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Uprated Heater Installation

fezzasus heater

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#21 NickB787

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Posted 20 February 2012 - 08:52 AM



I decided it was likely beyond salvage so did my usual and took out my frustration by punching the fcuk out of an inanimate object. Came out a treat after that. And people wonder why I have a spare of everything. :D


looks like that one is dead, just hope the new mod works or you will have to remove it all over again :lol:

#22 CocoPops

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Posted 20 February 2012 - 08:59 AM

Who needs a heater in Matt's car when his rage will keep it warm! :lol:

#23 DuncanP

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Posted 03 March 2012 - 07:12 PM

Just a quick update on my heater. Got it during the week but only had a chance to get it fitted today. Unlike techie I managed to get mine fitted without ending up mortally wounded, I think this was down to having already had my heater out in the past. The instructions provided by fezzasus are nice and easy to follow and my old heater came out relatively unscathed and without being a total pain (I don't think you could ever describe getting the old heater out as easy). The only modification that I had to make was to trim the bleed screw down by a few mm's, this wasn't strictly needed but made life a bit easier. The new heater went in a lot easier than the old one came out and although being a snug fit it went in without any real problems. The only cursing was down to the top bolt being a bit of pain to get to but as these things go this was just a minor annoyance (normally working on cars involves a lot of cursing from me). Once the heater was bolted up fitting the rest was pretty easy but one word of warning. Despite being careful I very nearly cut one of the coolant pipes too short, obviously this would have been a bit of a headache so if in doubt cut to long then trim if needed. After getting the heater in I ran out of time so have yet to remove the dash and fit the heat controller, but as fezzasus tells me it will default to 'hot' I don't feel the need to rush to fix this with the weather getting colder again. Now im sure what everone wants to know is does it work. At this stage I cannot give you a full run down as I my coolant level needs topping up a bit (me being clumsy I lost more than I should have) and with the pub beckoning I haven't had time to bleed it all etc. But anyway in short YES it does work, in fact it made me jump when I started the car as the increase in flow was so much it blew all the crap out, grit and all making a fair bit of noise in the process. My biggest issue with the old heater was that it was **** at demisting the screen (one of a long list) which just makes it rather annoying first thing in the morning. The new heater does not have this problem and it demisted fairly quickly, not quite up to new car standard but a whole different league to before. To me this is worth the cost alone, so any increase in heat output is a bonus, I will update on this when I have some more time (hopefully tomorrow). So cheers fezzasus, one happy customer here. Anything I would change.... Not really. The only thing I might do is put a different wiring connector on, not really needed but I think I may have the bits around to do it.

#24 Delta Deano

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Posted 09 March 2012 - 03:05 PM

Fitted my heater today took about 3hrs had my old heater out b4 so i know the score. Fitting the new one was easier . Did the wiring i have had the dash top off b4 so i know the score here also the wiring was very stright forward but i only have one speed now is that right Fezzasus or am i missing something. It is not a problem has the heater is a lot quiter than my old one anyway also the heater dial just spins round but i have it on hot and i can tell you it is HOT a lot better than the old one. So top job Fezzasus thanks from Deano. thumbsup thumbsup

#25 fezzasus

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Posted 10 March 2012 - 07:42 AM

t i only have one speed now is that right Fezzasus or am i missing something.


No that's not right - have you connected all four wires from the fan to four pin connector?

#26 techieboy

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Posted 11 March 2012 - 03:32 PM

Did the wiring i have had the dash top off b4 so i know the score here also the wiring was very stright forward but i only have one speed now is that right Fezzasus or am i missing something.


Same here, as well. Just assumed the other speeds were near silent and that I couldn't hear them but checked earlier and it looks like only speed 3 is coughing anything up. :unsure:

#27 fezzasus

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Posted 11 March 2012 - 03:39 PM


Did the wiring i have had the dash top off b4 so i know the score here also the wiring was very stright forward but i only have one speed now is that right Fezzasus or am i missing something.


Same here, as well. Just assumed the other speeds were near silent and that I couldn't hear them but checked earlier and it looks like only speed 3 is coughing anything up. :unsure:


Well I think part of Deano's issue is that he's rearranged the cabling because he had to repair the resistors on his old heater.

To be honest I'm surprised to hear about both of these - all of the fan speeds were tested before I shipped them out. Do you have a multi meter to hand? You'll be able to tell if the cables are connected to the resistors by testing across the green/yellow cable to to the blue ( 1.8 Ohms) and brown (1.2 ohms). If you get a big 1 reading then it would suggest the cables arn't connected.

EDIT: Techie, if you can't get to the bottom of it then i'll be in MK next weekend and can pop across to take a look myself if that works for you

Edited by fezzasus, 11 March 2012 - 03:40 PM.


#28 techieboy

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Posted 11 March 2012 - 04:24 PM

Managed to find my old multimeter (miraculous in itself) and checked, with the following results Green/Yellow -> Blue = 1.8Ω Green/Yellow -> Brown = 3.5Ω Not sure if that makes any form of sense. :unsure:

#29 fezzasus

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Posted 11 March 2012 - 04:36 PM

You managed to find the Ohm symbol, that's dedication. It does makes sense, and they're in the ball park range you'd expect them to be, this does at least mean the resistor pack is there and functioning - if they had burnt out i'd expect them all to read a resistance of 1 (eg. no connection). Given that the old heater worked the next guess would be a poor connection between the existing 4 pin connector and new spade connectors. Try giving them a wiggle and see where you get - I found that with Tom's car last week that the connections in later models are looser than mine and since then i've been providing an extra 4 spade connectors with the heaters so people can chop off the 4 pin connector on their heater and reuse it - if you find the heater works when you wiggle the cables i'll pop some spade connectors in the post (actually, i'll do that anyway)

#30 techieboy

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Posted 11 March 2012 - 04:50 PM

Glad you like the symbology. I have a text document on the desktop with all of the obscure symbols that might ever be needed. :blush: I've got spade connectors a plenty here, so no need to worry about sending any more to me but thanks for the offer. thumbsup I've also got the loom from the original (now shattered) heater, so I'm happy to adapt that to fit and extend it a bit, if necessary to make an OEM style connection to the car loom. Might need to venture into the depths of the front compartment with a torch to see if there is any movement on speed 1 and 2 to be sure but, I couldn't hear or feel any output from the outlet on the heater box itself until speed 3.

#31 fezzasus

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Posted 11 March 2012 - 05:03 PM

Ah, I usually find a website I need with them on and copy and paste it, although depressingly I can probably remember the function in Latex. Speeds 1 and 2 are much quieter, combined with the crappy air splitting mechanism in the car it might just be a case of not feeling it. Let me know how you get on.

#32 KurtVerbose

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Posted 11 March 2012 - 08:19 PM

If you hold the alt key down and then type 8486 when you release the alt key you get & on this forum. But if you do the same in wordpad you get Ω, which you can then paste in. For an easier life you can just paste what I've just typed.





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