13 replies to this topic

[John Boy]

Changes all four brake hoses for braided ones today, and bled all four courners using the ezibleed system, and all seemed good. However, when depressing the brake pedal, it still goes to the floor, and bubbling can be seen in the brake fluid resevoir. Could there still be air in the system, or do i need to bleed the clutch (where is it?), could there be air in the abs or is the clutch cylinder buggered? Any help greatly appreciated. John

[Zoobeef]

Right, you'll need to turn the front calipers upside down, bleed them then bleed again the right way up after. If they still feel spongy after this then you need to find some gravel and lock the front wheels up to activate the abs a couple of time. Obviously be very careful. Then bleed again all round turning the fronts upside down again. You may need to do it a few times. You may as well bleed the clutch while your doing the rest but it wont effect the brakes

[John Boy]

Right, you'll need to turn the front calipers upside down, bleed them then bleed again the right way up after. If they still feel spongy after this then you need to find some gravel and lock the front wheels up to activate the abs a couple of time. Obviously be very careful. Then bleed again all round turning the fronts upside down again. You may need to do it a few times. You may as well bleed the clutch while your doing the rest but it wont effect the brakes

Looks like i wont be getting it done tonight! Couple of questions:

Can I be certain the clutch does not have air in it, ie is there a non-return valve on its system?
How can I be sure the master cylinder is in good shape?

Cheers

[Zoobeef]

there wont be a valve but as the resevior is at the top the air wont go down into the clutch pipes on there own. You can check just by seeing if the clutch works. Its possible about the master cylinder but id eiminate the chance of it being air. the brakes are notoriously crap to bleed so its best to not let air get in at all when changing fluid. Obviously in your case it cannot be avoided

[John Boy]

there wont be a valve but as the resevior is at the top the air wont go down into the clutch pipes on there own. You can check just by seeing if the clutch works.

Its possible about the master cylinder but id eiminate the chance of it being air. the brakes are notoriously crap to bleed so its best to not let air get in at all when changing fluid. Obviously in your case it cannot be avoided

Yea, crap to bleed is an understatement if the procedure you outlined is what is usually done. At least I have tomorrow to do it. Bloody frustrating as the lines went on pretty well. Fiddly to do, but no major dramas. Rears were a positive pleasure!

Down the motor factors for some more brake fluid tomorrow morning and then get rotating!

Cheers ZB.

[Crazyfrog (Fab)]

need to do mine i guest joe and vocky will be there to advise me
what are the procedure

[techieboy]

SELOC Tech Wiki

[John Boy]

SELOC Tech Wiki

Useful link that, thanks.

[Duncan VXR]

If you do draw a decent bit of air in the clutch line by leaving the fluid too low in the res it can be fun to bleed but with 2 people should not be too bad. I also have a pressure bleeder which helps speed things up and tend to still go with the 2 man option with it attached. As stated rotate the fronts when bleeding Also if you have the kit you can back bleed the cluch which can help on mid engineed cars Good luck and sure you will get there DG

[tommobot]

Bit of a bump..

 

I fear I'm going to be having to rotate my calipers to remove air..

 

What actually is the practical method for doing this?

 

I presume I can only do this with a presure bleeder, rather than pumping the brake pedal?

 

With ezi-bleed take caliper off, rotate, hold upside down and wait for air to pass? - Just to be clear, with the ez-bleed or similar, with the caliper off the car the piston won't clamp into the pad?

[Talk-torque]

I have an upside down bleed to do. I was planning on giving the callipers a piece of wood, about the same thickness as the discs, to chew on, while they are disconnected. If you don’t do something like that, the pistons will pop out, as you suspect. If using a pressure bleeder, you will need to take the callipers off and position the wood before applying any pressure.

Edited by Talk-torque, 22 August 2019 - 04:24 PM.

[chris_uk]

Unbolt the caliper and rotate them forward round the disc.

No need for anything extra.

[Talk-torque]

Ah, thanks Chris. It’s them as knows, that knows!

[oblomov]

https://wiki.seloc.o...leed_the_brakes

 

Is the bleeding order correct?  My understanding is longest brake line to shortest is the correct order.  It says OSR, NSR, OSF, NSF.  I would have thought NSR OSR NSF OSF, but then I could be mistaken?