289 replies to this topic

[sworks]

Brand new one ready to go on    (if I ever get around to starting this   , or more importantly, I am actually capable of finishing it)

[fezzasus]

You can do it, it's easy really. I casually did one a couple of weekends ago in 30 hours or so. start to finish.

 

 

[sworks]

I would imagine your spannering skills are a little better than mine Tom

 

Fancy casually doing mine then Only kidding. Pretty sure I have a good idea, just need to ask some questions from time to time that's all

[fezzasus]

all I'd say is:

 

1. Make sure the bolts at the bottom of the boot come out

 

2. Strip all the loom tape off the wiring loom and locate the connectors where you want them, you'll see you only need to extend five wires in total (three injectors one on the MAP, one on the fuel vent). Just cutting and extending without seeing if there's enough length already will introduce more points of potential failure.

[sworks]

Thanks mate 

 

Had the clam off a few times, so hoping all bolts should come out fairly easily. Going to sort the CC and pipe work this weekend and hopefully do it in stages.

 

Think I have just about every guide and image printed off in a folder ready, as am prepared

[sworks]

Relatively productive day, despite some stubborn bolts. Had to cut these off, including the the two at the front and bottom of the clam (the bolts that screw in horizontally towards the outside of the car). For anyone that has had to cut these (the plate they screw into was spinning, so next to useless) how did you re-secure these when the clam goes back on?

[fezzasus]

Jack nuts.

[FLD]

http://www.memfast.c...?cat=2257001824

[sworks]

Perfect thanks. Assume these work in a similar way to cavity fixings for plasterboard walls!?

[Steve.i.am]

I put a dayco belt on mine. Now done 3000 miles no problems at all.

[sworks]

Thanks Steve. 

 

Guess they are all much of a muchness. Pretty much consumable items at their price anyway

[sworks]

Any hints or tips for getting the 3 bolts/screws out that hold the rad surround to the crash box (the 3 that are closest the windscreen):

The one on the offside is virtually impossible to get at due to brake lines (and some bright spark thought Phillips headed bolt was a good idea)

Thanks

[fezzasus]

Small ratchet with a philips head.

 

[sworks]

That's what I'm trying. Brake lines make one of them impossible to get at. Will just keep trying i guess. Cheers

[fezzasus]

The bolts go into c clips so worst case you can dremel them off.

 

I didn't refit the one under the brake servo because life's too short.

[sworks]

Cheers Tom. Dremel has been out and put to good use. Just no way of getting a cutting disk anyway near the pain bolt.

[Steve.i.am]

Had same problem. I dremelled the c clip in half and undid it by turning that. Didn't put that bolt back in on re-assembly either.

[fezzasus]

Just had a look at mine, assuming you're working using the same halfords kit as most people you'll need the small ratchet, small extension bar, adaptor for the screw heads and a large cross head. That should do it.

[fezzasus]

and probably a tea while the penetrating oil does its job.

[sworks]

Dremel, hacksaw, sharp chisel, a mallet and a little swearing et voila (the bugger is most definitely not going back on!!!!!):