or £10 worth of usb borescope first
does the engine breather push out a lot of vapour?
that lost compression has to go somewhere , do you think its pushing oil past the cam cover gasket?
Posted 16 April 2018 - 08:42 AM
or £10 worth of usb borescope first
does the engine breather push out a lot of vapour?
that lost compression has to go somewhere , do you think its pushing oil past the cam cover gasket?
Posted 16 April 2018 - 10:13 AM
Posted 16 April 2018 - 10:27 AM
I used one to pick up Rich's holed piston at Snett the other week.
Granted the hole was large as the quality was low.
I have a dedicated one with a screen which is better. Especially when you see how far down your throat you can get it.
Posted 16 April 2018 - 10:56 AM
Posted 16 April 2018 - 11:00 AM
Regardless of if/what he sees with a borescope, the remedy will almost certainly require stripping the engine and a rebuild/replacement to some degree anyway, so buying and using a borescope seems a bit redundant, particularly as it can't identify cracked rings or melted ringlands.
The OP seems pretty certain about the 70 PSI reading (which he has repeated 3 times), so the engine is clearly fooked. Driving it around like that might make things worse (like scoring the bores or breaking off more bits of metal inside), so IMO it would be best to strip + investigate immediately.
Good luck.
Edited by Nev, 16 April 2018 - 11:10 AM.
Posted 16 April 2018 - 11:32 AM
Posted 16 April 2018 - 11:33 AM
Posted 16 April 2018 - 02:29 PM
MMG this yearI'm sorry to say that's a vast difference, either that cylinder's rings are broken/worn/bent or has an uneven/washed bore.1 - 150psi 2 - 150psi 3 - 70psi 4 - 150psi
I doubt its valve seat leak as that wouldn't make such a marked difference unless the valve stem has bent due to spring failure. Who mapped it?
Posted 16 April 2018 - 02:31 PM
Can was live mapped and aimed for a more linear torque curve over the previous Courtenay mapI've never heard of a Z20LET burning it's valve seats TBH, but I suppose it's possible. I have however seen umpteen melted pistons and quite a few cracked rings though. If you go on the Z20LET lovers Farcebook forum there must be a new picture of a melted piston every week or so (here is one from 2 days ago: https://www.facebook...3&theater&ifg=1 ).
I would imagine that the melting point of the pistons (which are only some sort of cast duraluminium) will be a good deal lower than the steel valve seats. Anywho, the resolution is engine out, take the head off and have a look, lots of work/expense I'm afraid.
If you fix/replace your engine, you should also review your map, IATs and existing sensors (so it doesn't happen to the new engine). Usually the cause is "over-optimistic" mapping, hence why I asked who mapped your car. GL (and let us know what it was if you find out please).
Posted 16 April 2018 - 02:33 PM
Edited by Vx220-blue, 16 April 2018 - 02:34 PM.
Posted 16 April 2018 - 03:11 PM
I'd go for building a tall motor (to coin a yank phrase) and swap it over, then strip and sell any salvageable bits from your current lump.
Posted 16 April 2018 - 06:07 PM
I'd go for building a tall motor (to coin a yank phrase) and swap it over, then strip and sell any salvageable bits from your current lump.
I have no idea what a tall motor is.
Google doesn't know either :')
Posted 16 April 2018 - 07:29 PM
as in "full" except for all the shite you bolt onto it (which cones from the existing one)
All its a tall block
Posted 16 April 2018 - 10:50 PM
Is there a guide around for removing / installing the engine myself? - all the information I see is for NAs
Thanks
Posted 17 April 2018 - 04:22 PM
Is there a guide around for removing / installing the engine myself? - all the information I see is for NAs
Ha ha, that tells a story!
There isn't a guide as such that I'm aware of, it's easy really, just label up the plugs (so you can put it back together) and start pulling it apart. Then at the end put the engine + box on a crane and undo the 4 engine mounts.
I have some info here, but it's not a "step by step" guide by any means: https://sites.google...odywork-removal
Edited by Nev, 17 April 2018 - 04:27 PM.
Posted 17 April 2018 - 04:32 PM
My current plan is to find a recently rebuilt block / one that's in a donor car. The alternative is to buy a block that needs a rebuild and fit some forged pistons and rods.
Be very wary of what you buy, the majority of second hand engines (even if claiming to be rebuilt) are dogs and being sold on for that very reason. Make sure you see a video of that exact engine running, and if the owner doesn't have a video then ask yourself why not...
Edited by Nev, 17 April 2018 - 04:40 PM.
Posted 17 April 2018 - 05:13 PM
Yeah plenty of "rebuilt with no proof" despite apparently having rebuilt less than 5k ago.Be very wary of what you buy, the majority of second hand engines (even if claiming to be rebuilt) are dogs and being sold on for that very reason. Make sure you see a video of that exact engine running, and if the owner doesn't have a video then ask yourself why not...My current plan is to find a recently rebuilt block / one that's in a donor car. The alternative is to buy a block that needs a rebuild and fit some forged pistons and rods.
Posted 17 April 2018 - 08:12 PM
http://www.vx220.org...-speed-gearbox/
You can always sell the 6-speed box...
Edited by Exmantaa, 17 April 2018 - 08:13 PM.
Posted 17 April 2018 - 08:55 PM
£4500 for a new engine and box is quite good really, can't be many of them floating around. At least you'd be buying maximum provenance that it will work!
Edited by Nev, 17 April 2018 - 08:57 PM.
Posted 18 April 2018 - 06:31 AM
MMG this year
I'm sorry to say that's a vast difference, either that cylinder's rings are broken/worn/bent or has an uneven/washed bore.1 - 150psi 2 - 150psi 3 - 70psi 4 - 150psi
I doubt its valve seat leak as that wouldn't make such a marked difference unless the valve stem has bent due to spring failure. Who mapped it?
They Strike again killed a few engines now
I guess this is the old CS stage 4 ?
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