52 replies to this topic

[Goosenka]

Don't stress about the temp. London is a great place at rush hour in the summer to check fan and rad condition. Engine runs too cool in my opinion anyway.

[slindborg]

Exactly, its a hot running design

[Benzola]

Thanks so much for all the comments, assurance & feedback. Looks like a manual fan switch in the cabin is best bet. A £3 mod and VERY worthwhile. Here is link to Munchers superb guide, cheers folks. Ben.

http://www.vx220.org...8-fan-override/

[Boombang]

Exactly, its a hot running design

 

Still baffles me why people seem to panic so much with a VX and temperature - ok so the majority of other cars have a gauge and not a number, but every car I have owned will happily sit showing between 100-115 degrees on the gauge all day long.

 

The fact that it's a pressurised system and is supposed to run over 100 degrees seems to slip peoples minds.

[Benzola]

Exactly, its a hot running design

  Still baffles me why people seem to panic so much with a VX and temperature - ok so the majority of other cars have a gauge and not a number, but every car I have owned will happily sit showing between 100-115 degrees on the gauge all day long.   The fact that it's a pressurised system and is supposed to run over 100 degrees seems to slip peoples minds.

Fair point Boombang. My bewilderment arose as first time I've hit these temps & (as previous) the smell of a baking engine is - generally - cause for slight concern. I know now (thanks to you guys). Still doing manual fan switch mod though! Ben :-)

Edited by Benzola, 18 May 2013 - 02:02 PM.

[Boombang]

What you might just be smelling is a slightly weepy rad and/or leaky bleed nipple.

 

My second VX always had a hot engine smell, after a few months found the rad was weeping and had it replace.

[Zoobeef]

You may have some air trapped in the system somewhere. Hence the level raising when you release the pressure.

[Benzola]

You may have some air trapped in the system somewhere. Hence the level raising when you release the pressure.

Level raising was more like a high pressure torrent of magma! Expansion went from 1/3 to over 1/2 full in a couple of seconds. Best route for clearing trapped air?

Edited by Benzola, 18 May 2013 - 02:22 PM.

[Benzola]

What you might just be smelling is a slightly weepy rad and/or leaky bleed nipple.   My second VX always had a hot engine smell, after a few months found the rad was weeping and had it replace.

Worthy point. Will investigate.

[Goosenka]

You may have some air trapped in the system somewhere. Hence the level raising when you release the pressure.

Level raising was more like a high pressure torrent of magma! Expansion went from 1/3 to over 1/2 full in a couple of seconds. Best route for clearing trapped air?

Passenger side in the front. Use the bleed valve on the hose that goes to radiator.

[Benzola]

You may have some air trapped in the system somewhere. Hence the level raising when you release the pressure.

Level raising was more like a high pressure torrent of magma! Expansion went from 1/3 to over 1/2 full in a couple of seconds. Best route for clearing trapped air?

Passenger side in the front. Use the bleed valve on the hose that goes to radiator.

Sound advise! Cheers Goose. Hot or cold before bleed (I'm assuming hot). Ben.

[Kenni]

 

Exactly, its a hot running design

 

Still baffles me why people seem to panic so much with a VX and temperature - ok so the majority of other cars have a gauge and not a number, but every car I have owned will happily sit showing between 100-115 degrees on the gauge all day long.

 

The fact that it's a pressurised system and is supposed to run over 100 degrees seems to slip peoples minds.

 

 

I have an 2.2 Zafira B, so basically a similar engine as the vx220.  There is NO temperature gauge anywhere on the dash to indicate how hot its running, could be running at 101c all day every day for all i know.  So if you dont see it you wont think about it.  

 

 

[jonnyboy]

The car will sort itself out the only weak point is the rads dont really function ideally with been sat flat hence the issues with hotspots/leaks (on both ali and oem rads) The OEM bleed nipple is probably responsible for more problems than rads! 

[Anarchy]

I had a rad blow so fitted a switch for peace of mind, very rarely use it but its nice to know its there if stuck in standing traffic for too long.  I get the same hot coolant smell too.

[Benzola]

You may have some air trapped in the system somewhere. Hence the level raising when you release the pressure.

Level raising was more like a high pressure torrent of magma! Expansion went from 1/3 to over 1/2 full in a couple of seconds. Best route for clearing trapped air?

Passenger side in the front. Use the bleed valve on the hose that goes to radiator.

Ok. So I just attempted to bleed the system. Bled from both nipples in engine bay... Fine... But when bleeding from radiator nipple... Nowt! Was expecting a satisfying hiss, followed by a "squirt" of coolant... But dry as a bone & no hiss (still dry with bleed nipple totally removed, tried with both expansion cap on & off). Surely this isn't right? With engine running... coolant is returning to expansion tank & the radiator gets hot, so there is a "circuit" pumping through? Comments pls folks.

[Boombang]

Is that with the engine up to working temp?  Bleeding must be done hot.

[Benzola]

Is that with the engine up to working temp?  Bleeding must be done hot.

Cheers for getting back to me Boombang. Yep. Bled at working temp. Also did the old "squeeze every pipe with engine running and expansion tank cap off" routine. Re-fitted cap. Bled again. Radiator Nipple bleed still dry. Even tried blowing into expansion tank. Now thinking I may fabricate a cap with a valve on it (from an old inner tube). Slightly overfill expansion, fit it, bring up to temp, open all bleed valves, force pressure through system with foot pump... Theoretically blowing out all air locks.

[Sticky]

Is your rad hot/warm with coolant flowing through?

Edited by Sticky, 19 May 2013 - 06:40 PM.

[Benzola]

Is your rad hot/warm with coolant flowing through?

Rad is hot. After 5-8 mins ticking over. Tick over temp stable around 85-92.

[Benzola]

Is your rad hot/warm with coolant flowing through?

Rad is hot. After 5-8 mins ticking over. Tick over temp stable around 85-92.

Coolant appears to be flowing through, as it is returning to expansion tank (top hose). Can't hear it gushing with ear to rad (plus rad too hot to put ear too!).