1266 replies to this topic

[Doctor Ed]

so going back to this:

getting a crown gear in the right ratio is appearing more and more like unicorn sh*t..

so, photoshop overlay says it could be close...

eyeball-o-meter says:
- green probably lines up 1:1
- blue can be easily milled in a safe area
- red, yeah... probably be ok to drill a new hole here. not ideal, but would work
- between red and green... hmmm

(though if you work on the principle of clamping force providing the sheer to facilitate torque transfer, rather than it being taken through the fasteners, milling between red and green, whilst not idea, would still fasten down ok. just need some decent flanged bolts)

at least the rooted box gave me a chance to prove that the photoshop was right:

[Doctor Ed]

Expensive clutch alignment tool...

[Nev]

Bloody useful to have a clutch alignment tool though, I know how much time I've wasted in the past without one.

[siztenboots]

/sorry , what gearbox is that f23 or something else?

 

now I see its a 6 speed m32 mz4 variant

 

[Rosssco]

Have you looked at any hybrid turbo options (e.g. K06 compressor side) at this stage, or are you sticking with the standard unit for initial testing at least?

[Doctor Ed]

just want to get it in and running for now. i was hoping to have it to dominik some time in jan, prob going to be more like feb at tis rate

 

the temp has dropped, and willingness to go slave away in the shed has dropped off exponentially!

 

also, realistically, although a hybrid turbo would be an easy bolt-on, for the A20 to make a reliable amount over 340-360hp you really need to open the motor. the standard turbo doesnt seem to have any real issues up to that level, so thats kindve break-point... run it stock up to 340odd, or do it all properly and make middle 400's

 

i think 340bhp and some seat-time would enough for now!

[Rosssco]

I thought the motor should be good for a solid ~400 before opening up the NFT (calibration dependant), but I agree..! Plus its not just the 340bhp, its the 400lb/ft torque which will be interesting to deploy progressively..

 

I keep a keen interest in your build because I've got a well used, but mostly complete A20NHT engine sitting here, plus some additional bits to make it happen. Not sure I want to tuff out the existing 2.4 SC engine just yet, plus I'd really like some form of adjustable traction control to deal with all that torque.. There's options for a standalone ECU's at a 'reasonable' price, but no one I can find has any direct experience (and therefore base calibration) with the GM DI engine. Meaning ££££ to get working..

[Doctor Ed]

im skeptical over 360 to be honest. it might work, but everything is going to be at breaking point, so why tempt the inevitable Dominik (Badcop) has cracked the GM ECU and can do pretty much anything with it (and for not much money i have to say !). drop him a line and see if he can sort a solution for whatever youve got in mind.

[Mopeytitan]

im skeptical over 360 to be honest. it might work, but everything is going to be at breaking point, so why tempt the inevitable Dominik (Badcop) has cracked the GM ECU and can do pretty much anything with it (and for not much money i have to say !). drop him a line and see if he can sort a solution for whatever youve got in mind.

Do you think he can do the insignia VXR exige? A28NET...

[Doctor Ed]

ill pester him to stick his head in here and comment. mechanics im good with, electronics/tuning/wiring... i run a mile.

Edited by Doctor Ed, 19 December 2017 - 07:42 PM.

[Mopeytitan]

Yup same with me I bought an AEM infinity ecu for the engine but if he can hack the standard ecu it’ll make my life a lot easier

[Doctor Ed]

ARPs lubed, loctited, and torqued

[BadCop]

The engine will handle 400 bhp - but the turbo is too small for that sort of power.

It works for doing one dyno run and reach that power - but only just.

The turbo is very inefficient at that pressure level  and makes very high IAT...

 

 

I turned it back to 360 bhp for track use. More power requires a bigger turbo. Best you can use is EFR.

But to make full use of the bigger turbo you need forged rods and pistons. 

 

So my advice is: If 350 to 360 bhp is enough - leave it stock incl. the standard K04.

 

Otherwise use forged Rods and Pistons and the EFR 6758 for 450 bhp or the EFR 7163 for over 500 bhp.

 

 

 

Regarding the 6-Cylinder:

The OEM A28NET ECU is a Bosch E77...

If you see one of those - take good aim and throw it in the bin

 

I'm pretty sure I can make them run standalone but I hate those E69 derivates. Hard to tune, easy to brick.

Few tables, low resolution. Most of the tables are 8bit - 1990s style

 

AEM Infinity is a thousand times better. The only effort is to marry the universal loom to the A28NET connectors.

 

[Rosssco]

Dominik (Badcop) has cracked the GM ECU and can do pretty much anything with it (and for not much money i have to say !). drop him a line and see if he can sort a solution for whatever youve got in mind.

 

Yeah, I've contacted Dominik before, and he's been really helpful in getting this far.. I'm sure he has access to the majority of the functionality, but the TC bit is a whole other world of f*ckaboutery. and would need something external I'll assume (like the discontinued Racelogic stuff)

[BadCop]

Yep a real TC needs independent wheelspeeds, Steering Wheel Angle and lateral accel as inputs.

Quite complicated to acquire the wheelspeed channels analog or even via CAN from VX/Lotus ABS. Or perhaps it's simple and I just can't find the easy solution

I already got the other two parameters from Astra J VXR hardware via CAN.

 

As a workaround you could wire in an additional Astra J ABS ECU (Just the ECU without hydraulics block etc.).

No Idea what happens when two different ABS ECUs use the wheelspeed sensors in parallel

I already have the ABS ECU of the Astra J VXR sitting around here but I've had no time to play around with it.

 

But if thats all wired up you could really just floor it and get the max acceleration possible out of a corner with a smooth torque management.

 

 

External devices will just cut ignition or fuel based on Front/back Wheelspeed comparison - which is... not ideal.

 

Or lets say:

1) If you only plan to go drag racing in a straight line

2) If you only want to prevent the car from spinning in the rain while massivly limiting performance

3) If you don't care about leaning the engine out (fuel cut) or flooding the turbo with unburnt fuel (ign cut)

4) If you like MIL lamps or Limp Mode

 

=> buy the bang bang brrrt device

[siztenboots]

just pinch the brake calipers and abs+ecu from porsche turbo for 6 cylinder , that will give you TC and torque vectoring

[BadCop]

If you include the Porsche flatsix engine, sensors, VTG Turbos and gearbox:) But even then those modern ECUs always want their BCMs and immobilizers to say hello... Better to buy the whole Porsche and swap chassis If you want a proper TC included in the ECU I'd run something like a haltech Elite

[Rosssco]

Perhaps getting a bit out there now..  And clogging Ed's thread..   For info, I spoke with these guys about their Delta GDi4 ECU, which is well priced, but they have not done anything on the GM DI engines, only the Duratecs. And I'm not sure if it has integrated traction / launch control functions.. https://www.scs-delt...delta-ecu-range

[Doctor Ed]

go right ahead, ive got nothing interesting going on atm anyway!

[Doctor Ed]

Fabricator guys got me my stuff before christmas, yay if anyone needs a good, reliable, affordable laser/water cutter who also does CNC folding on a single unit/low quantity basis... https://www.essexlaser.co.uk/

So sometime over the next few days I can get my firewall finally installed, plus I can get the flanges off to a machinist to have some receiver grooves machined into them. Flanges are 12mm (stainless/Alu) water cut. Firewall is 2mm alu laser cut