23 replies to this topic

[Pidgeon]

Pay someone to do it But if you are really keen.... Both mounts are visible with the rear arch liners removed. The top mounting bolts are easy to access, the bottoms need an 18" extension. I have a 3/8 drive wobble head socket set. A 1/2 drive may get onto the nut but it will be tight. The O/S mount is removed by taking out the three 13mm bolts mounting the engine bracket. I reached these by taking the hose from the top of the intercooler and folding out of the way. They could be accessed (with good 3/8 drive kit) from the top of the engine, but I had the car up too high and went in through the arch. The bolts are threadlocked into place. My O/S mount had no sign of wear or deterioration. If I experience the same symptoms again, I would change the N/S only at first. I suspect the N/S bracket will unbolt and that is the easy way to change the mount. The plethora of wires, cables and the header tank stopped me looking and I levered the old one out. To ease fitting the new one, I cut 6-8mm off the thread at each end of the mount to shorten it. Engine needs to be raised on each side while the mount is changed. Undertray off, support with trolley jack (number two, as number one is holding car up) and blocks of wood.

[cheeky_chops]

what made you think they were shot? Mine seems to make the odd "ticking" noise on hard acceleration. No GB grating though...

[Pidgeon]

Not quite the 'angle grinder' noise I have seen mentioned, more like a broad toothed hacksaw being drawn through sheet. Only happened in 'emergency start' situations but was loud and worrying when it did. I expected the mounts would fall apart, as I have read happens on N/A's, but all I could see was cracking on the N/S mount. HTH

[cheeky_chops]

Thankyou sir

[SteveA]

As long as you do one mount at a time there is no need to support the engine (there are another 3 holding it in place.)

[Winstar]

As long as you do one mount at a time there is no need to support the engine (there are another 3 holding it in place.)

on the NA you have to support the engine when dooing the off side mount other wise it drops and you can't get the bolts back in

[robbosvx]

I changed both side mounts on my turbo the other night (in snow and dark at the end!). I needed to support the engine slightly to release the drivers side mount. This mount was totally sheared in half. I had the noise for a while but almost thought it was speaker interference. It was later that the clunking and knocking began. Pretty easy to fit. Just hard doing the simple things like getting the plastic rivets back into the arch liners. Enjoy

[Pidgeon]

As long as you do one mount at a time there is no need to support the engine (there are another 3 holding it in place.)

Thanks for that. I did wonder why the new N/S mount was still loose after I had lowered the engine

[siztenboots]

whats the torque on the bolts , is there a VXT fitting guide, can only see the NA one

[Pidgeon]

They're engine mounts, pull the spanner hard then pull a little harder to tighten. Torque wrench is reserved for engine jobs.

[slindborg]

They're engine mounts, pull the spanner hard then pull a little harder to tighten.

Torque wrench is reserved for engine jobs.

go slow and you can feel when the torque is right

[Adam_B]

I did mine recently, didnt think it was too bad a job. I deffo wouldnt pay someone to do it!

[Richard Hoogeveen]

Hi, Yesterday i noticed some oil under car, after removing the wheel and the arch liner on the left side, i saw that the engine mount was dripping oil. I never thought that the engine mount were filled with hydraulic oil.. It's nice to see that this job can be done by yourself. I needed to know if i had to support the engine when removing the engine mounts. Do you replace the enginemounts both or wait until the other one fails ? bye Richard

[goodeg]

I replaced both as if ones gone chances are the other won't be far behind. They don't take too long to do.

[MrSimba]

I put the 'uprated' Powerflex mount on the front mount yesterday and after a drive this morning recon its one of best 'cheap' (£20) mods you can do to the car More throttle response, car feels more alive, a little more vibration but not much - less than I expected, and 2nd gear shifts above 5k greatly improved! Well worth the effort it tkaes longer to take the undertrays off and put them back on again than to do the fit mount!

[goodeg]

Think I'll have to get one of them as I think the engine moves quite a bit under hard acceleration. Is the general consensus just to put the uprated bush in the front and leave the rear standard?

[MrSimba]

Think I'll have to get one of them as I think the engine moves quite a bit under hard acceleration. Is the general consensus just to put the uprated bush in the front and leave the rear standard?

Thats what Courtenays said.

[Whiteboy]

Has anybody got the picture instalation guide?

[slindborg]

Has anybody got the picture instalation guide?

imho you REALLY dont need it... the description is accurate enough for even a beginner spanner moneky

[VXTyrant]

I put the 'uprated' Powerflex mount on the front mount yesterday and after a drive this morning recon its one of best 'cheap' (£20) mods you can do to the car

More throttle response, car feels more alive, a little more vibration but not much - less than I expected, and 2nd gear shifts above 5k greatly improved!

Well worth the effort it tkaes longer to take the undertrays off and put them back on again than to do the fit mount!

Where did you buy them from Simba?