1266 replies to this topic

[Rosssco]

Have you concerns about the emissions side? I was under the impression the A20 engine would easily pass the Euro 3 classification of the existing chassis.. Or do they test (in Germany) based on the engine type / model itself?

[Doctor Ed]

connected up the pixie tubes for the 044. fused 30A relay triggered off the OEM pump loom with AWG16. should be good for a continuous 12A (4Bar) with only a minor loss over the short runs of cable in that sub loom.

[Doctor Ed]

Have you concerns about the emissions side? I was under the impression the A20 engine would easily pass the Euro 3 classification of the existing chassis.. Or do they test (in Germany) based on the engine type / model itself?

nah, it'll be tested to meet the requirements of the chassis, so the A20 will walk it in, but i do need a functioning cat. i dont think itll be an issues, its not that far wawy from the turbo outlet. just closer is better

[Doctor Ed]

tank, fittings, lines (inc new olives, d'oh!) pump, wiring, everything, finished, torqued. this little corner is done

Edited by Doctor Ed, 28 September 2017 - 06:18 PM.

[Doctor Ed]

after a couple of false starts, got me a belt that fits. PK5 880 (continental) runs on the back ribs of the harmonic balancer



And note to players at home, that's a 10mm square drive for the tensioner pulley arm, but a 3/8" socket drive fits in there just fine.

[Doctor Ed]

And finally got the balls to do this...

The engine bay really lacked space for the PWR W2A core. You could stuff it off to the side in a sill but the pipework becomes pretty ridiculous and cramped, and as I'm hoping to run most of the intercooler piping as 2.5-3" I wanted to keep the pipe runs short and simple.

So, adios firewall. Left behind is a pretty deceptive space. The triangle produced by extending the fuel tank bulkhead is 21deg and narrows quite dramatically. Fitting a round object in there isn't particularly efficient, but with a bit of fcuking around it should all fit in quite neatly.

On the up side, there's plenty of room for a new harness bar







Also re-welded (again!) the hardtop roof mounts to the roll bar. No pics as it's pretty mundane, but essentially got them to within 1mm of OEM, and everything Lines/bolts up. That said, I checked the diagonals on evererything too this evening... windscreen is dead straight, so that's a good, but the roll bar is about 6mm too far back on the right side. The rear stays aren't in/made yet, so that's going to change things considerably, still was surprised that it's that far out just as is.

Edited by Doctor Ed, 04 October 2017 - 12:54 AM.

[Rosssco]

Nice cabin heater

[Exmantaa]

Rear stays will change/fix the roll bar angle considerablly.

(3" intercooler piping is pretty big, as it's pressurised air...)

[Doctor Ed]

yeah, its pretty big, most will be 2.5", but the W2A core is 3" so there'll be a transition up and down in size. ist all quite chunky none the less

[tibby]

Oem vxt piping : Turbo to IC = 2" IC to tophat = 2.25" Think for really high power 3 inch = good! Nipper also got 3 inch i believe for IC routing Found Nipper's breathing :-) Breathing Bespoke tubular equal length exhaust manifold (Nortech). Home made 'bee-hive' airbox with 2 OEM paper air filters. Garrett GTX 3071R turbo. Klassen cast aluminium inlet manifold with short fat tapered runners. Port matched inlet manifold gasket. Enlarged Bosch throttle-body, from 57mm to 70mm. Enlarged 3 top hat. Bespoke 3.5 exhaust. Modified OEM boost pipe from turbo, from 50mm to 70mm pipe. Enlarged inlet pipe-work (102mm) from air box to turbo inlet Enlarged boost pipe-work, steps from 51mm to 70mm from turbo to CC, 76mm from CC onward.

Edited by tibby, 04 October 2017 - 06:11 PM.

[Doctor Ed]

yeah, thats about what mine will end up looking like. 76mm/3" is pretty big - not only from and airflow point of view, but simply the space needed to run 3" pipework and bends is mental.

 

Im only wanting 340hp ish out of this, so should be fine for purpose

[Doctor Ed]

had the jackstands out, the sun was shining, and i happened to have the good camera gear in the car...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Doctor Ed]

Been brewing over undertray aero... I'm wanting to mount the longest steepest diffuser i can pack into the rear under the GT3 rear bodywork, and I want it to pump, so i have been thinking a bit about air control along the floor entering into it. The floorpan is pretty much a dead-flat saltlake, so I want to make the most of what's there whilst realising the limits of working with what I've got. Splitter design I've got a few ideas, but in terms of the diffuser, I thought I'd give these things a crack...

Ignoring the 'fuel-saver' marketing jazz, these little buggers are pretty damn good vortex generators (each tab creates 2 decent sized siamesed counter-rotating vortices). Planning a line of them, located late along the flat floorpan say 20cm before the leading edge of the diffuser. Idea being that they themselves drop local pressure a little, but more importantly they'll energise the boundary layer entering the diffuser, and let me use every degree and cm length of it.



May also try something similar along the sill-lines to help seal the sides. I'm planning turning vanes behind the front wheel wells (which themselves may throw off a vortex) so not sure. But that's the direction of thinking at least.

[Doctor Ed]

Mundane progress is still progress... both the replacement clutch cyl and the Saab donor chassis use some funky quick disconnect system, along with an integrated bleeder fitting. Lotus/vx std clutch line uses M10 flare fittings.

So. Made up some replacement hardlines, bought a 3-way brass fitting and a bleeder nipple. Done-ski.

Now, I was planning on mounting the box to the motor, and dropping it all as a single unit into the engine bay, but I'm thinking I might actually get the box and driveshafts in first, and get everything hooked up and working (including clutch hydraulics etc). There should then still be enough room to slot the engine in, along with enough wiggle-room to get the input shaft through the clutch into the flywheel etc. I can see me swearing about this and regretting it later, but it'll get the box out of the way plus let me get a bunch of other stuff in that corner done too

[vocky]

the original vx220 alloy clutch fitting simply clips straight onto the M32 clutch slave pipe, then all you need is a new pipe from that to the flexi hose

[chris_uk]

I also have a bag of the clutch fittings with the little oring sat in a shelf if you want one.

[Doctor Ed]

hmm, ok, my chassis only had the flex hose hanging out into the engine bay with an M10 female flare fitting on the end. obviously didnt have anything to compare it to.

 

all sorted now, so no dramas, simply M10 flare fittings all the way through now

[vocky]

at least you will never lose the stupid seal from the vx220 alloy clutch fitting

[chris_uk]

at least you will never lose the stupid seal from the vx220 alloy clutch fitting

If you ever need one let me know.

[Arno]

and get everything hooked up and working (including clutch hydraulics etc).

 

Make sure to block/lock the slave cylinder from extending if you intend to pressure bleed the clutch circuit without the engine fitted. If not done then it can blow the slave cylinder out or at least over-extend it.. Tends to lead to leaks afterwards and then you need to pull the engine again just to swap in a new slave which is fairly annoying

Bye, Arno.