36 replies to this topic

[p4cks]

It's not a Rick Roll. It's a one of these...

[fiveoclock]

So to clarify.....

I need the wheel, a spacer (to position the wheel) then one of these adapters http://cgi.ebay.co.u...les_CarParts_SM and that's it...?

Thats what I used minus the spacer, had the snap off hub on there for about ten months now, its been on and off hundreds of times and there is no play in it and I've had no problems with it.

[rsg]

I'm currently getting a standard steering wheel recovered. Should have more details/pictures next week

[JimmyJamJerusalem]

OK Mark, a few more questions..... Removed the old boss and test fitted the new one.... I'm guessing I need to keep the spring (18) in place from behind the original boss as it holds the thrust bearing in place, but I couldn;t for the life of me apply enough pressure to the new boss get the nut started, is there a way that the new boss must 'locate'...? Also there is a brass pin/brush at the top of indicator unit (5). Am I meant to connect this to the +'tive of the horn and use this as an electrical contact on the back of the boss...? It looks like it should but the pin doesn't seem long enough.... Does the boss push on far enough when tensioning the nut up..?

[fiveoclock]

OK Mark, a few more questions.....

Removed the old boss and test fitted the new one....

I'm guessing I need to keep the spring (18) in place from behind the original boss as it holds the thrust bearing in place, but I couldn;t for the life of me apply enough pressure to the new boss get the nut started, is there a way that the new boss must 'locate'...?

Also there is a brass pin/brush at the top of indicator unit (5). Am I meant to connect this to the +'tive of the horn and use this as an electrical contact on the back of the boss...? It looks like it should but the pin doesn't seem long enough.... Does the boss push on far enough when tensioning the nut up..?

Keep the spring it does hold the race in place. You need muscles like Schwarzeneger to hold the wheel on and do the nut up, either enlist a helper or use feet, hands, anything you can. I didnt use the brass contact, I just have a button mounted on the column shroud for the horn. I'm certain the boss is drawn onto the column far enough to utilise the sprung brass contact.

[JimmyJamJerusalem]

OK Mark, a few more questions.....

Removed the old boss and test fitted the new one....

I'm guessing I need to keep the spring (18) in place from behind the original boss as it holds the thrust bearing in place, but I couldn;t for the life of me apply enough pressure to the new boss get the nut started, is there a way that the new boss must 'locate'...?

Also there is a brass pin/brush at the top of indicator unit (5). Am I meant to connect this to the +'tive of the horn and use this as an electrical contact on the back of the boss...? It looks like it should but the pin doesn't seem long enough.... Does the boss push on far enough when tensioning the nut up..?

Keep the spring it does hold the race in place. You need muscles like Schwarzeneger to hold the wheel on and do the nut up, either enlist a helper or use feet, hands, anything you can. I didnt use the brass contact, I just have a button mounted on the column shroud for the horn. I'm certain the boss is drawn onto the column far enough to utilise the sprung brass contact.

Man that's mental!!! I was pushing that as hard as I possibly could to try and get that on and decided that I must be doing something wrong!!

Made a hash of fitting the bonnet pins too Glad I didn't try the AeroCatches!!

[fiveoclock]

The way I did it was to have the nut on the dash top then put the wheel on with both hands and push it in compressing the spring then with one hand push the bottom of the wheel forwards and down to jam it on the column and put the nut on with the other hand. Oh yes dont let go of the wheel while the nut is only on a quarter of a turn or it will fly off like a bullet out of a gun and smash your teeth in!!!! HTH

[Crabash]

I was lucky, I had a helper but it was still quite an effort to get it on far enough to thread the nut. I put the nut on 1st without the washer to get it pulled on then refitted the washer. The pin does contact the ring when fully on.

Edited by Crabash, 30 August 2010 - 08:20 PM.

[JimmyJamJerusalem]

The way I did it was to have the nut on the dash top then put the wheel on with both hands and push it in compressing the spring then with one hand push the bottom of the wheel forwards and down to jam it on the column and put the nut on with the other hand. Oh yes dont let go of the wheel while the nut is only on a quarter of a turn or it will fly off like a bullet out of a gun and smash your teeth in!!!! HTH

The wheel....? This snap off boss obscures the nut when clipped together! How did you manage to get the wheel on?

The pin does contact the ring when fully on.

Cool

[Crabash]

I put the adapter boss on 1st, then worried about the other parts, took a few tries to get it right too even though I marked it up, the force required to push it on meant the column was moving, prob because I had the front wheels off at the same time.

[JimmyJamJerusalem]

I put the adapter boss on 1st, then worried about the other parts, took a few tries to get it right too even though I marked it up, the force required to push it on meant the column was moving, prob because I had the front wheels off at the same time.

Yeah I've got loads of faffing left!!! Had the rack out today and replaced some cracked 'ends' on the ball joints, then had to wrestle to replace the univerals joint which was a bastard of a job!! Front wheels off and car's up on axle stands and will have to rig up a rudimentary geo at some point

If I can get the wheel on where I want it I can fine tune the wheel position on the track rod ends no...?

[Crabash]

As long as you get it fairly close to centre should be fine to do it that way. Don't forget you have to line it all up and make sure the indicator cancel works. Did my geo fine with poles and string after fitting rear toe links and adjusting my camber front and rear. Found it's a lot easier with a helper though, to push car back and forth and take measurements for you while you dissappear inside the wheels.

Edited by Crabash, 30 August 2010 - 09:43 PM.

[fiveoclock]

The wheel....? This snap off boss obscures the nut when clipped together! How did you manage to get the wheel on?

Sorry forgot you are just putting the snap off boss on and not a normal boss with a wheel. My snap off boss was put on at BoT with Steff and me forcing the boss on while Jez put the nut on.

[JimmyJamJerusalem]

Hmmm, not sure this is the correct boss! The electrical connection/brush didn't reach the back of the boss and had to be modified to get it to work. Also the indicator canceler is too short and doesn't switch the indicators off Never mind though, it fits and there's no play so I'm not too bothered just wanted to know if others managed to get it to work!

[fiveoclock]

Hmmm, not sure this is the correct boss!

The electrical connection/brush didn't reach the back of the boss and had to be modified to get it to work. Also the indicator canceler is too short and doesn't switch the indicators off

Never mind though, it fits and there's no play so I'm not too bothered just wanted to know if others managed to get it to work!

Didnt use that connection for the horn so dont know but my indicators cancelled when first fitted but now dont

[frankandbeanz]

corsa b

[JimmyJamJerusalem]

If I can get the wheel on where I want it I can fine tune the wheel position on the track rod ends no...?

Wow can't believe this was only Aug '10 and I'd still not finished building the car, seems like I've had it years and years.....

ANNYWAY!!

For anyone looking at this in the future.... To answer my own question above the answer IS NO!

You need to centralise the the wheel properly by jumping splines and checking (no of turns till full lock each way). Labour intensive but needed as it effects your bump characteristics otherwise. Fine tune then on TRE's