20 replies to this topic

[rickyzero]

I had the drivers seat out yesterday to give the interior a proper clean. I was stretching to tighten a screw when putting the seat back, accidentally leaned on the sill with my knee and heard a large CRACK. The drivers side sill now has a huge crack in the fiberglass. To say i'm rather pi**ed is an understatement! I'm sure one of these carbon fiber sill protectors would cover it but should I treat the damage first before sticking it over? Because it's a part of the car you can only see when the door is open I may have a go at repairing it as i'm not too fond of the look of these sill protectors. Does anyone have any advice on repairing cracks in the body work? Many thanks in advance!

[mandarinvx]

Unless you're used to working with fibreglass I'd take it to a specialist (wont be cheap tho )

[The Batman]

its one of those easy things if you know how to do it!

[rickyzero]

Yes I'm trying to avoid expense here! I'll probably end up buying sill protectors but should maybe seal the crack first as i wouldn't want moisture getting in to the wing. If I try repairing it I may wish I'd never started it. How hard can sanding back the crack, strengthening with fibreglass, filling, painting and polishing really be?!

[The Batman]

should be alright, at least if you make a mistake then sand it back and start again!

[FLD]

What sort of crack are we talking about? Is it like a hairline crack, is there any deformation or is it a crack with fibres poking out of it? Have you got a pic? Should be easy enough if you have the patience for it.

[rickyzero]

What sort of crack are we talking about? Is it like a hairline crack, is there any deformation or is it a crack with fibres poking out of it? Have you got a pic? Should be easy enough if you have the patience for it.

I'll get a picture up as soon as I can. It's a proper crack. After it happened one side of the crack lifted over the other but i managed to push it down so it sits pretty much flush again. No fibres are poking out but the paint is flaking slightly. Try to imagine a cracked Frisbee and you'll get the idea!

[FLD]

You should repair this before sticking anything over the top as movement in the crack will break off the edges and it will crumble a touch. The crack will also propogate a little. Fortunately fibreglass is relatively easy to use and very easy to fix. A bit of time and effort should sort it so dont fret. I'll give you as much detailed advice as I can when I see a pic (so its relevant advice). Where about are you?

[rickyzero]

You should repair this before sticking anything over the top as movement in the crack will break off the edges and it will crumble a touch. The crack will also propogate a little. Fortunately fibreglass is relatively easy to use and very easy to fix. A bit of time and effort should sort it so dont fret. I'll give you as much detailed advice as I can when I see a pic (so its relevant advice). Where about are you?

Thanks for that, i'm in Glasgow. I've taken the best pic possible as it's dark and wet.

[attachment=20208:Crack_in_sill.jpg]

[lordb]

You should repair this before sticking anything over the top as movement in the crack will break off the edges and it will crumble a touch. The crack will also propogate a little. Fortunately fibreglass is relatively easy to use and very easy to fix. A bit of time and effort should sort it so dont fret. I'll give you as much detailed advice as I can when I see a pic (so its relevant advice). Where about are you?

First thing I would do is drill two small holes one at each end of the crack - this will stop it spreading (likely to happen if the car is under load)
Secondly I wouldnt bother with a fibre glass repair at all - just buy yourself a set of carbon sill protectors and epoxy resin that into place, not sparing the epoxy in the area of the crack. Should be as strong at before and watertight. Did the same on mine and repaired it in the this way, looks better now than it did before, IMHO.

Of course if the cf sill plates arent wide enought to cover the crack then thats a different matter.

Rich

[MaDFreeBiRD]

thats unfortunate mate i would go for the drill and sill protector option

[Simply the Best]

That's a shame Are the sill protectors wide enough to cover the crack? The only problem with repairing it yourself would be the PITA of getting the sill off to fix it front and back ... at least, I'm presuming that would need to be done ... best of luck with it, let us know what you decide to do

[rickyzero]

Yes I suppose dealing with the crack and covering it is the easiest thing to do, but the crack is huge and sill protectors may not cover it. No option of taking the sill off as the entire side of the car is bonded to the chassis.

[FLD]

"First thing I would do is drill two small holes one at each end of the crack - this will stop it spreading (likely to happen if the car is under load)"

Absolutely!

Personally I'd then use some very low viscosity epoxy resin on the crack (SP systems do one but you'd have to investigate as I cant remember which one). Just trickle a little on the crack, then flex it very slightly to draw it into the crack by capilliary action. Make sure it finishes flat so it sets back all level.

If after this you dont want to add sill protectors you can vee out the crack slightly (top gel coat only, dont go through the cloth) taking out all the loose chips in the top. and fill it with resin and some short, loose fibres. Aim to be just under the surface then fill with filler to level. Sand it back and paint. A crack like that should set back fine with the low viscosity resin with little reinforcement required. This will require a lot more work but will be back as it was. Keep us posted and we'll try our best to help.

[rickyzero]

Thanks for all the advice chaps. It's going to be a couple of weeks at least before I have to time to tackle it but I'll keep you updated.

[rickyzero]

"[i]
If after this you dont want to add sill protectors you can vee out the crack slightly (top gel coat only, dont go through the cloth) taking out all the loose chips in the top. and fill it with resin and some short, loose fibres. Aim to be just under the surface then fill with filler to level. Sand it back and paint. A crack like that should set back fine with the low viscosity resin with little reinforcement required. This will require a lot more work but will be back as it was. Keep us posted and we'll try our best to help.

FLD, do you think this would do the trick?

http://marinestore.c...e-gelcoat-epoxy

Edited by rickyzero, 16 September 2008 - 06:21 PM.

[reedbradshaw]

the car i am looking to purchase has this also! about the same as the pic ! can it be covered by a sill cover, has any one got any pics of sill covers so i can see if they are wide enough

[FLD]

"[i]
If after this you dont want to add sill protectors you can vee out the crack slightly (top gel coat only, dont go through the cloth) taking out all the loose chips in the top. and fill it with resin and some short, loose fibres. Aim to be just under the surface then fill with filler to level. Sand it back and paint. A crack like that should set back fine with the low viscosity resin with little reinforcement required. This will require a lot more work but will be back as it was. Keep us posted and we'll try our best to help.

FLD, do you think this would do the trick?

http://marinestore.c...e-gelcoat-epoxy

It would but thats absolute filth in composite terms. If you want to try bridging it send me your address by pm or email. I'll send you some good stuff

[theotherjonnymac]

I was quoted £400 by Vauxhall on a VX that I was looking at a few years ago. Suspect that it could be done more cheaply.

[chrisculpt]

hard luck on that , they sills do seem rather fragile... I have just finished some repairs to front clam and letting in a section around the rear wheel arch..(I do work with grp but thought I'd chip in my two peneth, for what it's worth) - the method I favoured - so it doesn't re - crack under stress, was to carefully grind/sand an area either side of the crack,maybe 10mm either side, running the full length and around the ends, penetrating into the gel coat ( effectively cutting a 20mm wide rebate, maybe 1- 1.5mm deep ( carefull not to go through! - but this gives a good keyand room for mat - which is really needed for strength) - i used a Black n deck power file to make the 'groove' - the belt is a good width and you can turn the speed down so you can be fairly precise).. then cut a thin strip of grp matt to fit ( i used 300 gsm so its nice and thin), wet out the rebate with resin, ( mask off surrounding area first!), wet out he mat and apply, carefully stippling into the rebate with a small bruch - and try to keep it all below the required finish level. Then fill to the final level with body filler, sand with 400 - 600 wet n dry... Here is a pic, you can just see the method described on one or two areas hope this is some help, good luck