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Project Fracas - 6Sp A20Nft


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#741 Doctor Ed

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Posted 12 October 2017 - 08:53 AM

yep, i wont use a proper pressure bleeder, probably just gravity feed most of the line, spend a while burping the slave manually, then get it all together and bleed it manually.



#742 Doctor Ed

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Posted 12 October 2017 - 08:53 AM

The updated to do list
 
Small fiddly stuff:
- finish routing the front wiring harness
- mount new radiator, and front cooler circuit hoses.
- Need a new Spal fan, the old one sounds like a helicopter
- make undertray air deflector panel with small vortex generators 
- maybe source some 997 gt3 brake cooling deflectors - so close! dont quite sit right, need better mounting solution
- run wire from a dash pot to the exhaust for 'loud valve' control
- tidy up center console area, tuck the wiring away, finish it off.
- route rear heater circuit hoses
 
 
Medium sized fuckaround stuff:
- mount the gearbox and get it definitively hooked up
- mount the brake fluid reservoir and hoses to the master cyl- need to sort some fcuking Fittings (fcuk you!)
- modify/make new exhaust/muffler hanging Mounts (so close!)
- sort out the heat exchanger piping and fittings
- sort out heat exchanger thermostat and fans
- fix small crack I just caused in the rear wheel arch, bugger
- make rearview mirror indicator lights?
- sort out main coolant hoses in the engine bay (needs T-fittings for expansion tank circuit etc)
 
Large stuff that i need to do properly:
- bond the rear Firewall back to the rollhoop 
- design and make a new rear Firewall section to enclose the W2A intercooler core
- design and make the W2A core mounting brackets
- reweld the W2A core water fittings to suit 25mm ID hose
- reweld the inlet fittings for the heat-exchanger 
- design and make new rear roll-hoop support stays / rear clam support
- design and make new harness bar
- design and make rear toe link support bar
 
Random bits down the immediate priority list 
- flywheel Version 2 is in the works due to stuff-up with Version 1
- intake pipework
- exhaust pipework (working on it!)
- put engine in!
 
Things to buy
- new portable soldering iron
 
The updated done stuff
 
Small fiddly stuff to do first:
- retrace the ABS (FL) and DRB (RR) cutout wires, and mark the switches (memory is failing)
- rerun thermostat sensor wire down the sill to the back of the car
- rewire new relay and rerun run fan control wires down the sill to the back of the car
- rewire a new rad fan override switch/relay/loom
- replace one dodgy dash switch
- refit the heater control panel and heater piping/valve assembly. set the cable in final position
- wire up and finish installing the 6sp reverse lockout mechanism
- pull the shifter and handbrake cables through the chassis in preperation for the engine/gearbox install
- replace the airbag and pretensioner control module (bought a new one as itll suck to find the one ive got doesnt work once other sh*t is finished)
- mount new driver seat mounts and enjoy the newfound legroom
- set rivnuts in the floor for the shifter assembly and reinforce the fcuking flex thing
- fit pk5-880 alternator belt
 
Medium sized fcuk around stuff:
- Swap the ABS control module for the 4chan Deawoo one I got (S108196010 C)
- Bend up new brake cross-over hardlines and fit to the ABS pump
- Finish the fueltank/pump wiring and speedflow hose assembly, and remount the tank
- Finish the speedflow lines to the 044 and surgetank
 
Large stuff I need to do properly:
- Fit and bond new crashbox
- Fit and bond new windscreen surround
- Jig up and reweld the hardtop mounts to the rollbar
 
Random bits down the immediate priority list :
- need to get me some reinforced motor mount bushes
- i busted the reverse switch on the box off. oops
- need to mount a new clutch slave cyl to avoid that sinking feeling of a leaking clutch once all assembled
- Need to make up slave cyl hoses including a bleeder port for the single hosed concentric slave
- figure out the layout of this goddamn coolant circuit
 
Bought
- clutch lines/splitter/bleeder
- more loom tape
- stainless bar stock
 
 
 

Edited by Doctor Ed, 12 October 2017 - 08:53 AM.


#743 Doctor Ed

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Posted 12 October 2017 - 11:39 AM

I really should be having a study day... ughhh... but...
 
chopped the W2A core to prep it for 25mm fittings. orginally has 18mm fittings with a 14mm hole. yeah, nah. but how to open up the holes? intercooler core is right there. ha! sacrificial step drill to the rescue. id actually already fcuked this drill around the 8-12mm range, so it was perfect. basically just used the angle grinder to progressively chop the steps off, meaning there wasnt any 'plunge' depth to the bit. ream to required size, chop off that shoulder, ream up the next size. went from 14-22mm pretty damn quick actually.
 
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#744 vocky

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Posted 12 October 2017 - 07:40 PM

yep, i wont use a proper pressure bleeder, probably just gravity feed most of the line, spend a while burping the slave manually, then get it all together and bleed it manually.

 

reverse bleed it thumbsup

 

ps: push the slave cylinder inwards as you release the bleed nipple, tighten the nipple when it is fully depressed, repeat until no air comes out



#745 Doctor Ed

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Posted 12 October 2017 - 08:05 PM

Smart!

#746 Doctor Ed

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Posted 15 October 2017 - 08:55 AM

had enough with head in a book, so left the missus with the latest episode of Outlander, and went to the shed at like 10pm... great idea. got home at 4am, but managed to strike a bunch of stuff off the list
 
first up, the heartache that is the brake reservoir and fittings finally had an ending. found a guy wrecking a LHD on gumtree, and although cost more than it shoudve (LHD tax) finally got the required bits to put things together. i modified the way some things run in order to neaten it all up a little. also repurposed some unused coolant hose for the clutch reservoir line. its EPDM so should be brake fluid resistant. hope so!
 
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then moved back along the chassis, and got the fuel tank shear panel and the rear control arm mounts /gearbox torque mounts in properly. done
 
IMG_2839.JPG

pulled the slave cyl off in mild paranoia that id buggered the backing plate/seal, confirmed everything is where its supposed to be and slides freely, then in a delirious haze of '2:30am i should probably go home now' with the back of the car jacked up to get to the shear panel, i looked at the gearbox and was like... well why not. so dragged the gearbox in under the chassis on the jack. offloaded it, dropped the chassis, and then manually heaved the box into position. slipped the jack back in for fine positioning, slipped the bolts in. voila! gearbox is kindve in. went home in a delirious haze of satisfaction :)
 
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Edited by Doctor Ed, 15 October 2017 - 09:00 AM.


#747 vocky

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Posted 15 October 2017 - 10:26 AM

when you fit the engine remove the crank pulley and oil pump, it will then go in very easily thumbsup



#748 Doctor Ed

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Posted 15 October 2017 - 10:46 AM

will it going in (albiet with swearing) without disassembly? eyeball-o-meter says it should, just getting the clutch lined up could prove to be painful

#749 vocky

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Posted 15 October 2017 - 12:54 PM

you would need to remove one bolt from the water pump access panel - it will be obvious which one

 

it's a pain to get the clutch past the bellhousing, a crowbar helps, but it can be done



#750 Doctor Ed

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Posted Yesterday, 12:28 PM

So TTV came through with flywheel version 2. need to go double check the dimensions, but it's looking good :)

Revised friction surface, revised spigot bush, revised weight...

Comes in at 5.4kg (2kg reduction over v1)

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#751 Doctor Ed

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Posted Yesterday, 01:23 PM

So compare v1 against v2

2kg lighter, 5mm smaller friction surface ID (168mm vs 163mm), maybe 0.2mm thicker from crank mounting face to friction surface. 13mm mounting flange thickness (for M10x1.25 fasteners) and obviously the bronze spigot bush rather than the bearing. Everything else the same, so everything should like up nice :)

Obvious difference is the 2kg of extra scollaping out of the back of the thing. V2 actually feels 'right' in the hand. V1 feels like a fcuking nugget!

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Edited by Doctor Ed, Yesterday, 01:25 PM.





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