Engine Mount Offside N/a Guide
#1
Posted 17 June 2008 - 11:49 PM
.top tip, replace them in pairs. i didnt and the offside one failed 1000 miles after the nearside one.
tools you will require!
15mm slim socket
15mm deep socket
15mm spanner
15mm ratchet spanner
jack
bottle jack (£10)
phillips screwdriver
extension bars
flat small piece of wood to distribute jack force
time:30 mins-90mins depending on stalling factors (stiff bolts etc ) and skill level.
1) jack up car and remove o/s/r wheel.
2) using your Phillips screwdriver remove the arch lining..this will greet you....
identify the engine mount:
,
3) using a bottle jack with a block of wood on to spread the force, slowly jack under the engine sump. I did this leaving the undertray on. there was enough flex in the under tray for it to touch the engine and support it without damaging it. however the engine is well supported on the other 3 mounts.
4)looking at the engine mount, it is bolted in to place by 2 15mm nuts. Remove the top nut using your socket/ratchet. This one is easy. remove the lower nut by fixing your extension bars together and use the deep 15mm socket.The lower one is usually stiff and may require a breaker bar.
The mount is now loosened and ready for the next phase.
Now the job becomes Tough and a real pain.
5) Remove the engine mount to engine bracket.. The bracket is held in place by 3, 15mm bolts. looking in to the wheel arch tackle the right hand lone 15mm bolt first. use you socket and extension bar on this one, as it will be stiff.
now move on to the left hand bracket bolts. they are 2. both of which are fairly inaccessible. Loosen the lower bolt of the 2 first. Working from underneath the arch and looking up at the lower bolt, use a slim 15mm socket and ratchet. Loosen as much as you can then finish off with ratchet spanner as room is tight. The upperbolt can only be tackled with a 15mm spanner. The bolts are extremely tight and space limited, so getting a long spanner to fit in is a no no. I had to tap the spanner with a hammer to "crack" the nut off as it was so tight. I wouldnt recommend using poor quality spanners and use this method as it will round the bolt head. you may be lucky and have slack bolts..but mine were extremely stiff.
2 pics to illustrate:
6) once you have suitably bandaged up your scuffed hands from phase 5, replace the mount with your new one, and bolt the bracket back on to the engine block. let down your bottle jack and then apply the 15mm nuts to the mount. replace arch ,wheel and go and test the car out...
#2
Posted 18 June 2008 - 04:28 AM
#3
Posted 18 June 2008 - 07:14 AM
#4
Posted 18 June 2008 - 07:46 AM
The trick with this little bstard is to use a crow bar under the cam chain tensioner bolt and over the spanner then use it as a lever to crack the bolt off.
#5
Posted 18 June 2008 - 04:57 PM
I find that the fatter bottle jack handle slips over a 3/8's drive ratchet to give more leverage for the 3* 15mm bolts holding the mount braket onto the engine
Exactly what i used!!
Real pita the offside mount!
#6
Posted 18 June 2008 - 05:04 PM
#7
Posted 18 June 2008 - 05:16 PM
#8
Posted 07 August 2010 - 04:17 PM
#9
Posted 18 July 2013 - 11:30 AM
This thread just helped me loads but just a warning to those amateur mechanics like me:
As I was undoing the bottom 15mm bold from the engine mount bracket (the longer of the two on the left) with my socket set, I backed it out onto the chassis trapping the socket ratchet. It wouldn't come out further and I couldn't switch the ratchet the opposite direction as it was trapped. After much swearing I jacked the engine up further got a thick flat piece of metal and had to hammer the socket sideways until it popped off. Panic over.
Good job I realised what was happening before another couple of ratchet turns.
USE SHALLOW SPANNERS!
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