51 replies to this topic

[quimbles]

pull the connector or cut wire to the front pax wheel and fit switch/connectors.  theses a how to on the forum somewhere.

[Nev]

The ABS usually works well if you get the rolling circumference of the wheels the same. I've made a point of this on my car and it works fine (though it did not when I had 16" fronts and 17" rears with something like 7% rolling circumference difference)

[techieboy]

Either stick a switch inline on one of the ABS sensor circuits (not the NSR though as that provides the speed signal for the ECU and dash) or disconnect one of the ABS sensor plugs behind one of the wheels.

 

Don't bother with any brake pads from EBC. They're all varying degress of sh!t. Don't bother with Mintex pads either, they're really not up to the job on track. As mentioned Performance Friction, Pagid or Carbon Lorraine.

[Nev]

Have look here: http://www.vx220.org...-safety-checks/

 

 

Have a look at this thread I created, its got the guide on what to do initially to help keep you alive.

Edited by Nev, 13 May 2016 - 09:57 AM.

[Chriscvx]

Will do! I have used EBC in the past, but ultimately to throw at people. DS2500 I will go with, or if RS29'S are not crazy money! The ABS issue is handy to know now! Though I would be using team dynamics 1.2 or similar and 888's probably. With decent suspension, and the rear wheels not falling off lol, should be able to carry some decent speed. If the brakes dont work, then not much choice! Ha

[quimbles]

Don't bother with any brake pads from EBC. They're all varying degress of sh!t. Don't bother with Mintex pads either, they're really not up to the job on track. As mentioned Performance Friction, Pagid or Carbon Lorraine.

 

handy that i was going to buy mintex pads next doh!

[smiley]

Just watched those above! So i take it they just either snap or fall apart? That is not good!

 

They usually snap at the bolt near the wheel part.

Some people do not consider the toe links and hub carrier bolts a consumable. But they are.

 

So if you buy a vx that has been previously tracked, 95% chance all this stuff is done.

If you manage to buy a garage queen, good chance it has not been done.

[techieboy]

 

Don't bother with any brake pads from EBC. They're all varying degress of sh!t. Don't bother with Mintex pads either, they're really not up to the job on track. As mentioned Performance Friction, Pagid or Carbon Lorraine.

 

handy that i was going to buy mintex pads next doh!

 

 

Mintex pads are fine on the road and more than up to the job.

 

Just much better options when it comes to giving them a proper beating on track unless you're just planning on doing lots of sighting laps.

[sford]

My upgrade path so far has been:

 

Pads/Fluid/Discs

Started off on green stuff;aweful.

Went to Mintex 1144, good for road and ok while I was learning.

Went to Mintex 1155, better than the 44s. Lasted longer, less dust but ultimately after 3-4 laps they needed progressively more force to be effective.

Moved to Pagid RS14s and so far they feel very good. Better pedal feel in that they work instantly. Still dusty if that bothers you. Don't think the brakes need any more power.

 

Always used normal cheap discs and just replace each time I change pads. Bleed fluid once a year or if it's been an especially harsh td.

 

Suspension

This went through a full overhaul 2014/15 winter. I went from pretty standard aged everything to new suspension, front arb, bushes, bearings etc. I have a breakdown of the costs if you're interested in a ball park figure. Feels good to me so far and made a noticeable difference (according to others who I track with).

 

As everyone has said, hub carrier bolts and toe links are a must for changing. I treat them as a service item.

 

Tyres

Started using the standard bridgestones and they were fine. Changed to the RSR's (probably too soon) and I think as a result it masked my lack of familiarity with the characteristics of the car (read that as lack of ability). I did a walshy day last year and that helped a lot.

 

I'm far from a fast or competitive driver and do this for fun with my mates. I have a friend who can drive his 120bhp elise faster. All the mods in the world don't make up for the size of ones testicles.   

 

 

 

Edited by sford, 13 May 2016 - 10:26 AM.

[Acidpopstar]

You want the RS14s for track over RS29s. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Chriscvx]

You want the RS14s for track over RS29s. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I mainly went for the RS29'S as they were excellent on the road as well, but yes RS14's will probably be a better bet just for track. What coilovers do people tend to go for?

[techieboy]

Quantums or Nitrons for those who value performance and longevity over cost. GAZ for those who value cost over anything else.   Oh, another thing to add to the list. Make sure your geo is setup to make the most of the car on track, can make a huge difference to the balance on even a box standard car. Obviously, if you're replacing wheels/tyres, toe links, dampers then do it after these changes.

[james_ly]

I'm still at the beginning of the mods phase on mine (it's a daily driver as well). It was a fun track car as standard anyway. The mods I've made so far:

geo - 340R road settings (basically more camber) Needed to kill the understeer

Wheels - Exige sized team dynamics wheels lets you run wider front tyres, need this to improve braking and reduce the understeer.

ABS disabled - ESSENTIAL!

Brakes - Mintex 1144s - just about acceptable on road tyres.

 

Future mods I may do:

Suspension - stiffer springs to contain the roll

Brakes - Pagid RS42s

Tyres - R888s or similar.

 

[Chriscvx]

Are they are decent places that cater for the VX? So rose jointed toe arms (not seen the configuration) or arms that will last! As i take it, quite a lot was ported from the Elise, so should be well catered for.

[techieboy]

https://www.eliseparts.com/ http://elise-shop.com/ http://www.seriouslylotus.com/

[Chriscvx]

https://www.eliseparts.com/ http://elise-shop.com/ http://www.seriouslylotus.com/

Not sure where the smilies are! But a thumsup would be used lol

Edited by Chriscvx, 13 May 2016 - 11:05 AM.

[smiley]

 

Not sure where the smilies are!

 

 

Right here buddy

 

 

Eliseparts.com uses a filtering for our car parts only, if you use www.vx220parts.com  

Edited by smiley, 13 May 2016 - 11:20 AM.

[Spitfire Engineering]

Are they are decent places that cater for the VX? So rose jointed toe arms (not seen the configuration) or arms that will last! As i take it, quite a lot was ported from the Elise, so should be well catered for.

 

Rose jointed and ones that last, pretty easy choice  

 

[hairy]

Toe-link replacement for older cars are a must - particularly if you fit semi-slicks.

 

I saw an elise fail on my second track day with near disastrous collateral damage.

 

I got off fairly lightly on a Walshy day - after a morning of 60-70mph left hand turns, my rear toe link finally gave up on a ~25mph turn. It did result in a 6 hour journey home on a flat bed though - full marks to Andrew as he took me to the pub in his Maserati!

[LeeS]

Are there any other cars out there with the deadly toe link design? :-/

Edited by LeeS, 13 May 2016 - 10:00 PM.