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Clam Help! It Can Come Off...


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#1 njc11

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Posted 22 February 2008 - 11:10 PM

Front clam is all released with relevant ease thankfully! thumbsup The only snag i have is with one bolt! The bolt in question is the one you can see when sat in the drivers seat with the door open, its the one below the hinge which holds the clam in at the bottom... Ive got it undone enough to be able to release the clam.. BUT!!! the bugger is spinning!! :angry: Once i have the clam of is there someway of getting to the back of this captive nut to be able to rectify the problem? If not what can i do to resolve this problem!! Any ideas??? Ive finished for the night.. (Just!) but thankfully i will be able to just lift the clam of tomorrow to do the rad and wire in the horn.. Cheers Nick chinky chinky

#2 vocky

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Posted 22 February 2008 - 11:40 PM

you can access the nut from underneath, you need to remove the black plastic sill cover. most owners cut the bolt head off then bond a new nut back on thumbsup

#3 njc11

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Posted 23 February 2008 - 12:14 AM

you can access the nut from underneath, you need to remove the black plastic sill cover.

most owners cut the bolt head off then bond a new nut back on thumbsup


Many thanks for the reply!! thumbsup

The sill cover you mean, is the bit we slide our arse across to sit in the seat? If this is the bit... on the N/A how do you remove?

Wots the best stuff to use then to bond it?? Sicker (sp?) flex / No nails :blink: and roughly how long should i leave it to " go off " you reckon?

Many thanks again!

Cheers

Nick
chinky chinky

#4 njc11

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Posted 23 February 2008 - 09:38 AM

Right ive got the stuff needed to sort the spinning bolt... Just need confirmation of the above,, im guessing im right! :) To remove the sill.. its just 2 screws, and double sided tape?? Might tackle this first so the nut is stuck solid when im ready for putting the clam back on.. Cheers Nick chinky chinky

#5 luna_s

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Posted 23 February 2008 - 10:10 AM

yeah (well mine has 1 screw) - its sharp in there too...

#6 Guy182

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Posted 23 February 2008 - 10:16 AM

lol.. same little fcuker that i had problems with


when i tried removing my sill ages ago it started to look like it was going to crack towards the back as its got some mega strong clue on.. be careful
luckily my rad went and vauxhall had fix it under warranty which meant they had to remove said sill resulting in it snapping clean in half and them replacing it FOC.. lol however they did NOT sort this bolt out and they just puled my clam from under the bolt which scratched it and required a touch up..


when i fit the CC
i had to pull the clam out from the bolt like they did
tried drilling it out but no joy.
then put lots of strips of insulation tape on the body, held the bolt head up with some long nose small molegrips, and got to work with a hacksaw blade! (wrap a rag or tape round one end to form a handle)

Posted Image
Posted Image

found the bottom half on the floor the other day actually and binned it.. its like a threaded disc they just bond to the underside. i couldnt grip it so had to cut through the bolt

Edited by Guy182, 23 February 2008 - 10:19 AM.


#7 njc11

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Posted 23 February 2008 - 10:44 AM

lol.. same little fcuker that i had problems with


when i tried removing my sill ages ago it started to look like it was going to crack towards the back as its got some mega strong clue on.. be careful
luckily my rad went and vauxhall had fix it under warranty which meant they had to remove said sill resulting in it snapping clean in half and them replacing it FOC.. lol however they did NOT sort this bolt out and they just puled my clam from under the bolt which scratched it and required a touch up..


when i fit the CC
i had to pull the clam out from the bolt like they did
tried drilling it out but no joy.
then put lots of strips of insulation tape on the body, held the bolt head up with some long nose small molegrips, and got to work with a hacksaw blade! (wrap a rag or tape round one end to form a handle)

found the bottom half on the floor the other day actually and binned it.. its like a threaded disc they just bond to the underside. i couldnt grip it so had to cut through the bolt


Many thanks for that!! thumbsup

I guess you just bonded a new one underneath then?

Im hopeing that my sill will be fairly easy to take off... if so sounds a pretty straight forward task...

Ive got some big heavy duty cut of disks for my dremel so getting the old bolt removed should be a doddle!!

Im hopeing i have no more probs.. fingers crossed then!

Cheers

Nick
chinky chinky

#8 Guy182

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Posted 23 February 2008 - 10:54 AM

lol.. same little fcuker that i had problems with


when i tried removing my sill ages ago it started to look like it was going to crack towards the back as its got some mega strong clue on.. be careful
luckily my rad went and vauxhall had fix it under warranty which meant they had to remove said sill resulting in it snapping clean in half and them replacing it FOC.. lol however they did NOT sort this bolt out and they just puled my clam from under the bolt which scratched it and required a touch up..


when i fit the CC
i had to pull the clam out from the bolt like they did
tried drilling it out but no joy.
then put lots of strips of insulation tape on the body, held the bolt head up with some long nose small molegrips, and got to work with a hacksaw blade! (wrap a rag or tape round one end to form a handle)

found the bottom half on the floor the other day actually and binned it.. its like a threaded disc they just bond to the underside. i couldnt grip it so had to cut through the bolt


Many thanks for that!! thumbsup

I guess you just bonded a new one underneath then?

Im hopeing that my sill will be fairly easy to take off... if so sounds a pretty straight forward task...

Ive got some big heavy duty cut of disks for my dremel so getting the old bolt removed should be a doddle!!

Im hopeing i have no more probs.. fingers crossed then!

Cheers

Nick
chinky chinky


i havent replaced it yet however i do have a stainless nut bolt and washers.. i will just bolt it and use a spanner underneath through the cubby hole.

#9 njc11

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Posted 23 February 2008 - 11:03 AM

lol.. same little fcuker that i had problems with


when i tried removing my sill ages ago it started to look like it was going to crack towards the back as its got some mega strong clue on.. be careful
luckily my rad went and vauxhall had fix it under warranty which meant they had to remove said sill resulting in it snapping clean in half and them replacing it FOC.. lol however they did NOT sort this bolt out and they just puled my clam from under the bolt which scratched it and required a touch up..


when i fit the CC
i had to pull the clam out from the bolt like they did
tried drilling it out but no joy.
then put lots of strips of insulation tape on the body, held the bolt head up with some long nose small molegrips, and got to work with a hacksaw blade! (wrap a rag or tape round one end to form a handle)

found the bottom half on the floor the other day actually and binned it.. its like a threaded disc they just bond to the underside. i couldnt grip it so had to cut through the bolt


Many thanks for that!! thumbsup

I guess you just bonded a new one underneath then?

Im hopeing that my sill will be fairly easy to take off... if so sounds a pretty straight forward task...

Ive got some big heavy duty cut of disks for my dremel so getting the old bolt removed should be a doddle!!

Im hopeing i have no more probs.. fingers crossed then!

Cheers

Nick
chinky chinky


i havent replaced it yet however i do have a stainless nut bolt and washers.. i will just bolt it and use a spanner underneath through the cubby hole.


I'll see how easy it is to get to, then decide at the time whether to bond it or spanner it, i have nylock nuts etc as well..

Was thinking about bonding it simply because if i ever want to take the clam of again it will be easier / quicker maybe!

Cheers

Nick
chinky chinky

#10 Guy182

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Posted 23 February 2008 - 11:08 AM

I'll see how easy it is to get to, then decide at the time whether to bond it or spanner it, i have nylock nuts etc as well..

Was thinking about bonding it simply because if i ever want to take the clam of again it will be easier / quicker maybe!

Cheers

Nick
chinky chinky


once you have the sill off once, and velcro it back down.. its a 2 minute job to remove it

#11 Winstar

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Posted 23 February 2008 - 11:27 AM

I've had exactly this as well, I ended up using a dremel to cut the domed head off enough to get the calm off I've not replaced it yet but I may just replace with a rawlnut and a M5 bolt, I don't see why there needs to be a M8 as it doesn't really carry any load.

#12 vocky

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Posted 23 February 2008 - 11:28 AM

once the nut is off you can remove the seized bolt, clean out the threads, then bond it back on with no more nails etc, finally apply copper grease to the threads of all the clam bolts thumbsup

#13 Winstar

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Posted 23 February 2008 - 11:35 AM

finally apply copper grease to the threads of all the clam bolts thumbsup


I'd love to say this worked but I did that when I replaced the rad.

A year later when I took it off again a couple of months ago the one above became captive and one of the A pillar ones seized.

#14 luna_s

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Posted 23 February 2008 - 12:30 PM

do what i do, weld a nut to a spreader plate then tigerseal it on thumbsup

#15 SteveA

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Posted 23 February 2008 - 03:14 PM

I put some M6 rawl nuts in which means everything can now be released from the top and there is nothing to rust/glue/stck etc thumbsup

#16 njc11

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Posted 24 February 2008 - 10:50 AM

Rads in :)

No major problems, thank god!! The 3 screws windscreen side of the rad near the master cylinder etc were dead easy to get out, the only 3 which needed cutting were the 3 number plate side of the rad which are easy to get too.

One thing i have to see is one BIG THANK YOU to Liam (l14mha) he called in to help on his way back to chester to give me a lift, well i say give me a lift, he did everything!! i did bugger all!! i was the helping hand!! hes done 2 before so new the script!

He left about 7pm after he bled the system and checked everything was ok...in all i reckon it took him 2hrs!

So thank yo Liam i owe you big time for this... the beers are on me chinky chinky

All i have left to do is sort out the wiring on the new horn then start to put everything back together!!

Also were can i get Rawl Nuts from.. B&Q / Wickes dont do them anymore!! :beat:

Cheers

Nick
chinky chinky

#17 SteveA

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Posted 24 February 2008 - 01:49 PM

Ebay. They are about £1 each.

#18 Winstar

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Posted 24 February 2008 - 03:10 PM

I get mine from a bolt stockist near work for about 50p each.

#19 l14mha

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Posted 24 February 2008 - 08:27 PM

Rads in :)

No major problems, thank god!! The 3 screws windscreen side of the rad near the master cylinder etc were dead easy to get out, the only 3 which needed cutting were the 3 number plate side of the rad which are easy to get too.

One thing i have to see is one BIG THANK YOU to Liam (l14mha) he called in to help on his way back to chester to give me a lift, well i say give me a lift, he did everything!! i did bugger all!! i was the helping hand!! hes done 2 before so new the script!

He left about 7pm after he bled the system and checked everything was ok...in all i reckon it took him 2hrs!

So thank yo Liam i owe you big time for this... the beers are on me chinky chinky

All i have left to do is sort out the wiring on the new horn then start to put everything back together!!

Also were can i get Rawl Nuts from.. B&Q / Wickes dont do them anymore!! :beat:

Cheers

Nick
chinky chinky


nick,

was good to meet you and to be of some help...

glad we got it in and bled the water system through.

good luck getting the clam back on, i would have stayed and finished the job off, but i had pre-arranged plans with some old uni mates.

i'll give you a bell when i'm next up in manc.


liam chinky chinky

#20 njc11

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Posted 25 February 2008 - 11:17 AM

Rads in :)

No major problems, thank god!! The 3 screws windscreen side of the rad near the master cylinder etc were dead easy to get out, the only 3 which needed cutting were the 3 number plate side of the rad which are easy to get too.

One thing i have to see is one BIG THANK YOU to Liam (l14mha) he called in to help on his way back to chester to give me a lift, well i say give me a lift, he did everything!! i did bugger all!! i was the helping hand!! hes done 2 before so new the script!

He left about 7pm after he bled the system and checked everything was ok...in all i reckon it took him 2hrs!

So thank yo Liam i owe you big time for this... the beers are on me chinky chinky

All i have left to do is sort out the wiring on the new horn then start to put everything back together!!

Also were can i get Rawl Nuts from.. B&Q / Wickes dont do them anymore!! :beat:

Cheers

Nick
chinky chinky


nick,

was good to meet you and to be of some help...

glad we got it in and bled the water system through.

good luck getting the clam back on, i would have stayed and finished the job off, but i had pre-arranged plans with some old uni mates.

i'll give you a bell when i'm next up in manc.


liam chinky chinky


No probs mate!

To be of some help!!! You did everything for the rad change!!

I feel like s@#t today.... working all hours / temperatures has fubared me :( ... last night i was freezing with a mega temp, couldnt get warm at all.. am in work today as i cant be arsed going home to bed, because i know i will make myself worse by working on the car! LOL!!

Basically all the rad and rad housing is back on, all stainless fixings are on and copper greased.. the little screw by the the brake servo took me about an hour to get in!! :beat:

Sorted the horn... much better than the standard jobby B)

One thing i couldnt help but notice and commented to Liam, my o.e rad didnt sit on the foam?? (see guy182 pic)

Posted Image

And i have to say this is prob why i struggled getting the little 5mm bolts in as i need to push down on the rad shroud to get it going...

I have the pro alloy rad @ £299... has anyone else with an N/A fitted the same?? as i feel the rad housing is sitting a little high on the crash box.. (see guy182 pic) in the pic below the rad housing sits perfectly on the crash box, on mine now its a couple of mm off the crash box... my concern is the bonnet will sit high?? Ive had a look underneath and the rad is sat perfectly and there is nothing in the way letting it sit lower...

Posted Image

Any ideas folks?

Cheers

Nick chinky chinky




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