
Magnesium Alloy Vxr Speedlines - Available Now
#21
Posted 13 June 2006 - 03:33 PM
#22
Posted 13 June 2006 - 03:42 PM



#23
Posted 13 June 2006 - 03:43 PM


#24
Posted 13 June 2006 - 03:44 PM
#25
Posted 13 June 2006 - 03:46 PM
oh unless u want to save a few ounzes per wheel
Thats the ONLY sane reason to buy magnesium wheels. They are harder to look after and they burn beautifully if you ever get them going. But they should be lighter (still waiting for weights BTW).
If you want the light wheel (for improved unsprung / sprung weight ratio) the only other thing to check is how strong they are. Will they handle being thumped over a kerb when doing a trackday / hitting a regulation council pothole?
If you can get a pre-sale statement about that you can buy with that degree of confidence. If not you make your own analysis and experiments and carry your own risk. All wheels can be deformed and I wouldn't fancy straightening mags.
BTW, this unsprung weight business. The assembly per corner is quite heavy upright / hub / disk / caliper / wheel / tyre + say 1/2 a wishbone and damper / spring set. Say 35kgs without going and weighing some. Change the uprights, disk, calipers, wheels and most of all the tyres for a nice low carcase weight slick and you can knock 15kgs off. Now that does make a LOT of difference.
Edited by cyberman, 13 June 2006 - 03:47 PM.
#26
Posted 13 June 2006 - 03:47 PM
#27
Posted 13 June 2006 - 03:52 PM
#28
Posted 13 June 2006 - 04:24 PM
and does super light mean super weak, i mean one curb could mean nearly 400 quid a quarter down the drain?
The only reasonable answer is "not necessarily" There are only two ways of determining. 1. Buy some and test them. 2. Have the vendor make a statement that you can rely on. Otherwise its head down and cheque book up. And many a good time has been had like that.
I have used several sets of magnesium wheels in the past including the legendary MelMag made in spun alloy. An 18*18J wheel could be picked up on a little finger. OK, it cost a month's salary but they were beautiful. And strong. But you didn't kerb them. They were stiff. But if you kerbed them the rims deformed. Fixing involved heat treatment in an inert atmsophere in order to anneal the metal - almost remanufacturing.
Plans are reputable and I'm sure they wouldn't be offering rubbish. Ask Graham what warranty he offers and what the "kerbing" recovery options are. I am sure he will have a suitable answer. Then no one needs to speculate.
#29
Posted 13 June 2006 - 06:31 PM
you'd have like the guy who stopped me at the petrol station last night then chris..
"nice car mate.. quite fancy one myself..how much they go for.. how fast ...
not sure on the black wheels though.."
walks off n gets into a blue mx5 with chrome all over it..
apparently he got it off a guy who raced it...and you bought it for the road !!!
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Pass me the gun

#30
Posted 15 June 2006 - 06:36 AM




#31
Posted 15 June 2006 - 08:00 PM
#32
Guest_Bletch (Guest)
Posted 16 June 2006 - 09:33 PM


#33
Posted 16 June 2006 - 10:18 PM
a) go on a diet

c) get rid of the crap you keep in the boot
or
d) buy some mag alloys
They are very strong (stronger than the standard VXR wheel).
Was that confirmed via appropriate tests?
Mani
Edited by Mani, 16 June 2006 - 10:19 PM.
#34
Posted 17 June 2006 - 06:28 AM
#35
Posted 17 June 2006 - 07:19 AM
#36
Posted 17 June 2006 - 08:24 AM
#37
Posted 19 June 2006 - 10:17 AM
#38
Posted 26 June 2006 - 08:44 PM
#39
Posted 26 June 2006 - 09:04 PM

#40
Posted 26 June 2006 - 10:22 PM
I think you're probably wasting your breath mate, it's clearly the colour the counts!er, try about 20 kg. That's the whole point of this thread. Jesus.

I thought the problem with mag wheels was that they were inherently soft, didn't take kindly to pot holes and went out of shape too easily on the road? Look the dog's though.

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