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My Repair And Improve Project - Pic Heavy


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#81 ross16i16

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Posted 27 June 2015 - 02:02 PM

Ross1616, it's some universal honeycomb grill. I brought 90 cm by 40 cm of this one http://www.ebay.co.u...=item4acffc40f1 , as it has some depth to it. It's fibreglassed into place from behind, so needs clam off. There's also a screw through the number plate section holding a bracket the other side.

 

Thanks for the info thumbsup

 

 

Just need to find some time, but waiting on my V from the UC group buy too



#82 T VXT

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Posted 01 July 2015 - 01:22 PM

Are you on std internals? What hp are you running?

  It's has leh internals (from a 09 car with currently 26/27K on them) so forged pistons and the leh conrods, which generally take a bit more power than the let conrods. This may be down to the improved under piston cooling though.   Courtenay "recommend that OE rods are replaced as follows: Z20LET/LEL/LER - 300bhp Z20LEH - 310 - 320bhp" http://www.courtenay.../prod_1076.html bhp wise - dyno lottery so ~300 but with a wider powerband than normal stage 4

#83 Nev

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Posted 01 July 2015 - 02:38 PM

I'm pretty sure the LEH and LET cons rods are identical. I'm surprised you didn't put a cheap set of £200 Bulgarian/Lithuanian/Chinese rods in whilst you were changing the pistons. If you had you'd be much safer.


Edited by Nev, 01 July 2015 - 02:39 PM.


#84 VXT Tim

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Posted 01 July 2015 - 02:39 PM

What red light flicked on as you hit/almost hit the limiter in 2nd?

#85 Nev

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Posted 01 July 2015 - 02:40 PM

What red light flicked on as you hit/almost hit the limiter in 2nd?

 

The extremely irritating one on the centre of the stack unit I would guess. I get it ALL the time, as I think it triggers at about 6700 RPM and it is most distracting. I have heard that it is near impossible to eliminate, if anyone knows a way, please let me know. I have even considered taking the stack off and crushing the bulb !!  


Edited by Nev, 01 July 2015 - 02:41 PM.


#86 VXT Tim

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Posted 01 July 2015 - 02:43 PM

Lol What red light is it though, oil/battery?

#87 T VXT

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Posted 01 July 2015 - 02:59 PM

What red light flicked on as you hit/almost hit the limiter in 2nd?

Nev, Tim is not referring to the red gear change light in the rev counter (~6.7K rpm). It was the coolant level light on the right side of stack. I changed the coolant sensor for a new one during the rebuild and it hasn't fit as snuggly as it should (it doesn't push into the coolant tank fully by a few mm) and therefore it's a bit temperamental. So on the gear change as coolant lushed forward away from the sensor, it flicks on the low level light, but the coolant is at the right level when at a stand still.

#88 T VXT

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Posted 01 July 2015 - 03:50 PM

I'm pretty sure the LEH and LET cons rods are identical. I'm surprised you didn't put a cheap set of £200 Bulgarian/Lithuanian/Chinese rods in whilst you were changing the pistons. If you had you'd be much safer.

I've seen comments to say they are the same, and to say there are different. There is loads of astra vxr's running over 300 with no rod problems, I remember danger7 mentioning a 400bhp German speedster with standard leh rods (probably had rod bolts upgraded though). Actually, I think danger7 is still running standard leh internals (in a c20let block) with a GT2871RS at around 360bhp. The key issue is to avoid det as this will push past the limits of the rods. I swapped the whole let for a leh, so I also got the leh head with improved cooling and different exhaust valves - I didn't open up the bottom end. How much is the rough cost of the rod swap? I wouldn't do it myself. I thought it is a lot of work - mani's off, exhaust off, head off, bottom off, new gaskets everywhere etc etc.

Edited by T VXT, 01 July 2015 - 03:55 PM.


#89 stu8v

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Posted 02 July 2015 - 06:16 AM

I'd rather stick with oe than random quality crap.

#90 T VXT

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Posted 02 July 2015 - 09:43 AM

If I was to do it, I would do it properly and not buy cheap rods. I much prefer to spend twice the money on something which is known to be perfect.   But to swap the rods is basically a full engine rebuild and it's just not needed on a relatively young, low mileage LEH engine where I'm not pushing the boundaries. Countenays fit hybrid turbo's to the astra vxr without doing any internal work, but they won't do it on a LET without the internal work.   The first thing to go on the standard LET engine is the pistons and the LEH has addressed this and a few other bits too http://www.courtenay...t/info_121.html

#91 stu8v

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Posted 02 July 2015 - 09:53 AM

Thats my thoughts too.

#92 siztenboots

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Posted 02 July 2015 - 09:59 AM

let and leh rods+bolts are the same crank is not ( let has the ring gear to drive balancer shafts ) let block has a better casting let block waterways give more support to the bore so pegging not needed leh has better cooling potential in the cylinder head design leh pistons are better material

#93 T VXT

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Posted 02 July 2015 - 10:31 AM

Thanks sizten, the leh pistons are also lighter and have the under piston oil spray jets. The exhaust valves are also different somehow.  

 

Currently my engine is not pushing anything past normally tuning in probably 1000's of astra's and IMO this level of tune and is about the perfect balance of performance and reliability in a turbo vx.   

 

Next step up would be a K06 hybrid, but what's the point it in ~£1,200 (turbo + map) to gain ~10hp.

 

Any further would need full engine rebuild and a K16 hybrid or a bigger turbo with manifold/exhaust and the loss of low end torque, which I quite like.  

 

Currently my vx is the best it's ever been in both handling and performance and as much as I would enjoy 400hp, everything has both up and downsides. 

 

And however fast a car you have you, it will become normal to you and then you will want more again.....

 

.... the answer get a cheap superbike

 



#94 T VXT

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Posted 08 March 2016 - 10:53 PM

Following on from my last statement, instead of making the vx any faster I gone for a cheaper (but not more sensible) alternative....

Posted Image

Not quite a superbike but only 172kg + 65kg (me) with ~100 horses at the rear wheel, it's quick enough.

#95 Nev

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Posted 09 March 2016 - 03:55 PM

Ha ha, lots of fun on one of those I am sure. :)

 



#96 NDT

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Posted 10 March 2016 - 10:23 PM

Coping ok with an inter cooler not charge cooler?

#97 T VXT

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Posted 26 February 2019 - 02:18 PM

Long time no chat...

 

I'm still on the big intercooler and for 99% of driving I have no complaints. 

 

The only place I have felt power dropping off is long straights on track days after a few laps, so of course it does have it's limits.

 

So if you were a regular track day driver who doesn't show his car any sympathy, it could frustrate you. However I don't mind hammering it up to 120mph(ish) and letting it have a little rest until I get to the next fun bit...

 

I cant justify the ~£2k for the charge cooler.


Edited by T VXT, 26 February 2019 - 02:21 PM.


#98 T VXT

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Posted 26 February 2019 - 02:32 PM

Some updates on the car.
 
Its had a full new set of quantum's has there was a squeaking issue with them. Quantum honoured the guarantee outside the 1 year, which was good of them.
 
The ertacetal wishbone bushes don't seem to last very long as I've needed both rears to be replaced.

Then it's had some big jobs this year to keep it in good shape. Steering rack has been replaced and the pain in the arse brake lines in the sills have been replaced.
 

Still going strong :happy:






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