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Supercharger Fuel Consumption


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#1 MartinS

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Posted 23 September 2009 - 07:17 AM

I've been asked a few times how much fuel the sc drinks and to be honest never knew (or cared) much, but went to Oulton park this week and had a chance to notice (through boredom on the way and out of necessity on track, as it seemed to go so fast). On the way there, we did 260 miles (60 miles of A and B roads and 200 miles of quick but constant motorway speeds), 35 mpg On track, 15 mpg. In normal use, I'm afraid I still dont really know, but am guessing around 25. Martin s

Edited by MartinS, 23 September 2009 - 07:23 AM.


#2 siztenboots

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Posted 23 September 2009 - 08:02 AM

plus about the same oil consumption ;)

#3 techieboy

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Posted 23 September 2009 - 08:15 AM

plus about the same oil consumption ;)


Rubbish. Mine doesn't seem to be consuming any oil, these days. :blink:
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#4 siztenboots

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Posted 23 September 2009 - 08:17 AM

plus about the same oil consumption ;)


Rubbish. Mine doesn't seem to be consuming any oil, these days. :blink:


is that a new bottom end, everything else intact crank up the same? presume you will put on new rings

#5 techieboy

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Posted 23 September 2009 - 08:40 AM

is that a new bottom end, everything else intact crank up the same? presume you will put on new rings


The pile on the right is part of the old engine cleaned up. Left foreground is a secondhand block from a timing chain failure. Cylinder block in the background is my knackered one - the bores were not right. Two of them felt a little oval and all were glazed. Pistons crowns were covered in all sorts of muck so guess I was overfuelling from the start and had borewash which led to the excessive oil consumption. Which problem came first, I don't know. Thankfully, the ported head and top end was fine.

New rebored block (original can't be re-rebored and re-lining costs 10 times as much as a secondhand block)
New crank (original might be okay but has some wear where the bearings are and might be slightly oval)
New rods (only one had blued but can't get individual Eagle rods)
New forged pistons (all were showing some strange wear around the top ringland and crown)
New oil pump gears
plus new bearings, new timing chain, new balancer shaft chain and all the other bits and pieces.

All of the noise was down to one spun bearing which was wafer thin by the time we stripped the engine. Still managed to drain over 4 litres of oil from the engine, so it hadn't run that low.

Quite an expensive track evening but I guess if you're going to kill one, on track at Silverstone is the way to do it. :D

#6 siztenboots

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Posted 23 September 2009 - 09:22 AM

is that a new bottom end, everything else intact crank up the same? presume you will put on new rings


The pile on the right is part of the old engine cleaned up. Left foreground is a secondhand block from a timing chain failure. Cylinder block in the background is my knackered one - the bores were not right. Two of them felt a little oval and all were glazed. Pistons crowns were covered in all sorts of muck so guess I was overfuelling from the start and had borewash which led to the excessive oil consumption. Which problem came first, I don't know. Thankfully, the ported head and top end was fine.

New rebored block (original can't be re-rebored and re-lining costs 10 times as much as a secondhand block)
New crank (original might be okay but has some wear where the bearings are and might be slightly oval)
New rods (only one had blued but can't get individual Eagle rods)
New forged pistons (all were showing some strange wear around the top ringland and crown)
New oil pump gears
plus new bearings, new timing chain, new balancer shaft chain and all the other bits and pieces.

All of the noise was down to one spun bearing which was wafer thin by the time we stripped the engine. Still managed to drain over 4 litres of oil from the engine, so it hadn't run that low.

Quite an expensive track evening but I guess if you're going to kill one, on track at Silverstone is the way to do it. :D


bloody hell, major rebuild

#7 cheeky_chops

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Posted 23 September 2009 - 09:27 AM

bet your flexible friend will be realing from that lot! OUCH!

#8 Duncan VXR

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Posted 23 September 2009 - 09:48 AM

I love the look of lots of engine bits about to get put together :P Fuel consumption sound good I get about 30mpg at best and 6mpg on track :D

#9 techieboy

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Posted 23 September 2009 - 09:48 AM

bloody hell, major rebuild

Yep. The p!sser is the original strengthened low compression re-build only happened in May and the engine had only done 2500 miles on it. It had been using excessive oil (and running rich until Courtenays did some additional mapping in July) from that point on. It really was more of a diesel VX with the amount of oil it was burning along with the petrol. So, the plan was to strip it down again this month/next anyway to see what the problem was. It felt down on power at Bedford the week before Silverstone and I knew I was risking it. Chances are, even if it hadn't spun the bearing at Silverstone, most of this work would still be required. Would probably have got away with not needing another set of new rods but would probably have needed new pistons, rings and a new cylinder block. C'est la vie!

bet your flexible friend will be realing from that lot! OUCH!

I'm pretty sure there won't be much flex left and not sure it'll consider me much of a friend. :wacko:

Still, I look at it as an opportunity to sneak a few more cheeky little mods in there at the same time. Would be kind of rude not to, whilst it's all in pieces. :lol:

#10 MartinS

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Posted 23 September 2009 - 10:04 AM

my car used about 100 ml of oil over the 660 miles done (inc 140 on track). My main consumption lately has been coolant but solved that before Oulton (was leaking radiator bleed valve). Martin s

#11 alanoo

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Posted 23 September 2009 - 12:34 PM

is that a new bottom end, everything else intact crank up the same? presume you will put on new rings


The pile on the right is part of the old engine cleaned up. Left foreground is a secondhand block from a timing chain failure. Cylinder block in the background is my knackered one - the bores were not right. Two of them felt a little oval and all were glazed. Pistons crowns were covered in all sorts of muck so guess I was overfuelling from the start and had borewash which led to the excessive oil consumption. Which problem came first, I don't know. Thankfully, the ported head and top end was fine.



Interested in the block and maybe crank for R&D purposes :groupjump:

#12 techieboy

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Posted 23 September 2009 - 12:41 PM

Interested in the block and maybe crank for R&D purposes :groupjump:

You're welcome to both but no idea how viable shipping to France is and it'll be a while before the car is ready for some more French trackdays. :blink:

#13 FLD

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Posted 23 September 2009 - 01:15 PM

Mine did in excess of 60mpg with me driving like an old lady on the way to CS for pulley alignment and mapping. Needless to say I've never seenthat figure since! I haven't had any oil loss yet though but the motor is only about 3.5k old.

#14 NickB787

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Posted 23 September 2009 - 05:25 PM

I used to get about 37-38mpg with the M62 but now only about 31mpg, however worth it IMHO for the extra :D factor

#15 southpaw

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Posted 23 September 2009 - 05:34 PM

On track, 15 mpg.


I'd imagined it was into single figures so that's :)

:( about your engine Techie

#16 The Batman

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Posted 23 September 2009 - 06:17 PM

mine is over fueling... so on track i did about 60miles for a full tank :blink: :lol:

Edited by joe_589, 23 September 2009 - 06:18 PM.


#17 Jameshs

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Posted 24 September 2009 - 07:32 AM

mine is over fueling... so on track i did about 60miles for a full tank :blink: :lol:



Bore wash :borg:

#18 JG

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Posted 24 September 2009 - 09:59 AM

No supercharger and 90miles to a tank on the french autoroute (dodgy lamdba), so i would say thats pretty good.

#19 spuk87

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Posted 25 September 2009 - 11:38 AM

Mine did in excess of 60mpg with me driving like an old lady on the way to CS for pulley alignment and mapping. Needless to say I've never seenthat figure since! I haven't had any oil loss yet though but the motor is only about 3.5k old.

60mpg!? Serious!?

#20 siztenboots

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Posted 18 November 2010 - 12:11 PM

came across Seloc some useful info about a product for glazed bores This product really does seem to be 'secret' - practically nothing about it on the net and no technical information. But then contact anyone selling Millers stuff and they know all about it... Millers state that running in new rings on semi or full synthetic is extremely likely to result in glazed bores - I of course went straight to top Quality Synthetic after 500 miles and after my 6 hour cruise down the motorway... Explains a lot. I've now got a copy of the Millers technical sheet and reproduce the useage instructions below for information. In effect the glaze buster strips the glaze off and then you restart the running in process as if the rings had just been fitted - I will report back when I've tried it, but it seems logical, isn't an abrasive and made by a reputable firm specialising in oil so here's hoping... It's also not expensive (about £15 for 5 ltr)... Instructions for the use of Millers Liquid Glaze Bust It is virtually impossible to run in an engine on modern semi or full synthetic engine oils. Millers Oils produces specific running in oils to overcome this situation. In the event that an engine has been rebuilt and the running in process has not been satisfactorily achieved, it is possible to rectify the situation with the use of Millers Liquid Glaze Bust. 1. Drain the engine oil, but do not change the filter. 2. Refill sump with Liquid Glaze Bust to minimum level on dipstick. Ensure vehicle is on level ground, as this is critical. 3. Start engine and idle for 2/3 minutes. 4. Stop engine and refill to minimum level on dipstick. 5. Drive for 50 to 75 miles with engine under maximum load. Ideal situation is pulling hard in second or third gear up a hill at the peak of the torque curve. 6. Check oil level and refill to minimum level. You should not be worried to see considerable oil consumption. 7. Run as above for a further 25 miles. 8. Check oil level and refill. 9. Repeat the process up to a maximum of 200 miles OR until oil consumption reduces. 10. Drain and refill with Millers Classic Running In Oil 30. 11. Run as para 5 for a further 500 miles. 12. Drain and refill with Millers engine oil to the specification of your vehicle. 13. Replace oil filter. 14. Check oil level and fill to maximum mark.




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