24 replies to this topic

[tony1]

i was just thinking out loud,then you can set your boost to suit the driving conditions ie track road rain

[ronbot]

i was just thinking out loud,then you can set your boost to suit the driving conditions ie track road rain

How would you adjust the fuelling to suit to stop it running lean?

[tony1]

i was just thinking out loud,then you can set your boost to suit the driving conditions ie track road rain

How would you adjust the fuelling to suit to stop it running lean?

well lets just say you have a stage 3 running 1 bar of boost ,still run the same boost but with the after market controller you then got the option to turn it down say 0.8 or 0.7 so on still very safe and would realy affect the ruuning of the car just maybe abit richer and i am sure a good controller lets say a hks or blitz would hold a better level of boost as well,when i fitted a boost gauge to my car the boost came in at 1.2 bar the dropped off the 0.9 and was abit erratic

Edited by tony1, 11 January 2008 - 07:07 PM.

[Guy182]

not sure the ins and outs but in a word they dont work properly.. the ECU controls the boost. very poorly though in comparison jap cars with boost controllers seem to keep a constant boost figure.. the Z20let boost peaks and then falls..

[markiii]

the stock ecu will fuel against sll levels of boost up to the maximum it's set for, you won't always be on boost so it has too in principle just get a soft wastegate spring so it runs low boost and then run an aftermarket EBC and you can set any level from off up to the maximum it can fuel for shouldn't be rocket science

[tony1]

the stock ecu will fuel against sll levels of boost up to the maximum it's set for, you won't always be on boost so it has too

in principle just get a soft wastegate spring so it runs low boost and then run an aftermarket EBC and you can set any level from off up to the maximum it can fuel for

shouldn't be rocket science

ok well i will be ginni pig then i will fit one and then hook up the wideband lambda and see how it performs

wright off to get a boost controller

Edited by tony1, 11 January 2008 - 07:51 PM.

[ronbot]

the stock ecu will fuel against sll levels of boost up to the maximum it's set for, you won't always be on boost so it has too

in principle just get a soft wastegate spring so it runs low boost and then run an aftermarket EBC and you can set any level from off up to the maximum it can fuel for

shouldn't be rocket science

ok well i will be ginni pig then i will fit one and then hook up the wideband lambda and see how it performs

wright off to get a boost controller

It will be interesting to see the results but I think it will overfuel if you reduce boost which could cause bore washing and driveability issues. I agree electronic boost controllers do control the boost better, and when properly set up you can have a faster rampup than a pnematic system without the overshoot. However, you really need to set them up when the car is mapped to make the most of them.

Good luck

[markiii]

it will have an air fuel MAP that covers from zero boost to whatever it's mapped for, why would it overfuel if it see less boost?

[mcintyc]

I agree, I dont think it will over fuel. Unless I am missing something. I have not long sold a 200sx turbo. I had a manual boost controller fitted and used run the car pretty much standard due to commuting and general driving(fuel consumption) then crank up the boost by 4-5 psi when i was out playing. Never seen any side effects in over a year. Used to check the plugs regulary. It may be different on a rice burner , but just adding my 2p worth.

[siztenboots]

thorney has one on his green turbo, or was in the process or fitting it last year

[Guy182]

prob best to ring up somewhere like courtenays and ask... doesnt the ECU try to look for its target boost though? what if it doesnt see it, will it go into limp home mode? EDIT, quick search on zlet forums: ''If you fit a boost controller, you loose all capacity for the ECU to control the wastegate. This is due to you replacing the factory boost solenoid with the Greddy unit. The Greddy allows you to set 2 boost points, and it is designed to hold those points as best it can. Mr_Astra is 100% correct when he says that you will have a permanent engine light showing. It is possible that the car is in limp mode, however it makes little difference as the factory boost solenoid is not controlling the wastegate, the Greddy unit is. I have been in a car with a Greddy EBC, and it was quick. Mainly in first and second gears. After that, a remapped car is a better choice. '' however that might just be on standard cars as this is there too referring to a standard ecu with controller vs remapped ecu ''We have 2 guys here runing them with good power gains, i ran against one and it kept with mine and im running a remapped ecu. They have the engine's spanner light come up on the dash due to over boosting from standard but having a fuel cut defender means no limp mode etc. ''

Edited by Guy182, 12 January 2008 - 02:23 PM.

[VIX]

i was just thinking out loud,then you can set your boost to suit the driving conditions ie track road rain

Generally my right foot copes with this reasonably well.

[tony1]

ok chaps i fitted it and all seems fine i can ajust the boost from as little as 0.5 bar and the car drove perfect,then turned it up bit by bit i have 4 setting & set it up from 0,5 to 1 bar but i still cant seem to hold a steady boost it seems to hit 1 bar then drop to 0,8 i have to run it up to 1.15 so it could hold 0.9 at 5000 rpm otherwise it drops off,wonder why could be the actuator maybe, no engine lights came on every was ok ,i did leave the original valve conected

Edited by tony1, 13 January 2008 - 10:16 PM.

[Adam M]

sorry, I know I am new here but I know a little about these things. first of all, not sure what courtnay are talking about. if you remap the standard ecu it will still rely on the standard boost cotnrol solenoid and the standard functions in the ecu to control boost. It is likely these aren't too great if the standard car tends to boost spike. Remapping will still do this but the boost targets will be higher. If anything this could make for worse boost control if the parameters in the standard ecu are poorly chosen. An aftermarket boost controller when well set up will hold boost perfectly, which gives the ecu a far easier job of controlling the fuelling and the timing. It doesn't stop you from getting a remap, if anything it should make a remap easier to do since it won't be concerned with boost profile remapping. I can't think of any cars that have full 3d boost control as standard. Perhaps some of the high end vag cars, but without personal experience, I am guessing. This means that the boost targets are not proportional to the throttle position. Boost is normally a function of rpm and sometimes road speed too. This means if a boost target is say 1.0 bar at 4krpm, then if just cruising on the motorway in vacuum, you lightly touch the throttle, the turbo will try to achieve full boost but the throttle opening will mean there is nowhere for that charged air to go. The turbo will surge. Equally if you are cornering on a trailing throttle and modulate your throttle position slightly to control the back end, any movement into boost will see the boost controller trying to achieve the boost target for the rpm, and potentially road speed too. Suddenly you have torque that you may or may not want, but regardless it isn't delivered smoothly. Fitting a normal aftermarket boost controller is likely to make this worse, only because all apart from 1 on the market will do exactly the same thing except that they are better at achieving that boost target than the standard ecu, so you will notice the problem more (assuming they are correctly set up). The only way round this is to fit the only boost controller that proprtionally controls the boost targets as a function of throttle position, and non proportionally (unless you set it up that way) as a function of engine speed. If so, the one you want is an HKS evc 6 (called the 5 in japan for some reason). It is stepper motor controlled, not solenoid. This does not stop you getting a remap as it does nothing for fuelling, and I am sure you could avoid the check engine light by keeping the standard solenoid plugged in but disconnecting the plumbing, or depending on the software, possibly disabling the check engine light coding in the ecu. Please forgive the long post.

[Guy182]

.

first of all, not sure what courtnay are talking about.

since when did courtenay reply on this thread?

did you sell an evc6?

Edited by Guy182, 31 January 2008 - 03:27 PM.

[Thorney]

Its perfectly easy to fit a boost guage to a VXT, we have one on the VXT race car and it allows a myriad more options as regards tuning but needs to be fitted properly. The standard VXT boost controller is a weak point as it is unable to hold boost very well, although this can be addressed via mapping to some extent we've found an aftermarket boost controller also is a benefit.

[Thorney]

If so, the one you want is an HKS evc 6 (called the 5 in japan for some reason). It is stepper motor controlled, not solenoid.

Thats what we have.

Nice summary of how boost controllers work.

[Adam M]

since when did courtenay reply on this thread?

did you sell an evc6?

Doh, my apologies, I misquoted what I read you had written, must remember not to scan read, but trying to learn a new car as quickly as possible to decide if its for me.

I did sell an evc6 a few months back, I bought it and was convinced not to use it, as there were simpler quicker to install options that would meet my needs. I ended up with one of the inferior options I mentioned above (greddy profec B ) and in realising the issues it created (most notably on track) I rebought an evc6. This is sitting behind me in a box on the floor waiting to be installed on my evo to replace the greddy, but if I decide to jump into a vxt, it will be the first mod done to that.

Thorney,

Not sure if you are being sarcastic about my write up, but good to see you have a decent boost controller in there.

I don't think I'd bother with a separate gauge and the HKS does a good job of that.

do you fit knock sensors as a matter of course, or is that just a jap thing?

Some clever bod hacked the ecu in the states so mine flashes its check engine light if the knock count is high. was a £15 donation mod, but much neater than having another aftermarket unit adding mess and weight, not to mention cost.

Edited by Adam M, 31 January 2008 - 04:18 PM.

[Thorney]

since when did courtenay reply on this thread?

did you sell an evc6?

Doh, my apologies, I misquoted what I read you had written, must remember not to scan read, but trying to learn a new car as quickly as possible to decide if its for me.

I did sell an evc6 a few months back, I bought it and was convinced not to use it, as there were simpler quicker to install options that would meet my needs. I ended up with one of the inferior options I mentioned above (greddy profec B ) and in realising the issues it created (most notably on track) I rebought an evc6. This is sitting behind me in a box on the floor waiting to be installed on my evo to replace the greddy, but if I decide to jump into a vxt, it will be the first mod done to that.

Thorney,

Not sure if you are being sarcastic about my write up, but good to see you have a decent boost controller in there.

I don't think I'd bother with a separate gauge and the HKS does a good job of that.

do you fit knock sensors as a matter of course, or is that just a jap thing?

Some clever bod hacked the ecu in the states so mine flashes its check engine light if the knock count is high. was a £15 donation mod, but much neater than having another aftermarket unit adding mess and weight, not to mention cost.

No, no sarcasm at all. We also tried a less sophistaicated controller and whilst it worked fine we thought we might as well go for 3d mapping on the car.

[tony1]

If so, the one you want is an HKS evc 6 (called the 5 in japan for some reason). It is stepper motor controlled, not solenoid.

Thats what we have.

Nice summary of how boost controllers work.

well i fitted the blitz sbc dual solenoid but still cant seem to nail a stable boost it tends to spike all the time ,but when it over boosts it still put the car into
limp mode and the car will not boost at all ,so the ecu can still control the turbo {it feels like it opens the dump valve}no engine check light came on because i did'nt disconnect the factory
controller,i also changed the actuator and still the same

Edited by tony1, 31 January 2008 - 08:47 PM.