when there is a poor system response time (poor throttle response at low revs). Don't have the light flywheel fitted though so this is theory only!

[VIX]

Unless the remap also changes the engine idle control loop parameters then it should be the same I would think.

I think the lighter flywheel does mean a lumpier tickover. I think rubber has had it done, possibly others. Worth a search.

Edit: Try this one [HERE]

Edited by VIX, 19 May 2005 - 10:16 AM.

[streetboy]

Buy my Turbo - pulls all the way to 150. [see below]

[Bengie]

The stage III AMD tune does have a lumpy idle - that's probably due to the lightened flywheel, and the lumpy cams. I'm sure it could be tuned out, but it's quite nice really, and it's not as though the car is threatening to stall all the time.

[TurboTomato]

My Exige had a pretty lumpy idle but I loved it - gives it a sense of purpose However it was a bit of an arse having to change into first when turning into junctions unless you wanted to bunny-hop around in 2nd

[theturbs]

You don't need +10Bhp. Money is much better spent on suspension and brake mods IMHO.

My thoughts as well

[Jim_Cross]

Depends what you use it for as to whether it is worth going for power and noise, or brakes and suspension. If, like me, you spend 95% of your time on the road, then I think exhaust/induction kit/remap is a good combination. You get a great grin factor from the noise, and there is definitely a very perceivable performance gain, with the added noise magnifying that effect. 175bhp from a car with only exhaust/induction and remap is extremely unlikely. I think at one time AmD found their rolling road to be very optimistic, and have since started calibrating it much more often. This may be rubbish, but I seem to remember reading that here. If that's the case, it could explain the inflated figure. With those mods, the best you're likely to get is ~170bhp. I've got 168bhp from mine (full exhaust with 100 cell race cat, ITG induction kit and Courtenay remap). However, it's not about the headline power figure. It's about the torque right across the rev range, which is vastly improved. The car might not be massively quicker across country than it was before, but it feels much more sporty, more lively, and has an even greater factor. IMO the only brake upgrade you need is Pagids if you do a lot of track work. Mintex M1144s are great for road use, and are cheaper than standard pads. Whether a suspension upgrade is worth it depends on whether you do a lot of track driving, and what the roads you tend to drive are like. Most of the roads near me are too bumpy to justify anything stiffer, or lower. The setup feels spot on for road use to me. If you go for the exhaust/induction/remap route, have a search around for posts on all the usual suspects (Courtenay, AmD, Regal), as well as individual bits and pieces (Pipercross Viper, ITG, Milltek etc). You don't necessarily have to get all the bits from once place, though it may end up being cheaper if you do.

[clipping_point]

The 5 kg flywheel from Courtenay does not give a lumpy idle.

I know the Piper 266° cams give a somewhat lumpy idle, even combined with the std, heavy, flywheel.

You will barely feel any difference just with a Milltek and a remap.

There other things u may want to do:

• A Quaife LSD £500 (+ install)
• Nitron shocks £1000
• Piper cams £200 (+ install)
• Courtenay 5,6 kg flywheel £250 (+ install)
• WeaponR manifold £350 (+ install)

..all of ém good alternatives

[Jim_Cross]

I strongly disagree that you wouldn't feel the effects of a remap, exhaust and induction kit. Of course, it depends which ones you go for, and how the car responds to it, but mine feels a lot different now BTW, Stu, are you from the Evo forum?

[Richiemouse]

175bhp from a car with only exhaust/induction and remap is extremely unlikely. I think at one time AmD found their rolling road to be very optimistic, and have since started calibrating it much more often. This may be rubbish, but I seem to remember reading that here.
If that's the case, it could explain the inflated figure.

Jon at Couteney's exlained that their RR gave some pretty impressive figures at first but they tracked it down to tyre slip, hence on my LY they had a big barrel of water in the boot + Jon adding his weight to the rear end. I guess this wouldn't be such a problem in a lard arse turbot

Have a look at the Courteney Remap Group Buy thread as quite a few of us posted before and after graphs and there were a few different mod combinations.

[Flanners]

Got a full stage 3 and I am getting nearly 180bhp, think it is 178. sumfink. That is with flywheel, cams, headwork etc. SO I think that 170bhp with a Stage 1/2 is highly optimistic!? Stage 3 does make the car revvy and it feels very fast especially from 4000rpm. Is it worth the big money over modding a turbo with a set of Nitrons, I'm not too sure. Good car though!

[Thorney]

the lumpy idle is caused by the cams not the flywheel.