Jump to content


Photo

Engine Warning Light Problem


  • Please log in to reply
46 replies to this topic

#21 slimvince

slimvince

    Super Duper Member

  • PipPipPip
  • 649 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Stockholm, Sweden

Posted 10 June 2005 - 09:52 PM

Here is a pic looking from outside the car's left hand side looking inwards through the left rear wheel arch, where the left rear wheel usually sits. You can see the yellow Bilstein damper at the bottom of the pic, and the two connectors in the middle, one blue one black. Just behind the blue connector you can just barely see the cooling fluid bottle.

#22 snoopstah

snoopstah

    Scary Internerd

  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 3,056 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Vancouver, BC

Posted 10 June 2005 - 10:24 PM

Excellent, many thanks. thumbsup

#23 snoopstah

snoopstah

    Scary Internerd

  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 3,056 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Vancouver, BC

Posted 11 June 2005 - 05:28 PM

Had a go at the one on the pedal today, but couldn't budge it. Found the connector fine, but couldn't find any sliding bit at all. Do you remember which side of the connector this was on, or what colour it was?

#24 slimvince

slimvince

    Super Duper Member

  • PipPipPip
  • 649 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Stockholm, Sweden

Posted 19 July 2005 - 08:34 AM

sorry for not reading this thread for a while... Here is a pic of the pedals with the pedal sensor connector locked.

#25 slimvince

slimvince

    Super Duper Member

  • PipPipPip
  • 649 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Stockholm, Sweden

Posted 19 July 2005 - 08:35 AM

...and here with it opened (the brown-reddish plastic thing).

#26 slimvince

slimvince

    Super Duper Member

  • PipPipPip
  • 649 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Stockholm, Sweden

Posted 19 July 2005 - 08:38 AM

...Still got the problem occasionally, but not that often any more. Wanted to disconnect the ECU again but cannot remember how those connector's locking mechanism works :beat: :angry:

#27 Guest_AntB (Guest)

Guest_AntB (Guest)

Posted 19 July 2005 - 09:34 AM

you've got rubber boots over yours i haven't! :( pull the boots off. push the centre grey tooth of the plastic locking clip then slide out. thumbsup so this is the cause of all the failures?! damp?! :o i'm going to get that vxt rain cover fitted to be on the safe side thumbsup cheers slimvince :D thumbsup

#28 slimvince

slimvince

    Super Duper Member

  • PipPipPip
  • 649 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Stockholm, Sweden

Posted 19 July 2005 - 10:30 AM

you've got rubber boots over yours i haven't! :( pull the boots off. push the centre grey tooth of the plastic locking clip then slide out. thumbsup

so this is the cause of all the failures?! damp?! :o i'm going to get that vxt rain cover fitted to be on the safe side thumbsup

cheers slimvince :D thumbsup

Opel have not yet come back to me with any idea on what might cause this problem (since May(!))... I thought it might be moisture in the connectors, and everything looked fine for a while until it came back again at three different occasions in July - all at sunny an dry weather (and I keep my car in a dry garage...).

Tried to push the little clip at the red arrow and then slide it all out in the direction of the green arrow but it is still stuck. Some brute force needed :unsure: maybe?

#29 Guest_AntB (Guest)

Guest_AntB (Guest)

Posted 19 July 2005 - 10:41 AM

yup, it's a fcuking stiff clip. eventually i gave up and asked a guy at the garage to do it when it went in for some tlc. he did it in front of my eyes in about 5 seconds. *hangs head in shame*

#30 ozpass

ozpass

    Member

  • Pip
  • 89 posts
  • Location:Mossley, Manchester.

Posted 19 July 2005 - 11:32 AM

I appreciate that the VXT is a different kettle of fish entirely, but my car had identical symptoms on multiple occasions. Each time it was due to water pooling around the IDS pack and lunching it. What confused the matter was that the problem remained (albeit intermittently) when the weather (and the IDS pack) dried up again. Problem ultimately solved by fitting the water shield to the underside of the engine cover and replacing aforementioned IDS pack. Previous owners had all garaged the car, but it wasn't an option for me, hence the problem only rearing its head during my ownership.

#31 slimvince

slimvince

    Super Duper Member

  • PipPipPip
  • 649 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Stockholm, Sweden

Posted 27 July 2005 - 08:47 PM

you've got rubber boots over yours i haven't! :( pull the boots off. push the centre grey tooth of the plastic locking clip then slide out. thumbsup

so this is the cause of all the failures?! damp?! :o  i'm going to get that vxt rain cover fitted to be on the safe side thumbsup

cheers slimvince  :D thumbsup

Opel have not yet come back to me with any idea on what might cause this problem (since May(!))... I thought it might be moisture in the connectors, and everything looked fine for a while until it came back again at three different occasions in July - all at sunny an dry weather (and I keep my car in a dry garage...).

Tried to push the little clip at the red arrow and then slide it all out in the direction of the green arrow but it is still stuck. Some brute force needed :unsure: maybe?

Managed to disconnect the ECU; there is an aluminium bar that blocks part of the connector-mechanism to slide out when you lift the lever on the connector and this will have to be removed first ;) !

In the piccie I posted earlier, the green arrow actually points at one of two bolts that holds the alu-bar in place. Further to the right you can see the other one, this time a torx.

#32 slimvince

slimvince

    Super Duper Member

  • PipPipPip
  • 649 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Stockholm, Sweden

Posted 05 August 2005 - 07:19 AM

Error has come back again a few times even after cleaning the ECU connectors. :angry: Not very nice when overtaking or accelerating hard mid-corner on the race-track... Heard about yet another swedish speedster with the same symptom, do not know if it was the exact same error code. Still no answer from the Opel service technicians. Anybody else out there with this problem still unresolved, or did something else than replacing the throttle pedal sensor and ECU fix it for you?

#33 snoopstah

snoopstah

    Scary Internerd

  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 3,056 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Vancouver, BC

Posted 05 August 2005 - 08:53 AM

Mine came back yesterday for the first time in 2-3 months. It's been quite wet here in the last couple of weeks - wonder if it's related...

#34 joneian

joneian

    Member

  • Pip
  • 29 posts

Posted 08 August 2005 - 09:05 AM

Hi All, Exactly the same thing happened with my 2001 NA. It first happened a few weeks ago, the day after having it serviced. Got the AA out, and by the time they arrived (an hour or so later), the ECU warning light had gone out, and when he connected his computer there were no error codes. The car was fine, and as though it handn't happened. I assumed it was a dodgy connection that had been knocked in the service and when the AA guy was poking around in the engine he pushed it back in. However, it happened again yesterday. :( Got the AA out again, and although warning light was still on when he plugged his pc in - again no error message. This dude seemed to know much more about vxls and said similar things to what have been mentioned here. He cleaned the connectors mentioned here, and got his pc to plot a graph of throttle potentiometer, and engine speed as he pressed the pedal, and all looked good. Mine is way out of warantee, so I guess I just see what happens - maybe replace the potentiometer if it happens again. Quite frustrating and, by the looks of this thread, relatively comon... edit to add: p.s. many thanks to slimvince for his stirling and extensive research into this!

Edited by joneian, 08 August 2005 - 09:07 AM.


#35 Nillet

Nillet

    Billy No Mates

  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,728 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Eslöv, Skåne, Sweden
  • Interests:Whisky, Formula 1

Posted 08 August 2005 - 10:49 AM

Heard about yet another swedish speedster with the same symptom, do not know if it was the exact same error code.

The same code on mine: P1271 "Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) Sensor 1-2 Correlation" (in Swedish though).
Values on sensor no1 was 1,0 V and sensor no2 was 4,5 V.
I'm booked at the Opel-shop for 22th August.
Tried to get my Opel-shop to talk to yours, but they wouldn't. :beat:

Has happend twice for me. On long runs with static pedal work both times.

#36 snoopstah

snoopstah

    Scary Internerd

  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 3,056 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Vancouver, BC

Posted 11 August 2005 - 01:52 PM

Mine gave up the ghost entirely this morning. Had to have it low-loaded to Vauxhall. Similar symptoms, but this time it didn't cure after a restart - flooring the accelerator produced the usual effect, but gradually increasing pressure caused the ECU light to come on at about 10% pedal pressure, at which point that was it until restarting the engine. Vauxhall reckon it needs a new ECU at 606 quid! I confirmed with them that if (when!) that doesn't fix it, I wouldn't be charged for the new ECU. God knows how long it'll be off the road for though - and it's my only car :(

#37 Nillet

Nillet

    Billy No Mates

  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,728 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Eslöv, Skåne, Sweden
  • Interests:Whisky, Formula 1

Posted 23 August 2005 - 06:23 AM

I'm booked at the Opel-shop for 22th August.

Picked the car up this morning. They talked to a technician at headquarters in Stockholm. All they did was some adjustments. And the cost was 350 SEK (25£). thumbsup
All I have to do now is drive and see if it helped... :unsure:

#38 Thorney

Thorney

    Whipping Boy

  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 11,404 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Bucks, UK
  • Interests:Global domination.

    Fluffy bunny rabbits.

Posted 01 September 2005 - 07:25 AM

Replacing all the connectors (both ends) seems to cure the issue on the cars we've seen and tbh it was issues like this that made us go and buy the Tech2 (which for the full kit is almost £4k :o ) as the Scantool can missread a lot of these kind of errors. The Tech2 has a feature where you can log whats happening to the car (we use in on diagnostic runs when remapping the car before and after) and these can show where the potentiometers are out of sync so confirms the problem.

#39 slimvince

slimvince

    Super Duper Member

  • PipPipPip
  • 649 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Stockholm, Sweden

Posted 10 September 2005 - 12:58 PM

Replacing all the connectors (both ends) seems to cure the issue on the cars we've seen

Cable-side, ECU/Pedal-side or both?

Edit: do you fix this by replacing the loom and/or replacing the connectors that are part of the ECU / Pedal-body? ...and the cable-to-cable connectors at the coolant reservoir? :unsure:

The service technician still has not got any reply from Opel Germany :angry: :o for over two months. :beat:
Going to recommend replacing the cables and connectors...

Edited by slimvince, 10 September 2005 - 01:53 PM.


#40 Nillet

Nillet

    Billy No Mates

  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,728 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Eslöv, Skåne, Sweden
  • Interests:Whisky, Formula 1

Posted 27 September 2005 - 07:25 AM

I'm booked at the Opel-shop for 22th August.

Picked the car up this morning. They talked to a technician at headquarters in Stockholm. All they did was some adjustments. And the cost was 350 SEK (25£). thumbsup
All I have to do now is drive and see if it helped... :unsure:

Well it didn't help. It happend again. Static pedalwork (highwaydriving) again.
Will try to get a replacement of the connectors at the Opel-shop.
What connectors can be changed?
Male and female at pedal?
Male and female at ECU?

Edit: Had a look at SlimVince's pictures. Is there a conector at the coolant reservoir also?

Edited by Nillet, 27 September 2005 - 07:28 AM.





1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users