77 replies to this topic

[slindborg]

I'm just a clown though lol

[Mangham54]

Electricians have a decent knowledge base - but microprocessors and circuit boards are generallly their forte. You might want to look more at Electrical Engineering.

[slindborg]

Wiring a house etc, (eg mains) is electrtical

doing vehicle wiring is electrical

pissing about with sillycone and resistors, thats electronics.

Then there is the bit that fixes all of the above (unless it cant and then its the aboves fault), Software

[siztenboots]

blame the DSP programmer

[Mangham54]

Electricians have a decent knowledge base - but microprocessors and circuit boards are generallly their forte. You might want to look more at Electrical Engineering.

 

Ignore my post above, what I had in my head does not match what I wrote.

[JohnR]

I suspect the designer of the circuit has probably connected the neutral in the mains side to the earth on the DC side (via a capacitor) to protect against current spikes.

 

The spikes will be caused due to the DC voltage on the output from the charger floating at a different potential to the (floating) voltage on the car. When you initially connect the charger to the car a current spike will be produced as the voltages align, The capacitor will absorb this spike and the current will be passed down the neutral core back to mains and protect any short blow fuses etc. on the car.

 

Vocky,

I wouldn't expect there to be 47VAC from the car to the mains earth, but this could be explained by the type of meter you are using. If the meter is a true RMS meter (the more expensive ones) then the measurement you are seeing could be a combination of DC and AC, i.e if the DC voltage between the car and mains is around 47VDC and there is a small ripple voltage at 50Hz (mains frequency) then you could well read 47VAC on your meter. If you got a peak to peak meter the VAC reading should be virtually 0VAC.

To check this you could try measuring the DC voltage between the car and the mains earth, it may initially read around 47VDC and will then discharge through the meter back to 0V.

 

As far as getting shocks go, the diffuser on the car is an ideal place to build up static, what material is it?

For the shock from the diffuser/brake disk is it everytime you touch it or just occasionally?

The most likely cause of the shock is static build up, but if you get the shock every time you touch the diffuser/brake disk and only when the charger is attached then it is difficult to diagnose without the circuit diagram.

 

Hope this helps.

[turbobob]

 

I wish I knew more about this magic you people talk of

Must be the first person ever to wish he was more like turboknob

 

Thanks George

 

To be fair, I wouldn't want to be like me either

 

Mark, I think you have more than enough knowledge. How many people do you know who could rewire their house?

[turbobob]

Wiring a house etc, (eg mains) is electrtical

doing vehicle wiring is electrical

pissing about with sillycone and resistors, thats electronics.

Then there is the bit that fixes all of the above (unless it cant and then its the aboves fault), Software

Pffft. Software is usually full of bugs and causes us no end of problems. What seems to be faulty we look for problems with parts, then some bright spark comes along and says "oh I've done a software update" and hey presto it works

[ghand]

I suspect the designer of the circuit has probably connected the neutral in the mains side to the earth on the DC side (via a capacitor) to protect against current spikes.

 

The spikes will be caused due to the DC voltage on the output from the charger floating at a different potential to the (floating) voltage on the car. When you initially connect the charger to the car a current spike will be produced as the voltages align, The capacitor will absorb this spike and the current will be passed down the neutral core back to mains and protect any short blow fuses etc. on the car.

 

Vocky,

I wouldn't expect there to be 47VAC from the car to the mains earth, but this could be explained by the type of meter you are using. If the meter is a true RMS meter (the more expensive ones) then the measurement you are seeing could be a combination of DC and AC, i.e if the DC voltage between the car and mains is around 47VDC and there is a small ripple voltage at 50Hz (mains frequency) then you could well read 47VAC on your meter. If you got a peak to peak meter the VAC reading should be virtually 0VAC.

To check this you could try measuring the DC voltage between the car and the mains earth, it may initially read around 47VDC and will then discharge through the meter back to 0V.

 

As far as getting shocks go, the diffuser on the car is an ideal place to build up static, what material is it?

For the shock from the diffuser/brake disk is it everytime you touch it or just occasionally?

The most likely cause of the shock is static build up, but if you get the shock every time you touch the diffuser/brake disk and only when the charger is attached then it is difficult to diagnose without the circuit diagram.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Thats what i said earlier but in a much  less complicated way for beginners    AC ripple on the DC and the meter reading crap

 

 

[slindborg]

Wiring a house etc, (eg mains) is electrtical doing vehicle wiring is electrical pissing about with sillycone and resistors, thats electronics. Then there is the bit that fixes all of the above (unless it cant and then its the aboves fault), Software

Pffft. Software is usually full of bugs and causes us no end of problems. What seems to be faulty we look for problems with parts, then some bright spark comes along and says "oh I've done a software update" and hey presto it works

"Oh yeah we forgot to fit the pull up resistors" silly tin melters.

[turbobob]

Personally I like a good floater

[ghand]

Personally I like a good floater

 

Your being a Burden now Bob

[turbobob]

that's shocking Gordon!

[vocky]

So with the same AVO meter it read 60v AC tonight and would not give a DC reading, with another meter it gave 59v AC and 25 - 33mV DC

Edited by vocky, 06 November 2013 - 09:17 PM.

[turbobob]

Avo? Fecking hell. Really

 

Can you remind me what you are measuring? 

[vocky]

Avo? Fecking hell. Really

 

Can you remind me what you are measuring? 

yes it's old, but it's reliable 

 

Which is why I found the other meter, which looks identical to this Fluke 

 

http://www.gbeelectr...emart&Itemid=72

[vocky]

measuring between a wheel nut and mains earth 

[turbobob]

Avo's are like rocking horse sh*t,  expensive and bloody good. I wasn't knocking it's just rare to hear on someone using one. 

 

Mmmm. They are so far isolated I just think different floating voltages. Isn't the hub attached via wishbone via rubber bush to the chassis?