56 replies to this topic

[out on the bike]

I have had the sump off today and I was rather surprised at what I found.
In the sump there were 2 and a bit sheared off and bent screws plus some metal filings.

Then after removing the upper sump I found where they came from.

The pulse wheel is not attached I could move it by hand and wobble it about so those screws that I found in the sump must have some how sheared of the wheel which seams imposable but it has happened.Time to replace the engine as there is no way of knowing just how much damage has been done to the bottom end by those screws between coming off and making it down into the sump.

[Ormes]

Aw sh1t. Glad you know what it is now but sorry about the outcome

[Nev]

Bloody hell, WTF caused those timing wheel bolts to shear? Seems absolutely the last thing anyone would expect.

Yea, probably best getting a new bottom end/short engine to rule out any other probs :o/

On the upside, you are now on your way to getting it running again. Once you go for your first test drive you'll be glad you've persevered. Also, you should be able to sell bits of your old engine to redeem costs. You could sell on my head and your block for approx 200 or 250 each and maybe the rods and pistons for £50.

Here's a good starting point (you can put my/your rebuild head on this): http://www.ebay.co.u...=item2c60e244d7(you'd also get to sell the turbo on as well, if its in good nick).

Edited by Nev, 20 November 2011 - 07:31 PM.

[out on the bike]

Bloody hell, WTF caused those timing wheel bolts to shear? Seems absolutely the last thing anyone would expect.

Yea, probably best getting a new bottom end/short engine to rule out any other probs :o/

On the upside, you are now on your way to getting it running again. Once you go for your first test drive you'll be glad you've persevered. Also, you should be able to sell bits of your old engine to redeem costs. You could sell on my head and your block for approx 200 or 250 each and maybe the rods and pistons for £50.

Here's a good starting point (you can put my/your rebuild head on this): http://www.ebay.co.u...=item2c60e244d7(you'd also get to sell the turbo on as well, if its in good nick).

I have no idea how those bolts have sheared and after a quick search of the web it appears it may be a one off as I have found no mention so far of it ever happening.My plan now is to put a complete engine in and then hopefully next year when the weather warms up and my bank balance has recovered I will completely strip the bottom end of my engine to find out the extent of the damage.If it is not to badly damaged I will rebuild it to a higher spec as from what I saw when doing the head the bores are 100% fine without even a lip at the top and the car has only done 32K.If I find the engine is too far gone I will sell the salvageable parts.Hopefully I will be back on the road soon and a big thanks to everybody who has helped me with advice on this I have got there in the end

[Nev]

A good inspection may show no other damage. Well, at least the saga has some light at the end of the tunnel now !

[MellowYellow]

I have heard of the DOHC I4 Ford engines having to have the pressed steel crank position rotor swapped out on higher revving engines, maybe the one you have was slightly out of balance, enough to do the bolts when you over revved it, at least now you know why it wouldn't run

[beginner]

Sorry to hear about your motor pal, i have heard of this problem but it had only happened when a customer had removed the gear for us to re grind the crank and then he re-fitted it. Probably either not tight enough or should have used a dab of locktight? They are tapered screws i think.. Anyway i reckon the damage wouldn't be to serious but it is a major strip down now.. good luck

[out on the bike]

At last the vx is almost ready to drive again.I have put in a second hand engine which I bought from craigb78 on here a big thanks to him for personally delivering the engine to me last sunday and a big thanks to Partridge for lending me an engine hoist so I could swap them over.Today I had the engine running briefly and was very surprised and happy when it fired into life on the first press of the start button.I didn't have it running long as I needed to re seat the exhaust onto the turbo as it was blowing slightly.Despite the rain I managed to get the rear clam bolted back on though I haven't managed to get the 2 M5 nuts on the roll bar cover on yet due to cold wet hands and lack of access.All I have left to do now is put the wheel arch liners and under trays back on then refit the interior also I will have to get it up to temperature and bleed the coolant I will then finally be able to drive it again though very steadily for now while making sure there are no leaks and everything is working as it should as well as it not being the best time of year for driving a vx.Again a big thank you to all who have advised and helped with out the knowledge of this forum and the great people on it I probably would have given up and sold it.Sorry if I have gone on a bit it but that engine fireing into life has made me very happy.

[GeorgeBC]

Glad you finally have it sorted sounds like its been a bit of a nightmare.

[christhegasman]

Welcome back take it easy out there

[DarrylB]

though I haven't managed to get the 2 M5 nuts on the roll bar cover on yet due to cold wet hands and lack of access

Hated those nuts!!! I ended up standing in the car facing backwards looking over the top to get them done up

Glad you got it sorted out and are nearly there!!!

Question: do you have to update the V5 now that the engine number has changed?

[out on the bike]

Welcome back take it easy out there

Thanks I will certainly be taking it very easily as I have just checked and the poor thing has been off the road for just over 4 months and I didn't get much chance to get used to it after getting it tuned up to around 250ish bhp before it went bang so very gentle use of the throttle will be a must on those cold damp/wet roads.

[out on the bike]

though I haven't managed to get the 2 M5 nuts on the roll bar cover on yet due to cold wet hands and lack of access

Hated those nuts!!! I ended up standing in the car facing backwards looking over the top to get them done up

Glad you got it sorted out and are nearly there!!!

Question: do you have to update the V5 now that the engine number has changed?

Thanks for the tip on those nuts and yes I will have to send the V5 off with the new engine number and I have a copy of the service history for the engine that I have put in which I have put with my service book in case I ever sell the car.

[Nev]

Excelent, glad you have finally fixed it

[siztenboots]

Did this engine have original rubber pulley or an underdrive one? trigger wheel failure of 3 SCREW,CSK.,M6 X 16,PULSE GENERATOR WHEEL TO CRANKSHAFT

[vocky]

looks like an alloy under-drive pulley in the picture .......

[out on the bike]

Did this engine have original rubber pulley or an underdrive one?

trigger wheel failure of 3 SCREW,CSK.,M6 X 16,PULSE GENERATOR WHEEL TO CRANKSHAFT

Yes it did and I have posted in the alloy pulley thread after seeing that MrSimba's car has had the same failure.I had fitted the same pulley wheel to the replacement engine but weather permitting I will be putting the standard one back on with a short belt when I find it at the weekend.