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#21 jameso

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Posted 01 May 2013 - 02:00 PM

I have some reasonably expensive focals in my car (put in by Tony I guess) - and nothing made more difference to my sound than a stand alone sub. IMO: change to a better head unit with a built in amp and add a slim line sub somewhere and that is the most cost effective way of getting decent sound.

#22 D3YMO

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Posted 01 May 2013 - 02:06 PM

I have some reasonably expensive focals in my car (put in by Tony I guess) - and nothing made more difference to my sound than a stand alone sub. IMO: change to a better head unit with a built in amp and add a slim line sub somewhere and that is the most cost effective way of getting decent sound.


subs pic up different frequencies, so there always an improvement

are the focals amp'd?

#23 Zuber

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Posted 01 May 2013 - 02:07 PM

Thanks for the feedback guys. Just to clarify, it's not so much that I'd like it to be louder (I'd rather not slowly go deaf), than I'd like it to be clearer. The speakers are making loads of sound, but I can't make out what the guy/gal on Radio 4 is actually saying (at higher speeds). So would better rear speakers help with that, or is it to do with location of speakers, direction speaker sound is traveling vs other noise from engine/roof etc. ?

#24 badgerade

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Posted 01 May 2013 - 02:21 PM

I think 'better' would be relative to what you have in there now. I replaced the rubbish standard speakers with some £50 branded (can't remember what now though!) speakers and it made a big difference. If I was to replace these speakers with something costing £75 I doubt the difference would be as noticable.

#25 D3YMO

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Posted 01 May 2013 - 02:25 PM

Thanks for the feedback guys.

Just to clarify, it's not so much that I'd like it to be louder (I'd rather not slowly go deaf), than I'd like it to be clearer.

The speakers are making loads of sound, but I can't make out what the guy/gal on Radio 4 is actually saying (at higher speeds). So would better rear speakers help with that, or is it to do with location of speakers, direction speaker sound is traveling vs other noise from engine/roof etc. ?



too much noise in the cabin from engine, wind noise, road noise etc as you've said...

you'll never get crisp clear sound without amping and getting clean power to them

try and get a ride in another members car who has upgraded their system to something of the same spec you are considering - if it ticks the boxes, for what your wanting then great...if not you are going to be experimenting and may have invested in some shiney new equipment that doesnt give you what you want

everyones ear and opinion is different to what relates to a good/clear/quality sound, comes down to your taste

#26 D3YMO

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Posted 01 May 2013 - 02:26 PM

I think 'better' would be relative to what you have in there now. I replaced the rubbish standard speakers with some £50 branded (can't remember what now though!) speakers and it made a big difference. If I was to replace these speakers with something costing £75 I doubt the difference would be as noticable.


:yeahthat:

#27 fezzasus

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Posted 01 May 2013 - 02:29 PM

Thanks for the feedback guys.

Just to clarify, it's not so much that I'd like it to be louder (I'd rather not slowly go deaf), than I'd like it to be clearer.

The speakers are making loads of sound, but I can't make out what the guy/gal on Radio 4 is actually saying (at higher speeds). So would better rear speakers help with that, or is it to do with location of speakers, direction speaker sound is traveling vs other noise from engine/roof etc. ?


It's the location of the speakers, the front speakers add clarity without needing more volume. Haven't seen an issue with removing the vents, screen still clears quickly.

#28 LY_Scott

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Posted 01 May 2013 - 02:32 PM

It's the location of the speakers, the front speakers add clarity without needing more volume. Haven't seen an issue with removing the vents, screen still clears quickly.


Give the man a fiver. This is the correct answer thumbsup

#29 Tuuurtle

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Posted 01 May 2013 - 02:37 PM

It sounds like you need to improve the bass to allow the lower frequencies of voices to be heard over the drone of road and wind noise. I recommend a set of 6.5" coaxial speakers, no need to spend more than £50. £25 would suffice. Go for Alpine or Pioneer. I have a set of £50 Alpine speakers running off my headunit. I mounted my speakers onto an MDF ring (painted black) and then onto the speaker holes in the car. In theory that allows a firmer mounting point for the speakers so the bass comes out of the cone rather than just vibrating the panel behind the seats. These are available on eBay. I also have a set of DJ / audio ear plugs that are very good at removing the droning road noise frequencies without blocking music and voice. I got mine off Amazon for about £6 I think. They make a massive difference at motorway speeds.

#30 JamesC

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Posted 01 May 2013 - 02:43 PM

I think im going to go this way and pick up a set of aftermarket 6.5'' speakers and see how that goes. Ive spotted a reasonable looking and reasonably priced head unit:

http://www.halfords....yId_237503#tab1

Going on price only, it ticks my requirement for USB/iPhone inputs and ive heard of Kenwood. Id assume this will do the job, so long as its not in a horrible state from being on display?!

#31 wantsum

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Posted 01 May 2013 - 03:29 PM

I think im going to go this way and pick up a set of aftermarket 6.5'' speakers and see how that goes. Ive spotted a reasonable looking and reasonably priced head unit:

http://www.halfords....yId_237503#tab1

Going on price only, it ticks my requirement for USB/iPhone inputs and ive heard of Kenwood. Id assume this will do the job, so long as its not in a horrible state from being on display?!


I was going to suggest that head unit mate but some people like to spend silly money on them,
I got the JVC one a few weeks go from halfords which is good, didnt go for this as I dont have an
iphone, I can recommend alpine speakers both 6.5 inch and 4inch which are not silly money
and do the job. I can go down the motoway with roof off at 70mph :rolleyes: and still hear the radio thumbsup

#32 navx

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Posted 01 May 2013 - 05:03 PM

If you dont mind a bit od extra weight some carpets on top of acoustic felt reduces road noise. Also some strips of that sticky tar sheet material behind the rear panels next to the speakers reduces rattling. Improves the sound without making you deaf.

#33 turbobob

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Posted 01 May 2013 - 05:16 PM


It's the location of the speakers, the front speakers add clarity without needing more volume. Haven't seen an issue with removing the vents, screen still clears quickly.


Give the man a fiver. This is the correct answer thumbsup

How is taking your dash out and fcuking around installing front speakers / cabling for front speakers easier than replacing rear speakers? 4 screws out, unclip two wires, clips two wires to new speakers, put 4 screws back in.

I'm not disputing front speakers make a significant difference. But changing the rear speakers has to be the easiest and most effective solution.

#34 turbobob

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Posted 01 May 2013 - 05:17 PM

im not suggesting pairing something like a 1000w RMS amp with some 50w RMS speakers, but a little more power than rated is not a bad thing

my comment applies more when adding amps into the mix, overpowering is fine as long as you are careful with the gains...

your less likely to stress amps and send clipping signals to speakers/subs, which causes distrotion

please take back the misleading comment, or you may be flamed for misleading :lol:

Your comment read (to me) as if you send too small a signal into the speakers you will damage them.

Anyway ...... :P

clipping is more of a processing issue. I.e. the level is are attempted to be amplified beyond the supply voltage. The result is the audio signal (for arguments sake a sine wave) has the round part of the top of the signal clipped to a flat level which corresponds to the supply voltage.

Edited by turbobob, 01 May 2013 - 05:20 PM.


#35 ghand

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Posted 01 May 2013 - 05:18 PM

I have a pair of 6x9s and a pair of 6s mounted behind the seat with each off a separate headset output of 50 watt and if you turn the thing much past half volume it will take your ears out and make your eyes bleed,quality is good enough for my rock music and I can not see the need for much more expense in a car but each to his own. After all the 6x9s are only 12" from your brain.Its all about air movement at the end of the day,piddly little speakers are NFG.

#36 fezzasus

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Posted 01 May 2013 - 05:25 PM



It's the location of the speakers, the front speakers add clarity without needing more volume. Haven't seen an issue with removing the vents, screen still clears quickly.


Give the man a fiver. This is the correct answer thumbsup

How is taking your dash out and fcuking around installing front speakers / cabling for front speakers easier than replacing rear speakers? 4 screws out, unclip two wires, clips two wires to new speakers, put 4 screws back in.

I'm not disputing front speakers make a significant difference. But changing the rear speakers has to be the easiest and most effective solution.


I agree that if you have the original speakers, the first thing is to pull them out and chuck them in the bin. However spending any more than £50 on the rear speakers is pointless as the sound is still coming from behind you, your ears arn't as sensitive from behind and will only pick up lower frequencies, so you'll still lose vocal resolution.

#37 turbobob

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Posted 01 May 2013 - 05:31 PM

RMS is still rubbish as they are rated at 14v and cars use 12v.. but yes it is still the most accurate way of looking (not taking ohms into count) I hate speakers

Not true stuwy. RMS stands for Root Mean Square. And power is an equation relating to both voltage and current. So RMS Power = Irms x Vrms

#38 drunknmunky

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Posted 01 May 2013 - 05:33 PM

I have a pair of 6x9s and a pair of 6s mounted behind the seat with each off a separate headset output of 50 watt and if you turn the thing much past half volume it will take your ears out and make your eyes bleed,quality is good enough for my rock music and I can not see the need for much more expense in a car but each to his own. After all the 6x9s are only 12" from your brain.Its all about air movement at the end of the day,piddly little speakers are NFG.


Did you mount the 6x9's vertically into the plastic aswell as the coax's or have some separate mounts onto the tray section? Was considering doing this as I have a pair from my old car but wasn't sure if the plastic would take the weight of 4 speakers?

#39 turbobob

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Posted 01 May 2013 - 05:33 PM




It's the location of the speakers, the front speakers add clarity without needing more volume. Haven't seen an issue with removing the vents, screen still clears quickly.


Give the man a fiver. This is the correct answer thumbsup

How is taking your dash out and fcuking around installing front speakers / cabling for front speakers easier than replacing rear speakers? 4 screws out, unclip two wires, clips two wires to new speakers, put 4 screws back in.

I'm not disputing front speakers make a significant difference. But changing the rear speakers has to be the easiest and most effective solution.


I agree that if you have the original speakers, the first thing is to pull them out and chuck them in the bin. However spending any more than £50 on the rear speakers is pointless as the sound is still coming from behind you, your ears arn't as sensitive from behind and will only pick up lower frequencies, so you'll still lose vocal resolution.

I agree with that.

But given the sheer amount of noise in the cabin and the poor accoustics IMHO any extra effort isn't really worth it. Which is why I haven't fitted front speakers. No doubt I'll get in a VX one day with front speakers and I'll be ripping my dash out :lol:

#40 Goosenka

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Posted 01 May 2013 - 05:37 PM


RMS is still rubbish as they are rated at 14v and cars use 12v.. but yes it is still the most accurate way of looking (not taking ohms into count) I hate speakers

Not true stuwy. RMS stands for Root Mean Square. And power is an equation relating to both voltage and current. So RMS Power = Irms x Vrms

Always wondered that Bob. Thanks for explaining it scuffers style




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