41 replies to this topic

[alanoo]

Whats the spec on the Schricks?

Intake : 252° / 116° peak @ 12,00mm lift (0,25 @ TDC)
Exh : 248 / 103° peak @ 12,00mm lift (1 @ TDC)

[minime]

my dbilas ones are inlet 256/115@12 exh 248/105@12

[slindborg]

hmm interesting, those cams "peak" about 10degrees later than most peak specs tend to stick to... wonder why that is.

[speedster]

How come nobody quotes the lobe seperation angle? I'm liking those dbilas cams. minime do you have dyno figures?

Edited by speedster, 11 June 2007 - 02:58 PM.

[markv]

The hotest I've got on the list so far are from kentcams:

EC2006, duration 314 degrees..

Now THAT should be interesting on throttlebodies

Others are on:

http://intranet/~mar...dster/cams.html

Mark

[speedster]

We've got two prepped race heads ready go with Schricks in at the moment, one is due for the TB car. Looking for a longer duration and lift cam at the moment for the race cars but the numbers we're looking at wouldn't really suit for a road car package so I'd still recommend the Schricks.

I'll take the second head and we can compare a single large TB to the iTB's

Edited by speedster, 11 June 2007 - 04:56 PM.

[dude]

The hotest I've got on the list so far are from kentcams:

EC2006, duration 314 degrees..

Now THAT should be interesting on throttlebodies

Mark

These cams are not for "our" Ecotec (Z22SE). It´s for the older engine with cambelt.

[speedster]

I reckon anything in the 300's would be too severe for road use... I'm thinking between 255-270 with 30 to 55 degrees of overlap.

[markv]

The hotest I've got on the list so far are from kentcams:

EC2006, duration 314 degrees..

Now THAT should be interesting on throttlebodies

Mark

These cams are not for "our" Ecotec (Z22SE). It´s for the older engine with cambelt.

Ah, drats

Thanks for the heads up! I'll update my list

Mark

[slindborg]

any cam spec that lists its peak lift point for both cams will alow you to "roughly" estimate the valve overlap if you draw a rough polar plot using all info available from the specs.

[alanoo]

1.2mm lift @ tdc is ncie and safe to not need piston work.

Just a bump on that

How can you be so sure about that ? I just cancelled an order on Wossner 11:1 pistons because I was afraid of that kind of issues and was unable to find any information about the space available

[slindborg]

put it this way, a cam that i would class as lairy would ahve about 4mm of lift at TDC, which would defiantely interfere with the pistons. 1.2mm is nothing, bet its barely more than std, but probably has a more agressive ramp rate to increase the lift and effective duration...

[Anarchy]

What do new cams do? How would the car feel different? Is this this quite far down the list of mods people might normally do? So many questions but found the topic interesting but had no clue what effect they have?

[slindborg]

increasing the valve opening duration and or lift means that the engine can potentially inhale more air per stroke than a smaller setup. This means that with more air, more fuel can be burtn and this will give more torque. The mild drawback is that with the increased breathing capacity, the RPM that peak power occurs at moves up the rev range. Also its possible with relly relly lairy cams that Idle stability is compromised... although I would envisage less so with the Z22 and tis balancer shafts.

[vocky]

I found the opposite true when I removed the balancer shafts my 2.2 engine the idle was smoother standard cams in the 2.2 are very mild, just 244 degrees

Edited by vocky, 02 July 2007 - 07:30 AM.

[slindborg]

when i said lairy i mean 295deg and upwards...

[vocky]

when i said lairy i mean 295deg and upwards...

don't you mean wild cams

in the states they get problems with the knock sensor with lairy cams

[slindborg]

nope imho life is sedate and fine until about 295-300deg, then its lairy... anything over about 315 is "wild" you guys need to fettle with a 1.6 8v gm engine for a bit lol 300degrees is the norm for cams on those now.

[Baron Von Scubadaddy]

So......... I picked up a new head for my NA today Looks like I need to port it and polish it . What else do I need to add to it to make a straight swap ie cams(which ones),valves springs Can any one recommend a good manual for our engine Cherrs BVSD

[mandarinvx]

There's a decent manual here

Have you bought a bare head I almost bought one, but soon realised it was well over £500 for uprated internals