Jump to content


Photo

Radiator Replacement Guide


  • Please log in to reply
32 replies to this topic

#21 goodeg

goodeg

    Super Member

  • PipPip
  • 336 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Cumbria

Posted 11 February 2010 - 07:05 PM

All the pictures have gone on this thread. Has anybody got a PDF version of this guide?


Here.

#22 Mangham54

Mangham54

    Wannabe....

  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 12,034 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Baaaaarrrrnnnnssssllleeeeyyyy

Posted 11 February 2010 - 07:45 PM


All the pictures have gone on this thread. Has anybody got a PDF version of this guide?


Here.


As a matter of interest are there any particular signs of an airlock in the cooling system?

The only reason I ask is that when having a look at why the rad seemed to be weeping and when feeling at the coolant pipe in and out there was a considerable difference in difficulty to squeeze it. So I started the engine back up (had just warmed it up properly) and the inlet pipe was red hot along with half of the radiator, so I undid the rad bleed screw and no coolant was coming out at first. Tightened it back up and the rest of the rad started to heat up so I opened it again until I felt the hot coolant started to weep out.

Should you be able to visibly see the coolant moving in the header tank, as I can honestly say it never looks like it is doing anything!

Or should I now do the bleed screw in the engine bay for good measure?

#23 vx220soon

vx220soon

    Super Member

  • PipPip
  • 275 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Lincolnshire

Posted 11 February 2010 - 07:54 PM


All the pictures have gone on this thread. Has anybody got a PDF version of this guide?


Here.

Brilliant, thanks for that.

#24 SteveA

SteveA

    .

  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 9,151 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:North East UK

Posted 11 February 2010 - 08:44 PM


As a matter of interest are there any particular signs of an airlock in the cooling system?

The only reason I ask is that when having a look at why the rad seemed to be weeping and when feeling at the coolant pipe in and out there was a considerable difference in difficulty to squeeze it. So I started the engine back up (had just warmed it up properly) and the inlet pipe was red hot along with half of the radiator, so I undid the rad bleed screw and no coolant was coming out at first. Tightened it back up and the rest of the rad started to heat up so I opened it again until I felt the hot coolant started to weep out.

Should you be able to visibly see the coolant moving in the header tank, as I can honestly say it never looks like it is doing anything!

Or should I now do the bleed screw in the engine bay for good measure?


Header tank fluid will only be visible when the pressure is fully up.

Typical sign of air locks will be temps going up and down.

In the words of Leona Lewis, Keep Bleedin' :D

#25 Mangham54

Mangham54

    Wannabe....

  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 12,034 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Baaaaarrrrnnnnssssllleeeeyyyy

Posted 11 February 2010 - 09:07 PM


As a matter of interest are there any particular signs of an airlock in the cooling system?

The only reason I ask is that when having a look at why the rad seemed to be weeping and when feeling at the coolant pipe in and out there was a considerable difference in difficulty to squeeze it. So I started the engine back up (had just warmed it up properly) and the inlet pipe was red hot along with half of the radiator, so I undid the rad bleed screw and no coolant was coming out at first. Tightened it back up and the rest of the rad started to heat up so I opened it again until I felt the hot coolant started to weep out.

Should you be able to visibly see the coolant moving in the header tank, as I can honestly say it never looks like it is doing anything!

Or should I now do the bleed screw in the engine bay for good measure?


Header tank fluid will only be visible when the pressure is fully up.

Typical sign of air locks will be temps going up and down.

In the words of Leona Lewis, Keep Bleedin' :D




As in the temperature going up and down when stationary as mine generally sits comfortably at 88*C or when on the move when it will move up and down a few *C depending on speed?

Plus should I see the coolant entering the header tank from the pipe at the top, or just swirling inside? Had the boot open so many times in the last 11months and cannot honestly say I have ever noticed the coolant in the header tank doing anything other than very slowly disappearing over period of weeks / 1-2k miles

I will have to keep an eye on it if I can drive it up to Newcastle this weekend to see this missus after seeing the Hospital and getting a thumbsup for my left eye tomorrow, otherwise I am on the train.... again thumbsdown

Am properly fed up of the lack of sight and crappy creams and drops I have to keep putting into it. At least the pain has now gone.

#26 Adonai

Adonai

    Member

  • Pip
  • 161 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Tenerife, Spain

Posted 28 October 2010 - 10:23 AM


All the pictures have gone on this thread. Has anybody got a PDF version of this guide?


Here.


thank! I will need it in short time

#27 Andy_sx

Andy_sx

    Member

  • Pip
  • 159 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Kent
  • Interests:Cars, bikes, racing, food, girls and snowboarding... not always in that order

Posted 30 November 2011 - 04:19 PM

Where could I find the c clips? Will be replacing the cooling system at the weekend, and these are the last bits I need

#28 jules_s

jules_s

    Iceman

  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 15,275 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:The Porker showroom
  • Interests:Plane spotting

Posted 15 March 2012 - 09:52 PM

Great review so far

Keep it up, it will no doubt be an great addition to the 'useful' threads sticky.

thumbsup



This guide will be posted in several chunks so please don't post till im done, cheers.


:rolleyes:



:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

Was that a sarcastic post 18 months later?

Anyways, thanks again to Steve for posting this thread.....given my car has hardly spent a day in a garage before last year I'm really looking forward to all of the dremelling :rolleyes:

#29 fezzasus

fezzasus

    Whipping Boy

  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 7,689 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Oxford

Posted 16 March 2012 - 08:07 AM

Where could I find the c clips? Will be replacing the cooling system at the weekend, and these are the last bits I need


ebay http://www.ebay.co.u...#ht_1332wt_1110

#30 a4boltman

a4boltman

    Member

  • Pip
  • 24 posts

Posted 20 March 2012 - 09:39 PM

Guys, Speedy Fasteners do a full stainless steel radiator bolts kit including all the c clips you need...
http://cgi.ebay.co.u...T#ht_1266wt_986

#31 jules_s

jules_s

    Iceman

  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 15,275 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:The Porker showroom
  • Interests:Plane spotting

Posted 20 March 2012 - 09:49 PM

Cheers What are the scrivets for?

#32 richclem

richclem

    Super Member

  • PipPip
  • 339 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Nottingham

Posted 10 September 2012 - 07:58 AM

One item not mentioned in the guide is to check that your horn still works before you put the front clam back on. The wire for the horn goes through the radiator housing and can be quite easily dislodged when lifting it up. I only found out when mine failed its MOT just on the horn not working :(

#33 Rickwoo118

Rickwoo118

    Scary Internerd

  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 5,800 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Stamford

Posted 12 September 2012 - 11:22 AM

Great guide. Will use it when my radiator needs changing.




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users