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Opel Speedster Sk3Xx

supercharged harrop waes water injection tc traction control chris tullet obd tuner pro saab b207 c20let

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#1 FabianG

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Posted 17 January 2019 - 11:09 PM

Hi, 

my name is Fabian, I am 28 years old and I come from Germany. 

My car is well known in the german community and I have been there for a long time.

Now I would like to show my project to you guys.

 

But first I want to tell you my story how I came to this graeat car. 

 

My Dad bought his Speedster as a new car in 2001. 

I was 10 years old when we collected the car and I was in love from the very first time I saw it. 

My Dad always told me that when I am grown up and have enough driving skills that his Speedy will be mine one day. 

I can tell you that he still has his Speedy. But the good thing is, that I have got my own one. :)

 

 

I bought mine in 2011 from a guy who did meaningful and track oriented modfications to it. 

It was SC with 250HP, Öhlins Suspension, AP Racing 4-pod calipers, 315mm AP lightweight discs and Kumho V70 in Soft / Medium on DTC Rims.

A fast dream car :)

 

But as you could imagine it was not fast enough after a short time. 

So I went on and put a B207 engine in and mounted the Harrop 1320. 

That made about 330HP with 80mm pulley and oem cylinder head. 

Could not make more without a proper cooling system. 

So I built a double radiator at the front, dualpass in the back and the big Bosch water pump. 

It was helpful but to get the results that I needed I had to install the Aquamist system.

 

Everything was running fine until my engine blew up. 

The connection bolt between piston and rod failed (JE Pistons).

So now I want to have a strong engine with good material. 

 

Here are the specs from my new engine: 

 

-B207 Block

-cylinder wall support

-Z22SE Crank machined to -6mm diameter

-Crankshaft plasma nitrocarburized and fine balanced

-C20LET Mahle Pistons

-Special 143mm steel Rods

-weights of pistons and rods adjusted to under 0,2g in difference to each other

-compression ratio 9,0:1

-Cylinder head ported with ZZP Stage 2 camshafts

-intake manifold machined and added fitting pins

-clutch will be updated to 8 pad sintered metal

 

Tobias Kroll from KT-Fahrzeugtechnik did all the machining. I am very happy. It looks so great :) 

 

Other mods: 

 

-Quaife LSD

-Aquamist WAES

-Racelogic Race TC 

-short steering

-Öhlins suspension

-315mm AP brake

-carbon hardtop

-carbon coupe back

-carbon interiour

 

A few pictures: 

 

whatsapp_image_2018_93kc7.jpeg

 

 

whatsapp_image_2018_zsjx5.jpeg

 

whatsapp_image_2018_doko3.jpeg

 

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whatsapp_image_2018_sskhu.jpeg

 

whatsapp_image_2018_hgjb3.jpeg

 

whatsapp_image_2018_spk74.jpeg

 

whatsapp_image_2018_vhkpc.jpeg

 

 


Edited by FabianG, 17 January 2019 - 11:13 PM.


#2 FabianG

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Posted 17 January 2019 - 11:27 PM

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#3 FabianG

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Posted 17 January 2019 - 11:27 PM

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20170404_201145vtj00.jpg

 

 


Edited by FabianG, 17 January 2019 - 11:28 PM.


#4 FabianG

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Posted 17 January 2019 - 11:41 PM

And a few of my favourite videos: 

 

On the dyno

 

Slalom

 

Slalom onboard

 

Exhaust sound

 

TC wet settings

 

Drift

 

Aquamist test

 

Acceleration

 

 

 

And a few videos with my fathers car: 

 

Dyno

 

Drift

 

Slalom

 

Flamethrower

 

Turbo Chasing SC

 

SC Chasing Turbo 

 

 

I hope you enjoy it :) 

 

 

 

 

 

 



#5 alexb

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Posted 18 January 2019 - 07:31 AM

Hi Fabian, pretty nice looking car. I was wondering about the double radiator you mention. I assume that you use these for chargecooling and that you use two small radiators behind the inserts in the front clam. What radiators do you use? And any experience with this set up? I ask because I'm planning of doing exactly the same thing, which also means freeing up the main radiator. Did you do any mods on the main rad? Like removing one fan, assuming you had two. Or changing it for a unit with a thicker core?

 

My set up is a little different in that I'm running a Rotrex instead of a Harrop. And a separate PWR cooler. My B207 was re-sleeved with, I hope, stronger sleeves. My engine builder was against using supports due to the effect that would have on coolant flow. Any thoughts on that?



#6 swast4

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Posted 18 January 2019 - 07:39 AM

Wow an amazing car and lots of time and money spent, when I have more time I'll have a look through your videos. 😁

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#7 1cobrav8

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Posted 18 January 2019 - 07:51 AM

Car looks ace, when’s the new engine going to be in and running?

#8 The Batman

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Posted 18 January 2019 - 08:08 AM

good to see a new build thread!

 

keep up with the posts, interested to see the results.

 



#9 FLD

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Posted 18 January 2019 - 09:26 AM

Fantastic work! Would you be able to share the step file for the deck plate? It’s on my to do list (which is looooong) and the file would be a great help. thumbsup

#10 ChrisS1

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Posted 18 January 2019 - 09:41 AM

Lovely car.
All the work and time put in are well worth it.
You must be very pleased with the end result thumbsup

#11 alanwetherall

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Posted 18 January 2019 - 10:35 AM

You are a very serious petrol head, well done, i shudder to think how much this all cost



#12 Acidpopstar

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Posted 18 January 2019 - 12:33 PM

Stunning car. Absolutely love the coupe back. Is that the German one? It looks like it with the curved louvres to match the contour of the roll over cover


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#13 smiley

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Posted 18 January 2019 - 01:33 PM

I believe that is indeed one of the german ones, of the original batch.

 

Real CF used.

Saga goes that 10 were made. 2 for Germany, 1 for Italy, 1 for Austria and 6 for the UK.

Those 6 for the UK magically disapeared. Rumor is that Thorney ate them. :happy:

 


Edited by smiley, 18 January 2019 - 01:34 PM.


#14 FabianG

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Posted 18 January 2019 - 02:02 PM

Hi Fabian, pretty nice looking car. I was wondering about the double radiator you mention. I assume that you use these for chargecooling and that you use two small radiators behind the inserts in the front clam. What radiators do you use? And any experience with this set up? I ask because I'm planning of doing exactly the same thing, which also means freeing up the main radiator. Did you do any mods on the main rad? Like removing one fan, assuming you had two. Or changing it for a unit with a thicker core?

 

My set up is a little different in that I'm running a Rotrex instead of a Harrop. And a separate PWR cooler. My B207 was re-sleeved with, I hope, stronger sleeves. My engine builder was against using supports due to the effect that would have on coolant flow. Any thoughts on that?

 

Exactly, I use them for charge cooling. It helped to get the temps about 10°C more down. The limiting factor are the laminovas. I believe that the double radiators in the front will be much more effective on your setup than on mine.

The two small radiators are from setrab.

 

On the main radiator I have one fan and I run the thick pro alloy radiator combined with the 86°C thermostat. 

I have no problems with heat, even on the racetrack or on slalom sessions with hot weather.

 

The open deck supports have drills and holes exactly where the cylinder head gasket has them. 

So no reduction in coolant flow. 

 

 

 

Wow an amazing car and lots of time and money spent, when I have more time I'll have a look through your videos. 😁

Sent from my LG-H815 using Tapatalk

 

Thanks mate ! 

 

Car looks ace, when’s the new engine going to be in and running?

 

I hope I find enough time to get the car running in April. I am studying mechanical engineering and I am on my last steps, so time will be rare :( 

 

 

good to see a new build thread!

 

keep up with the posts, interested to see the results.

 

I will keep you up to date :) 

 

Fantastic work! Would you be able to share the step file for the deck plate? It’s on my to do list (which is looooong) and the file would be a great help. thumbsup

 

The machining did a guy from germany. Tobias Kroll from "KT-Fahrzeugtechnik". I think he sells the deck plates, if you need one. Just contact him on facebook.

 

Lovely car.
All the work and time put in are well worth it.
You must be very pleased with the end result thumbsup

 

Yes I am, tahnk you ! 

 

You are a very serious petrol head, well done, i shudder to think how much this all cost

 

Haha, yes I am ! But aren't we all petrolheads ?  :wub:

 

Stunning car. Absolutely love the coupe back. Is that the German one? It looks like it with the curved louvres to match the contour of the roll over cover


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Yes it is the German one. Completely made of CFK!

 

 

I believe that is indeed one of the german ones, of the original batch.

 

Real CF used.

Saga goes that 10 were made. 2 for Germany, 1 for Italy, 1 for Austria and 6 for the UK.

Those 6 for the UK magically disapeared. Rumor is that Thorney ate them. :happy:

 

Mine was the very first one. On top of that a guy from the German community made 10 pieces as NA version and now they are doing 10 more as turbo version. 

The numbers aren't right. From the 10 NA versions, my Dad got one and I know 5 other guys from germany who also got one. So there are just 4 which are gone to other countrys. 



#15 FabianG

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Posted 18 January 2019 - 02:11 PM

A few more pics from the front radiators

 

img-20160922-wa0014.tetk7e.jpg

 

img-20160922-wa0015.j2fkpc.jpg

 

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#16 alexb

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Posted 18 January 2019 - 05:49 PM

Thanks a lot for the radiator pictures. Good to see that a narrow 25 row Setrab will fit with some minor mods :happy:  I can appreciate the amount of work you put into that car.



#17 Firthy

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Posted 18 January 2019 - 06:56 PM

Fantastic machine !!! Had seen your vids on you tube already but not the car.

What was the main driver behind going with the two separate rads was it engine temp or the potential of cooler intake temps or both!

Given your experience would you do it again or just go straight to WI?

I'm on stage 2 with dual pro alloy rad and suffer with hot temps on track in high temps, so I'm not sure whether to do your radiator mod to free up the rad or go WI and hope that this makes the engine run cooler as well!

#18 FabianG

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Posted 18 January 2019 - 08:12 PM

I did it primarily for cooler intake temps.

But I found out that you sadly don't get twice the cooling.

The problem are the laminovas in the intake manifold. I was able to gain about 10-20% more cooling. 

But thats not worth the effort in my opinion when you have the option for a WI.

 

So with my knowledge from now I would go straight to WI combined with the standart SC intercooler. 

 

The WI is much more effective then I have ever thought it would be. 

But it is a complex system which has to be controlled and set up correctly to work well. 

 

You must also think about a fail safe mode, which thank god, the OBD Tuner Pro provides. 

You should rise your iginition when you drive with WI. But if your WI fails, your engine will knock itself to death very quckly.

With OBD Tuner Pro the Aquamist unit will send the information to the ECU and the OBD Tuner Pro Software will switch to the safe mapping by itself if the WI fails. 

You can also controll the amount of water with an own mapping based on your fuel tables.



#19 Firthy

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Posted 18 January 2019 - 08:42 PM

Thanks that's very interesting on the standard z22 we run into engine temp issues as the pro alloy rad is stuck in front. So the 2 rads is a great solution to reduce the engine temps...

Probably a really stupid question but does wi reduce engine temps and intake temps therefore help both problems at once?

I guess if I add wi on a standard engine it will make more power and snap a rod though. Anyway sorry for ruining your thread please keep the vids coming. Love seeing you drift the Vx wish mine had a diff!

#20 FabianG

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Posted 18 January 2019 - 09:48 PM

I have heard from the problem with the engine temp when using the pro alloay radiator for intercooling.

The dual radiators would solve this problem. 

If you just want to stay on stage 2 SC then I think the WI is a little over powered. 

 

It cools down the IAT by evaporating the injected water. You can measure a big decrease in IAT.

But the biggest amount of cooling takes place inside the engine when the air gets compressed.

At these high temperatures the water takes a lot of energy out of the air with its phase transition. 

So the combustion can run much more effective and the EGT drops about 80-100°C.

The wohle engine runs much healthier. You could also drive a leaner mixture because you dont have to cool down the engine with your fuel. 

 

 

 







Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: supercharged, harrop, waes, water injection, tc, traction control, chris tullet, obd tuner pro, saab b207, c20let

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