
Under-tray Spacers
#21
Posted 12 August 2009 - 11:32 AM
#22
Posted 12 August 2009 - 02:07 PM

#23
Posted 12 August 2009 - 02:07 PM


#24
Posted 12 August 2009 - 02:13 PM
I am shocked and flabberghasted that MaxR still has his heater installed !
there is NO heater in Max's vx

#25
Posted 12 August 2009 - 09:26 PM
I am shocked and flabberghasted that MaxR still has his heater installed !
there is NO heater in Max's vx
Sorry

#26
Posted 12 August 2009 - 10:01 PM

#27
Posted 18 August 2009 - 08:48 AM

Edited by NickB777, 18 August 2009 - 09:04 AM.
#28
Posted 18 August 2009 - 10:52 AM

#29
Posted 18 August 2009 - 11:31 AM
Put the rubber spacers on, they are only 25mm but they seem fine. Now I can remove the undertray and work on the car and leave the spacers in position, a lot quicker also only cost �2.00 each
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[attachment=21338:CIMG2101.JPG]
anymore pictures?
#30
Posted 18 August 2009 - 03:34 PM
I must have missed the bit about rubber spacers. I presume they won't melt, it does get kinda hot down there ...Put the rubber spacers on

#31
Posted 18 August 2009 - 04:47 PM
#32
Posted 18 August 2009 - 04:54 PM

I used covered nuts to stop the threads rusting

Edited by NickB777, 18 August 2009 - 05:00 PM.
#33
Posted 18 August 2009 - 05:09 PM
I only mention the heat as I popped out earlier for about 30 mins and when I got back I went to check the diffuser was tight and it was quite hot.
Quick release fasteners for the undertrays also look cunning!
http://www.vx220.org...ers-t78942.html

Edited by VIX, 18 August 2009 - 05:10 PM.
#34
Posted 18 August 2009 - 05:16 PM
Look good. So they bolt into the clam and the diffuser bolts into the spacers. Cunning ...
I only mention the heat as I popped out earlier for about 30 mins and when I got back I went to check the diffuser was tight and it was quite hot.
Quick release fasteners for the undertrays also look cunning!
http://www.vx220.org...ers-t78942.html
I did think about these also wing nuts, maybe if I can get some covered wing nut, don't know if they do them.
One thing about this method of locking is if I want more airflow I just go and get a bigger spacer and don't pay £££. I also think I probably don't need the 2 rear ones only the 5 which lock to the clam directly this would make certain the 4 air holes in the rear of the clam are free from any obstruction, as I have one covered on each side at the moment.
I have used it already and not noticed any heat issues I will check it out next time I go for a run
#35
Posted 18 August 2009 - 05:39 PM


#36
Posted 19 August 2009 - 09:50 AM
#37
Posted 19 August 2009 - 09:58 AM
[attachment=21338:CIMG2101.JPG]
look like they are bended and fixed the original way am i right nick
hey we go james
#38
Posted 19 August 2009 - 10:01 AM
cut up some threaded rod same as MMG screws supplied, to 100mm sections, plus some lock nuts two per stud, washers and wing nuts. Makes getting diffuser on really easy as the studs are already in position and you can do it one handed.
I have replaced the subframe bolts with longer and remove the captive nut , and converted it to a stud fixing, again with lock nuts for adjustment

lowered to 60mm

#39
Posted 20 April 2010 - 11:01 AM
#40
Posted 20 April 2010 - 11:04 AM
update on my solution to spacing the diffuser
don't bother with the ones I used they all failed the metal and rubber sections come apart,
have to look at some other way, maybe Sizetenboots method


in france they are flying in special route at the moment
a real nightmare
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