50 replies to this topic

[dw1]

Plans set mine up slightly softer at the rear. It was a turbo on nitrons (2 clicks softer) (Nitrons have a range of 24 clicks to give a context). I'd have thought the principle would be the same regardless of what shock you run.

[NickB787]

Look at that, it's almost sunny outside now.

I think +10mm on the front would be wise. The splitters looked very low to me. Did the suspension settle any further after the test drive?

Maybe wind the rears back to +10 clicks from softest and adjust from there? The visit to Daventry on Tuesday morning will probably help as well.

Couldn't believe it The weather that is. Need to check the height again and see if they settle and see if there is any movement I'm certain they will settle down V soon. Will try making them harder tomorrow , when I do the tie rods , can't be bothered to do them tonight. Becides due to rain again tomorrow

[pincher]

Did mine today but I think it might be too low as I managed to pull the number plate off twice and scrap the underneath getting off the drive

Here's a pic of the front



It's 605mm to the middle of the wheelarch

Rear;


630mm to the middle of the wheelarch.

Any kindly soul (who may have fitted their yesterday) care to measure their for me?

[NickB787]

I have about the same numbers But my rear wheel doesn't look anywhere near as low as your, wonder why. I'm on T1-R's at the moment. Actually having a closer look it was hard to tell the difference due to the black wheel/ black wheel arch cover.

Edited by NickB777, 29 March 2008 - 06:20 PM.

[james141]

Where are people buying these from? Is it an ebay job?

[MAXR]

Wow! that's low. Mine is 605mm Front & Back but obviously does not go on the road. You may want to stay clear of any cats eyes!!

[NickB787]

Where are people buying these from?

Is it an ebay job?

Clicky

Hear you go , just tell the man what spring rates and wether turbo or NA

[james141]

Where are people buying these from?

Is it an ebay job?

Clicky

Hear you go , just tell the man what spring rates and wether turbo or NA

Thanks Nick

[techieboy]

Well done Pincher. Did you do that yourself? I measured my setup for Nick yesterday and I had 605mm from the ground through the centre cap to the arch on the front and 630mm at the rear. Maybe I drive mine more sensibly on speed bumps because I've yet to lose the plate and only scraped the underside once on one of those nasty sh!tty old sleeping policemen. Looking good, all the same!

[pincher]

Well done Pincher. Did you do that yourself?

I measured my setup for Nick yesterday and I had 605mm from the ground through the centre cap to the arch on the front and 630mm at the rear. Maybe I drive mine more sensibly on speed bumps because I've yet to lose the plate and only scraped the underside once on one of those nasty sh!tty old sleeping policemen.

Looking good, all the same!

Did it with a little help from the chap next door who has a workshop, several jacks, airline and more tools than you could shake a stick at

Fronts were done first and then out for a 'settling' roadtest, which is where I pulled the number plate off twice (but I did have it set quite low )

Rears took no time at all - in fact it took me longer to set the height of one the new ones than it took my mate to get the car jacked up, wheel off and old shock off!

I'll reset the height of the plate and go carefully for a week or two - I think I may end up raising by a bit as I'm quite a heavy unit and those heights were measured without anyone in the car.

I made sure that the alan key hole was visible, so it should make it nice and easy to adjust

BTW - my spring rates are 350 front and 375 rear. Does that sound right?

Edited by pincher, 30 March 2008 - 07:16 AM.

[Arno]

Rear;

I see you have fitted these 'upside down' like the OEM bilsteins with the damper body up and the piston down?

You may want to ask GAZ about that as if these are twin-tube dampers then they should usually be fitted 'right side up' (aka. damper body down, piston up) to work properly. So exactly opposite from the OEM bilstein dampers.

Monotubes like Bilstein, Ohlins and Nitron can be fitted upside-down.

So plase ask GAZ about this..

Bye, Arno.

[siztenboots]

Please don't use the bodywork , especially the clam to take measurements from. The measurements from side to side can be out by a large margin, the bodywork is thrown on at the factory and will be shimmed out to remove manufacturing defects to achieve a reasonable panel gap. Instead please use the ends of the chassis members, not the undertray. Also take a measurement from the platform adjuster to the last thread on the shock as a reference point for future to compare to. Keep notes as you go,

Edited by siztenboots, 30 March 2008 - 08:23 AM.

[mandarinvx]

I see you have fitted these 'upside down' like the OEM bilsteins with the damper body up and the piston down?
You may want to ask GAZ about that as if these are twin-tube dampers then they should usually be fitted 'right side up' (aka. damper body down, piston up) to work properly. So exactly opposite from the OEM bilstein dampers.
Monotubes like Bilstein, Ohlins and Nitron can be fitted upside-down.
So plase ask GAZ about this..
Bye, Arno.

I asked Gaz about this a while ago (after a from an Elise driver who wanted to fit them inverted)

They said they have been designed to fit in that direction, hence should not be fitted in 'normal' orientation

[pincher]

Please don't use the bodywork , especially the clam to take measurements from. The measurements from side to side can be out by a large margin, the bodywork is thrown on at the factory and will be shimmed out to remove manufacturing defects to achieve a reasonable panel gap.

Instead please use the ends of the chassis members, not the undertray. Also take a measurement from the platform adjuster to the last thread on the shock as a reference point for future to compare to.

Keep notes as you go,

Well, I see the words but they aren't making sense to me!

Chassis members? Platform adjuster? Sorry, no idea what you mean!

[mandarinvx]

This is the platform to top of thread measurement:





NB - you'll also have to measure the length of the spring

Edited by mandarinvx, 30 March 2008 - 03:05 PM.

[NickB787]

O Dear just realised I forgot to Lock (alan key) them when I put them on. I am supposed to drive about 30 miles tomorrow morning (0700), wonder if they would move or be ok for the trip?

Edited by NickB777, 31 March 2008 - 09:42 PM.

[mandarinvx]

They should be ok, but best to try leaning in and doing them up (or do you have TDs ) I forgot to do the ones on the front up after adjusting them - drove for about 500 miles before realising (when I adjusted them slightly again)

[NickB787]

They should be ok, but best to try leaning in and doing them up (or do you have TDs )

I forgot to do the ones on the front up after adjusting them - drove for about 500 miles before realising (when I adjusted them slightly again)

Yea TD's I am afraid,Ok will take it easy as it is going for a geo I will let them set them up properly. Thanks Mate

[NickB787]

All sorted , really pleased. Went to Scared Stiff this morning, Steve was great, really helpful and I wish I could remember the name of the chap who did all the work but I can’t sorry. First of all they checked the car as it was, worst alignment they had seen ever!!!!! That was me I as I put the Gaz and tie rods on myself the other night knowing it was going to them. He checked the Spitfire tie rods and said they were ok. Set the ride height and damper settings up, did the geo. Well it’s a different car. I like the Gaz they make the car feel less crunchy and it drives well. I look forward to some track work. Thanks guys

[MAXR]

Good Stuff Nick, You will notice a huge difference on the track now. I hope I can make Castle Coombe on the 28th. I'm also there next Monday.