60 replies to this topic

[Acidpopstar]

Searched the forum and found very useful threads so have been trying to fix this today.

 

Basically the EML has been coming on and then going into limp mode. Immediately turning engine of and on again cures the limp mode but EML stays on. Seems to come on with spirited driving and enthusiastic use of the throttle as I manage to do my 100 mile commute sat at 65mph without problems.

 

Plugged the OBD thingamajig in thanks to Steve (Crabash) and came up error P1271 again. As advised in other threads I took apart the loom of doom connectors, cleaned and WD40'd them but no improvement. Then spent the rest of the afternoon assuming the position upside down, head in foot well taking the socket apart that goes into accelerator pedal. Bugger to get to but did it eventually. Was definite corrosion on one of the pins so cleaned and WD40'd them. Put back together, Steve plugged laptop in and cleared error codes, started it and accelerator worked. Was just about to drive off and Steve suggested turning off and on again to make sure. Did that and accelerator pedal stopped working! Cleared error codes again, took apart socket and put back together again a few times but no better. Error is P1271 no APP sensor recognised. So it's now stuck at Steve's.

 

As it's my only car now I am in urgent need of getting it running again. I think it basically needs an whole new socket but you have to buy an entire accelerator pedal to get the 'pin' side of the socket and not sure where to get the female side. Would rather not have to take it to an auto electrician so just wondering if anyone has an accelerator pedal lying around and / or the other half of the socket.  

 

Hope this makes sense. As always, I would welcome .orgs advice.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

 

 

[fezzasus]

I'd expand it to cleaning the ECU plugs and cleaning the throttle body plugs before trying to replace the throttle pedal connector.

[smiley]

How about the connector under the header tank, and on the throttlebody itself?

Check and clean those too.

[Crabash]

We were looking at the above too, one of the connectors done, time ran out in the end anyway. There has been some wiring altered with the blue and black plugs. Neil has a pic, the one on throttle pedal has deffinate bad corrosion on second from bottom pin, plug side. Not sure on condition of corresponding pin. Ran the throttle body actuation from opcom, that works and the pedal position voltage does change when depressed. Actual fault says no correlation.

[smiley]

Can you swap the TB itself as a test?

 

[Crabash]

Dont have a spare. Did check that plug too. Im at work all weekend, maybe Ivan can help out as he has an NA too.

[ciderbooze]

X22 blue plug is the one that carries the pedal wires I think . The pedal end is made up of two pots and the ecu compares the readings from both and decides if they make sense ( one offset from the other by a fixed amount?) no correlation may suggest that the ecu has decided that they don't make sense. I that corrosion can't be helping

[siztenboots]

Two pots with resistance ranges r-R and 2r-2R

[Acidpopstar]

 

[Acidpopstar]

Above is a pic of the altered wiring on blue and black plugs. Ivan, if you have any time over weekend I would appreciate your guidance

[fezzasus]

That wiring looks a mess. I would set it back to how it should be before continuing to trouble shoot.

[ciderbooze]

Bit difficult to see on the phone , what are the colours of the wires that have been messed with in that pic? Any continuity checks been done?

[smiley]

Your wiring seems to be making a fast u-turn.

 

Here's how they are stuck oem.

Edited by smiley, 14 March 2014 - 09:21 AM.

[Acidpopstar]

Bit difficult to see on the phone , what are the colours of the wires that have been messed with in that pic? Any continuity checks been done?

Will have to check colour of dodgy wiring when I finally get car towed back to mine. Don't know what a continuity check is or how to do one...

[ciderbooze]

Watch the front towing eye it's made of cheese. Continuity checks would verify the electrical connection from one end of the cable to the other. It may be worth charging your battery as well if you have tried multiple starts with little/no running.

[Crabash]

If you are still stuck on monday Im back down from sunday night after work. Blag some help or loan some gear off Ivan and Im sure we can sort it. I would still consider trying to get or borrow a known good throttle pedal though.

[Crabash]

Cant remember the wiring bodge properly but Im sure there aas a wire or 2 linked from one plug to the other or cut off o e plug and spliced into a wire from the other.

[fezzasus]

 

Bit difficult to see on the phone , what are the colours of the wires that have been messed with in that pic? Any continuity checks been done?

Will have to check colour of dodgy wiring when I finally get car towed back to mine. Don't know what a continuity check is or how to do one...

 

 

It's checking that the wire is connected along the whole length. Simple ways to do it are a multi-meter on a resistance measurement (0/v low resistance = wire isn't broken) or a bulb and low power battery, using the wire you're testing as part of the circuit.

[ciderbooze]

I don't mind you using my gear ( multimeter , contact cleaner, tools etc) at all. it's time that I am short of at the moment though.

[slindborg]

£10 says its not the throttle pedal

 

remove (CAREFULLY!!!!!) the plugs on the ECU and check for corrosion. there have been cases where the pins corrode off completely so watch out.