36 replies to this topic

[H1 HWK]

Cheers Muncher, good pics, will see if I can do now

Peeled back a bit more self amalgamating tape to spread the wires more and spotted the correct blue with thin grey stripe wire..,
snip, snip, crimp, crimp, jobs a good un'

Like x2 £1 coins stashed in the side pocket, I probably don't need it, just more comfortable knowing it's there & available.

Thanks for your help guys.
BTW, now that I've fitted it, all sunny high temp days are now over....I enjoyed the summer though

[JG]

This can be done in the scanguage software can't it?

[Seb.F]

Think so yes?

[techieboy]

Scangauge works for the NA cooling fan but not for the turbo (unless somebody works out the correct code to send to the ecu).

[FLD]

This is handy. Cooked mine sat in traffic for 2h on the way back from the national. Turned out to be a corroded connection on the relay stopping the fan working but this is certainly a nice to have mod.

[jbudgie]

Just bought a 3 pin switch from maplin going to mount it next to the alarm LED. One way the switch is connecting the wire from ecu to fan the other will connect one of the two to earth but which one do I earth and which one do I just leave open?

Thats what I am wondering, anyone got a diagram ?

[Seb.F]

Connected the fan relay to the middle connection and the earth to one side and the other wire leading to the rear to the other side. Not sure what I did but it works!!

[Harry0075]

Thread resurrection, need some guidance people.

 

My rad used to work fine, only kicked in whilst sitting in traffic at 106 deg, and then one day stopped working, thought something may have been stuck or something, so had a bit of a poke around with metal hanger through the front grill, and had invested in a scangauge by then. Managed to manually kick it off. Started working again.

 

Happened again, and then had the rad fan changed, and also had an override switch put in. Worked ok for a few months, and then stopped working again (via 106+ temp, scangauge or via override switch). 

 

Clam is off now, so I have a chance to replace fan. My question...is there a way to completely bypass the current wiring, and connect it to manual operation only. I would prefer to be able to control it when I see temps climbing above 106 for peace of mind. I'm thinking there could be an issue with the wiring and causing fan to fail. Had checked fuses and relays and all seemed to be fine.

 

any suggestions, car has been off road since December, and have a new battery on its way so should be able to start up the car and check to see what can be done. If I can just have a switch inside the cabin allowing me to turn on the fan which bypasses the current wiring I can get the front clam back on and get the VX back on the road!

 

thanks

[D-DAWG83]

Thought id just update this with recent pics as the originals have gone.
Turns out, this one is not the wire you want


The wire you actually want is this one

[adamvx220]

Can someone point me in the right direction of what switch to use thanks

[H1 HWK]

Hi Adam, Pretty much any switch will do as there is no big current draw, it's just shorting the ground for a logic input. I used a push button (needs to be latching rather than momentary though). Fitted it to the front of the hand brake console so you can't even see the switch unless you know it's there. Can't get a pic in situ right now as the car is in for gear cable swap, but will get a pic later as I removed the console before it went to the garage.

[Ormes]

I put a rocker on the centre console:

 

[adamvx220]

Thanks for the replies im.i right in thinking it needs to be a 3 'pronged' switch Thanks

[Nev]

Thanks for the replies im.i right in thinking it needs to be a 3 'pronged' switch Thanks

 

Nope, 2 'pronged' (ie the simplest on/off switch).

 

[adamvx220]

P.md mate

[Tareim]

if you fit such a switch does it prevent it from working in the normal way (pre switch install) ?

[Ormes]

No, not if you tee off the signal wire rather than completely hijacking it!