64 replies to this topic

[DarrylB]

Here's what I've tried already: 1. Removed each plug from the black and blue connectors and pain stakinly cleaned them and pushed them together. 2. Tried a second TB (how do I tell what pins are 'E' & 'F' in order to test the TB opening with a 9v battery as per Vockys suggestion in FLD's thread? done a forum and net search but to no avial) 3. Checked every fuse - ones in the front and the 2 on the boot loom 4. Checked the boot relays (replaced the yellow one thanks to fiveoclock) do the other 2 boot relays stop the car from starting? 5. brand new battery 6. Cleaned the pins and plug on the TB connector 7. Carefully removed the ECU connector and carefully cleaned the pins = all looked clean to begin with Using Op-com and with the ignition on and codes cleared; when I push the throttle pedal I can see the values change on the pedal, but then checking the codes again and it's thrown back the 1516 code... Any suggestions on what to try next? Coil pack? Completely remove and strip the loom from ECU>TB>Blue Plug and check for continuity? Try a different ECU? (Really really really hope it's not this!) Any help would be great

Edited by DarrylB, 29 May 2012 - 07:58 PM.

[MellowYellow]

Pedal maybe?

[DarrylB]

Thing is mellowyellow, I can see the values change in Op com when I press the pedal - so that must work at least

[Ollyj]

Found this on: http://www.z22se.co....p-needed.14152/ seems that 1512 and 1516 are related.

Hi got 2001 Vectra 2.2sri with the following error codes:

P1512 Intake Manifold Runner Control (Bank 1) Stuck Closed

P1516 IMRC Input Error (Bank 1)

Told that I need a new ECU but don't want to spend if I am wasting money so decided to research first.

Any advice and tips greatly appreciated.

p1512 is throttle body related

VAUXHALL Throttle Position Adapter Error
VAUXHALL MCP TPS Min Learn fault
VAUXHALL Throttle position signal (TP) - adaptation failure

p1516 is

Throttle actuator control (TAC) system - range/performance problem

clean throttle body and reset ecu by unplugging battery

search on forums on how to clean throttle body

I find it strange that it needs a new ECU when the ECU is showing up some codes and is working how it should do

if the fault comes back then investigate air leaks from around the EGR pipe from the head to front of inlet manifold

also look for the rubber plugs on side of inlet manifold to see they is in place and no air leaks

if your 100% sure no air leaks then move on to Throttle body replacement and lastly switch on accelerator pedal


imo sounds most likely an air leak or faulty throttle body, the faults are basically saying that your pedal position does not correspond to that your of your throttle body

first code says either throttle body , pedal switch or ecu

second code says either throttle body, pedal switch, ecu or immobilizer

if you have a volt meter u can use the TIS checking system but do u know how to gauge ohms, volts etc

[DarrylB]

cheers Olly, i've tried two Throttle bodies now and still no change. the bolts are snug tight too so confident there are no air leaks.

[NickB787]

Have you tried another throttle pedal?, no need to remove the old one just unplug it and attach the plug to another pedal and see if you still get the codes after clearing them? someone should have one you can borrow

[FLD]

Replied to your PM, if it works them post it up here. It'll help someone else with this in the future.

[DarrylB]

Cheers Nick, joe suggests that too. Will be trying that as ive got one at home and more fiddling with the blue and black plugs tonight. Immense help and suggestions via text, pm and replies here so far...very humbled!

[DarrylB]

Tonights update so far @ 20:20 Disconnected battery Fitted spare accelerator pedal (not fully - just the connection) Closed all the pins on blue and black plugs Connected battery Ignition on Cleared codes with Op-comm Pressed new accelerator pedal and could see values changing in op-comm as was before with the original peda so I guess that's ok. Checked the codes and still had P1516 BALLS! Time to remove the loom between ECU, TB and blue plug and do a continuity check.... more updates to follow.....

[FLD]

Does your throttle do its boot sequence? When you first turn the key it should do a move sequence (fully open then fully close I think??). Web cam in the throttle while you turn the key is how I check!

[DarrylB]

No - no start up sequence on eiher of the Throttle bodies tested FLD. I used the bathfoom mirror angled so I could see it through the rear window Second update for tonight @ 21:34 its not the loom with the blue and black blugs on and goes back to the ECU - all pins checked out for continuity

[FLD]

Not wanting to scare monger but might be worth seeing if a local owner will lend you their ecu. It wont start due to the chip/transponder but should do the boot sequence.

[DarrylB]

Had a feeling it would come down to the ECU... :- Where do the other half of the blue/black plugs go to? the female ends? back to the other plug on the ECU? Cheers for all the suggestions FLD!

[vocky]

according to TIS relay K18 should be checked or replace the ECU

[DarrylB]

relay K18....wheres that torch? back out I go! Cheers vocky. Fingers crossed

[smiley]

Another connector to check is the one at the throttle pedal. Also to rule out damage to the earth cable that goes through the console, you could temporary wire a minus cable between battery and engine.

[DarrylB]

so my K18 relay has seen better days......i still need to put a power source across to see if it works, but I'm thinking I'll get a new one just for peace of mind. I'll replace the other one too at the same time, then that would of been all 3 replaced.



Joe being the absolute LEGEND that he is provisionally sorting me out with an ECU to test over the weekend. Not sure how to repay him if it works...Lifetime beer tokens!

[DarrylB]

Cheers smiley - I've tested 2 throttle pedals now and I see results back in OP-comm when I press them so I have to rule that out otherwise I'll go mad. Will give the earthing suggestion a go though

[2deano5]

Are you only getting a P1516 or are you getting a 5volt reference error to? If you have an EGR cheater take that out I was having similar problems and it turned out to be the EGR cheater giving up the ghost, although my throttle body was still going through its start up sequence. Also check the top rear brake light is working Deano

[FLD]

The black plug carries the 'body' signals to the ecu. Thats the pedal sensors, oil pressure switch and second lambda. All of these are on the same ecu plug bar the second lambda. The second lambda switches loom parts and gets bundled into the blue plug wiring. The blue plug carries the engine sensors and throttle wires (obviously less the second lambda) These are all into the other ecu plug. It would be possible to separate these two if it wasn't for that second lambda!