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Gear Cable Changing Photo-Guide


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#1 JohnTurbo

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Posted 04 June 2012 - 11:06 PM

Well all I could find by way of a guide for this was a description of the process by Slindborg, I thought I'd elaborate.

1) Drop centre undertray. (2x allen bolts, 11 or so 10mm bolts)

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2) Release the handbrake cable from the yoke. - Pull out the clip with a small screwdriver, then push out the pin.


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3) Remove the cable support bracket (2x philips)

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4) Unhook cables from hangar (shown in top left of photo)

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5) Prize balljoints off gearbox. These are to the left of the engine bay if you stand behind the car and can take a bit of getting off.

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I used the bottom jaw of this as a lever...as there isn't much access with my CC tank there....

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6) Remove e-torx screw holding the cable bracket on the gearbox, and withdraw the bracket/cables to under the car.

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7) Inside car, remove drivers seat as this is easier than the passenger. I took photos of this but really it is easy, 2x 6mm allen bolts at front and 13mm hex at the rear of the seat. (Can release seatbelt mounting too if prefered). Remove centre console (various clips, unscrew gearknob).


8) Cut 7x cableties which hold the cable harness. Bent this out of the way over the passenger seat.

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9) Remove 4 bolts holding the remote assembly down. 3x 13mm hex front and 5mm allen rear. Retain the central plastic spacer, and front and rear ally spacers. Mine was fitted with a washer per spacer too.

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10) Under the car - drill this rivet.

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#2 JohnTurbo

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Posted 04 June 2012 - 11:06 PM

11) Prize off the rod ends.

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12) Remove 4x philips self tapers retaining the cable end bracket block. Push the block forward out of the remote assy to release the cables.

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13) The select cable will come straight out but the shift cable is trapped. Remove 2x bolts to release the handbrake handle assembly. In order to get the cable out I had to bend the s shaped steel bracket in the centre of the picture below into the position it is below. (Its purpose normally is to form the bend in the select cable so it curves nicely to the retention bracket. Both cables should now pass out of the rear of the remote assembly. PAY CLOSE ATTENTION to the routing for reassembly. (The select cable [short ends] is routed to the bottom, and connects to the bottom balljoint. The shift cable, long ends, is routed to the top.

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14) New (cablecraft) cables below vs old OEM. Similarish!

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15) Remove rodends from old cables and recover boots and wire clips. Release wire clips and remove cables from bracket.

(Photo shows removing boots)

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16) Refit boots to new cables. My cablecraft cables did not have the groove for the retention clip, so I turned the clip round and doubled the boot retention groove as a clip groove. Not ideal! Fit new cables to bracket in the same orientation as OEM. (Mine needed a gentle tap in).

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17) This is where things went wrong - my rod end was too long so I had to extend the threadted length and cut it down. I would hope this is not a "Step" in the future. I got annoyed at this point and stopped taking photos, sorry!

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18) Thread the new cables through the letterbox under the car into the cabin...with shift cable to the left as you look at the hole. Thread these back through the remote assembly in the way they were removed.

19) Push the cable ends into the retention block, and slide it back into the remote assembly. Secure with 4x self tapers. Bend the bracket back to the original postion (from step 13). Clip cable ends balljoints back onto the lever balls. Refit brake lever.

20) Bolt the remote assembly back to the chassis (5mm allen, 3x 13mm bolts) ensuring the correct washer/spacer stacks are used. Replace the rivet you drilled. - This supports the floor skin and it will likely vibrate without it.

21) Under the car, pass the gearbox bracket with cables attached up into the rough location. Hook the cables back onto the retention hook, and replace the retention bracket (2x philips).

22) From the top, leaning into the engine bay, reseat the bracket and replace the e-torx bolt to hold it in place. Clip the cable ends back onto the balls. The big end is the top ball.

23) Now try the shift. Course adjustment should be done (on cablecraft cables) with the big 22mm nut at the gearbox end. - I found it was easier to remove the e-torx bolt and pull the cables back under the car to make adjustments. Fine tuning is easiest done by poping the cable ends off the balls on the gearstick...and screwing the end in or out.
Adjust shift until when the car is in neutral the stick is vertical from the side view.
Adjust select until the spring (visible on the RHS of the remote assy, at the front) is under no preload when the car is in third or 4th gear. (The lever would also be vertical in the rear view).
Ensure there are at least 4-5 threads engaged into the cable end by the cable rod for strength.
Ensure locking nuts at cable ends are nipped up.

24) Refit the wiring loom into the original postion, re cable tie.
Refit the centre console.
Refit drivers seat.

25) Refit undertray.

26) Enjoy your slick gearshift!

#3 Baron Von Scubadaddy

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Posted 05 June 2012 - 10:55 AM

Great guide You should really be letting cable craft know about this problem. I thought that they had sorted these and they were a swap over with no issues I would get in touch and let them know what your problems were so others don't have the same pain. thumbsdown

#4 JohnTurbo

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Posted 05 June 2012 - 12:33 PM

Ill certainly bottom it out with them. Theyre currently making 35 sets....lol

#5 slindborg

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Posted 05 June 2012 - 05:30 PM

Take the boots off!!!!!!! They trap moisture and will lead to premature failure! And the cablecraft/tuthill cables are sealed properly anyway so don't need the shitty boots. And the floor skin will not vibrate without the rivet and bracket, I did 2.5 years with mine making no extra flapping. Other than that the na has 4 screws holding the cable tray on under the car :)

#6 JohnTurbo

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Posted 05 June 2012 - 05:36 PM

Well I pushed down next to the rivet bracket with the tip of my index finger and I could flex it down 5mm or so. I think that justifies a rivet...so I'm going to crawl under your car in the dead of night and put a rivet in just to p*ss you off. I need the valuable cooling effect that moisture provides. Perhaps they aren't needed - there are wiper seals on the rod.

#7 slindborg

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Posted 05 June 2012 - 05:41 PM

Well I pushed down next to the rivet bracket with the tip of my index finger and I could flex it down 5mm or so. I think that justifies a rivet...so I'm going to crawl under your car in the dead of night and put a rivet in just to p*ss you off.

I need the valuable cooling effect that moisture provides.
Perhaps they aren't needed - there are wiper seals on the rod.



Matt will probably murder you for breaking into his lockup and fcuking with his car :lol:

#8 JohnTurbo

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Posted 05 June 2012 - 05:56 PM

Ill fight him off with the rivet gun. You sold up then?

#9 bunsenburner

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Posted 08 July 2013 - 05:48 PM

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..............PAY CLOSE ATTENTION to the routing for reassembly. (The select cable [short ends] is routed to the bottom, and connects to the bottom balljoint. The shift cable, long ends, is routed to the top.
 

 

I failed to pay close attention!

 

Does the shift cable (left/right gearstick) enter the cabin at the bottom and the select cable (forward/back gearstick) enter at the top?

 

The description above says that the select cable attaches to the bottom ball joint in the cabin, but isn't it the top one (and farthest front)?



#10 JohnTurbo

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Posted 08 July 2013 - 06:23 PM

I'm probably inverted on my descriptions of cables to you....however left right is indeed the bottom joint.

 

Left right looks to be on the pass side if i'm piecing my photos together correctly.

If you get it wrong you cant refit the centre console so you'll know...lol



#11 bunsenburner

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Posted 08 July 2013 - 06:48 PM

Gotcha! Thanks for the quick reply. Excellent guide btw.

#12 VX220BOB

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Posted 22 May 2014 - 09:01 PM

.

Edited by VX220BOB, 22 May 2014 - 09:04 PM.


#13 Jocke_D

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Posted 02 June 2015 - 08:30 PM

I also failed to pay attention during disassembly :(

 

When I read the post by bunsenburner I get confused...

 

To get some things straight:

Shift cable is the one with the bigger ball joint that goes on the gear box (the one with the red sticker)?

Shift cable goes to the left in the "letter box" (seen from the rear)?

Shift cable goes in the bottom of the assembly?

Shift cable goes to the rear/bottom joint that also is the left/right movement of the stick??

 

I hope I got this right...

 

Also, if someone has a picture of how the cables are routed around the hand brake lever I would really appreciate it :)

I guess if I'm right above I can't get it wrong but it would feel better.



#14 Jocke_D

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Posted 11 June 2015 - 05:39 AM

I also failed to pay attention during disassembly :(

 

When I read the post by bunsenburner I get confused...

 

To get some things straight:

Shift cable is the one with the bigger ball joint that goes on the gear box (the one with the red sticker)?

Shift cable goes to the left in the "letter box" (seen from the rear)?

Shift cable goes in the bottom of the assembly?

Shift cable goes to the rear/bottom joint that also is the left/right movement of the stick??

 

I hope I got this right...

 

Also, if someone has a picture of how the cables are routed around the hand brake lever I would really appreciate it :)

I guess if I'm right above I can't get it wrong but it would feel better.

 

 

Nobody seem to know/care so I'll try to answer myself, after a bit of cursing climbing around in/over/under my car.

 

Shift cable IS NOT the one with the bigger ball joint (back on the box), it is the one with the smaller one and the yellow sticker. I learned this the hard way :-(

 

JohnTurbo's guide was really good but one small thing is missing in [color=rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;]21) [/color]

[color=rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;]21) Under the car, pass the gearbox bracket with cables attached up into the rough location. Hook the cables back onto the retention hook, and replace the retention bracket (2x philips).[/color]

[color=rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;]Don't forget to route the cables ABOVE the hand brake cable, otherwise you won't get the retention bracket back in place.[/color]



#15 gaffer1986

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Posted 10 March 2016 - 04:50 PM

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Is the removal of the gear assembly for the chassis essential if you want to replace the gear cables?



#16 gaffer1986

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Posted 12 March 2016 - 12:12 PM

OK, so having attempted it I would say it is necessary to remove the gear mechanism. Drilling rivets is where I stop so I will need to get someone to do this for me.



#17 thejoaoserra

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Posted 12 March 2016 - 03:55 PM

I haven't drilled the rivet, just play with it and the cables come out. Might need to open the golden part a little bit to get clearance but it can be put together as it was.



#18 gaffer1986

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Posted 12 March 2016 - 04:09 PM

Thanks for your advice :)

#19 Glenwood

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Posted 02 July 2017 - 10:39 AM

Hi guys this guide is well useful but any advice on how to set the cables up so you can get them in gears? Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk

#20 MartinS

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Posted 12 July 2017 - 09:14 AM

I am baffled why your changing the cables. They were brand new, expensive motorsport cable put on not long ago (its in the notes). You told me the cup had come off the ball but that's easy to solve?

Why change them again?

 

Martin S

 






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