45 replies to this topic

[dw1]

Initial bite doesn't always translate into quicker/better braking performance, but it does give a confidence and feeling thing that the car is really slowing. I find the rs14 get better with more heat and really giving it some on the brakes and agree they don't have the super sharp bite at the start, which in one way I prefer as it allows the weight to build progressively on the front of the car. Have you had a chance to get a data logger on it to test the braking and stopping distance - Harry's lap timer or something, or pref something with a 10hz gps sample rate for better accuracy. This will be the best way to see the effect. Glad you sound like you a pretty sorted with it.

[siztenboots]

get a G meter app for android , much more accurate than gps

[techieboy]

Only if it's rock solidly mounted though.

[Firthy]

Initial bite doesn't always translate into quicker/better braking performance, but it does give a confidence and feeling thing that the car is really slowing. I find the rs14 get better with more heat and really giving it some on the brakes and agree they don't have the super sharp bite at the start, which in one way I prefer as it allows the weight to build progressively on the front of the car. Have you had a chance to get a data logger on it to test the braking and stopping distance - Harry's lap timer or something, or pref something with a 10hz gps sample rate for better accuracy. This will be the best way to see the effect. Glad you sound like you a pretty sorted with it.

 

DW1 some very good points there   ..... "which in one way I prefer as it allows the weight to build progressively on the front of the car."   

 

I have quite soft springs Nitron Fast roads 375 475 and a very stiff ARB so if I am trail breaking on CL6's its going to get lairy quickly..... That is the main problem running soft spring rates and a stiff arb weight transfer to the front!

 

Luckily I can wind some more bump in on the 1 ways which helps stop the lurch but its no replacement for running bigger spring rates

 

I have a 10hz logger that I'm using to time but tbh I'm not that worried about digging in to the data

 

 Initial bite doesn't always translate into quicker/better braking performance   This very true as well

Edited by Firthy, 17 March 2014 - 04:06 PM.

[Captain Vimes]

 

 

Hi Captain! It's just the pads tbh as you found out! I had the BOT boys re-bleed the brakes I'm now very happy with the 2 pots ABS off. The RS14 are good pads nice modulation feel, but the PF and CL6's are just so much more aggressive and the initial bite at high speed is just on another level entirely. I am copying what Mark has on his race car, so will go cl6's next I think the general consensus is If you like a more solid brake pedal and an aggressive bite more trickier modulation go CL6 PF you already know about

Given the cost and reputation of the RS14's I had high hopes so it'll be a shame if I can't get these pads feeling a bit better on initial bite and the others have a reputation as wheels wreckers. I assume you're still using the RS14's at the moment?

 

 

Yes still using them, I have watched your Snetterton vids and your car seems to stop pretty well as you can see from my last outing at Silverstone mine stop okay although I am going to get Jez to double check them as the car seem to be pulling under braking a bit.

 

I think its just the characteristic of the pad and what you prefer, I am not a massively experienced track driver so I'm still learning a lot every track day I do. Talking to Jez about the problem after this thread he sat me down and explained how hard I needed to push on the pedal. TBH I really wasn't hitting the pedal hard enough so since I started working on my braking technique... I have enjoyed the pads a lot more. 

 

I am using so much more force on the middle pedal compared to what I used to (almost as hard as I can push) the car does stop well now I have relatively good feel and I don't lock up that often even in the wet they have pretty good modulation.

 

That said the initial bite doesn't seem as aggressive as the others, but tbh I'm a lot happier with the braking than I was.

 

Having driven Marks car and my friends on CL6 they are definately in a different league on initial bite and give a much more solid brake pedal feel... That said I would think they are a little more difficult to modulate in the wet

 

 

I've watched your video's too. Seems like we have a similar brake/suspension set up (except I don't have the ARB) and take a similar approach to trying to extract a decent lap from the NA - carry as much speed into and through the corner as possible to make up for the lack of straight line grunt   

 

I was able to out brake most people at Snetterton but like you say, I have to literally stand on the pedal. I'm encouraged that you're finding the same and Jez expects this from the pads too; it suggests that there's nothing wrong on the car at least but I'll be looking to change to another pad when the time comes. Maybe some different discs in the mean time as well.

 

While I'm generally happy with the pads I'm not sure I could lock the wheels up on a warm track day which suggests to me that there's more grip available and therefore potential to stop quicker. On my last car (E36 M3) I ran EBC yellow stuff pads and they were similar - wouldn't fade, had to stand on the pedal HARD, couldn't lock the wheels on track and stopped the car well BUT they were £90 a set  and not over £300 and the car weighed much more...

[Firthy]

Trust me on this... You need an 1inch ARB next it's such a good mod. Silverstone was the first time I had it on and the car and it felt brilliant can really push now! Its given the car brilliant balance and on the limit adjustability that it never had before... It used to snap oversteer in the fast stuff it's now more progressive

Edited by Firthy, 17 March 2014 - 09:40 PM.