I'll be doing that next winter along with a suspension refresh.fair play mate - not sure i'd go that far. Getting my subframe off was the limit of my skills I think. :
#64
#41
Posted 18 March 2017 - 05:41 PM
#43
Posted 18 March 2017 - 06:44 PM
Hopfully these pics of the pristine internals of your gearbox will stop the neurotic owners who wax and wain about which gearbox oil they should use. Bascially any old gearbox oil will be fine so long as it's the right grade, as the unit has a very easy life without any contaminents.
Edited by Nev, 18 March 2017 - 06:44 PM.
#44
Posted 18 March 2017 - 06:46 PM
BTW, those shims I PM'ed you about presumably go under the conical diff bearings to press the thing into the casing harder. As I mentioned Quiafe has to be you defining answer here, even if they are fooking wifty wafty about it.
Many thanks for the PayPal payment.
Edited by Nev, 18 March 2017 - 06:47 PM.
#45
Posted 19 March 2017 - 12:26 AM
Are you installing the correct shims by the way, so the diff doesn't rattle about? When mine went in there was crossed wires about the shimming form Quiafe themselves. I had to open it up a second time when they finally decided that it should be shimmed.
What shimming? Internally in the ATB gears, or shimming the conical bearings to the correct heights??
#46
Posted 19 March 2017 - 12:46 AM
The latter. The quaife ATB doesn't need internally adjusting unlike old school clutch type LSDsWhat shimming? Internally in the ATB gears, or shimming the conical bearings to the correct heights??Are you installing the correct shims by the way, so the diff doesn't rattle about? When mine went in there was crossed wires about the shimming form Quiafe themselves. I had to open it up a second time when they finally decided that it should be shimmed.
#48
Posted 19 March 2017 - 01:47 PM
that RHS engine mount could use a little hammerite
#49
Posted 19 March 2017 - 01:55 PM
Will be doing a major refresh next winter. Don't want the current work to take too long, summer is comingthat RHS engine mount could use a little hammerite
#51
Posted 19 March 2017 - 04:40 PM
You probably know this already, but to match it to the head try using bluetack/plasticine or somesuch as a good "squish" position indicator (without the gasket). Then once the inlet manifold is ground to shape you can visually match the gasket to it.
#52
Posted 19 March 2017 - 04:47 PM
#54
Posted 19 March 2017 - 06:49 PM
#55
Posted 20 March 2017 - 09:12 PM
I had reason to talk to David earlier today and he informed me it took him a long time machining up a custom tool to get his off in one piece with the user of a large hydraulic press. So i had no chance.
#56
Posted 20 March 2017 - 09:27 PM
Why take these off If you were going to install new bearings anyway on the other diff?? Or you needed the shims or did intend to reuse these bearings?
#57
Posted 20 March 2017 - 09:31 PM
Posted in the wrong thread lol. I was going to try to reuse these for one, and i am removing them to accurately measure for the shimms.Why take these off If you were going to install new bearings anyway on the other diff?? Or you needed the shims or did intend to reuse these bearings?
#58
Posted 21 March 2017 - 05:13 PM
Took the cc out and sorted out the mountings on it, took 4 times longer than expected. It is now about 10mm more inboard which makes all the difference, no longer clashes on the clam mounts. Learning that everything takes longer on the vx.
Edited by ditonics, 21 March 2017 - 05:13 PM.
#59
Posted 21 March 2017 - 05:30 PM
Broken riv nuts replaced and rest had a tap run through them. Thanks to whoever recommended the spiralux tool, it's ace.
Where did you get your rivnut tool from? I have a few to do on mine. :
#60
Posted 21 March 2017 - 05:33 PM
Search eBay for: Eclipse-Spiralux 2745 threaded insert tool kit I went for a starter kit type thing.Where did you get your rivnut tool from? I have a few to do on mine. :Broken riv nuts replaced and rest had a tap run through them. Thanks to whoever recommended the spiralux tool, it's ace.
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