56 replies to this topic

[speedster]

What would the max RPM for the following configuration:

• Ported and gas flowed cylinder head
• Titanium valves or Ferrea special alloy valves
• Ferrea dual coil valve springs + Titanium Retainers
• Decent set of cams
• WiseCo pistons - Rated for forced induction
• Eagle connecting rods
• GM steel billet performance crankshaft with bearings to match

Basically I want to increase the RPM beyond the 7000 threshold. What do I need to hit 10000-12000?
At high RPM will the standard oil pressure be enough?

Edited by speedster, 11 November 2006 - 10:41 PM.

[almar]

if you need the speed buy a pagani zonda

[speedster]

if you need the speed buy a pagani zonda

Well I don't really need speed, I am just interested in modifying the car and increasing the RPM threshold is one mod I want to work on! Hope that makes sense

[coopa]

What about an inlet manifold more tuned to high end power? Decent plenum and shorter runners etc. Higher flow throttle body/bodies? Cooling system?

[speedster]

What about an inlet manifold more tuned to high end power? Decent plenum and shorter runners etc.

Higher flow throttle body/bodies?

Cooling system?

My first shot is to modify my dbilas intake by adding additional injectors onto it's runners. I picked up up a VXR fuel rail + Injectors (cheers griffo) and have injector pockets on the way. I have a 68mm TB attached and it works a treat! Will wait to see how it performs with head and block work.
Cooling should be good but I will probably add an oil cooler.
Long term I'd like to build something that's high revvvving... so want to get the spec right.

Edited by speedster, 11 November 2006 - 11:58 PM.

[vocky]

Dude's bottom end 'left the building' at about 8800rpm so reaching 10k rpm is not going to be easy the balancer shafts will need removing and the water pump swapping for electric, then all the oil ways blocking off which used to feed the bearings for the balancer shafts with the mods you're looking at, 9k rpm could be the max I've got a spare bottom end which I'm thinking of doing something similar with, but keeping the standard crank, maybe low compression pistons and then a sc, or then again I might just sell it and get a 2.4 vvt engine from the states

Edited by vocky, 12 November 2006 - 10:31 AM.

[dude]

Well my bottomend went at 8157rpm. You will never reach 10000rpm with 94,6mm in stroke. The pistonspeed will exceed laws of physics. If you go with a 86mm stroke it´s possible but not easy. Expect 500-800km between restoration.

[vocky]

Well my bottomend went at 8157rpm.

You will never reach 10000rpm with 94,6mm in stroke. The pistonspeed will exceed laws of physics.
If you go with a 86mm stroke it´s possible but not easy. Expect 500-800km between restoration.

thanks for the correction Dude

I knew you got over 8k and it went bang

so using the 2.0 turbo or sc bottom end could get a higher rpm

Edited by vocky, 12 November 2006 - 10:45 AM.

[VIX]

Any information here? -
http://www.gm.com/co..._build_book.pdf

PS Hope this is the right engine!

[mandarinvx]

Any information here? -
http://www.gm.com/co..._build_book.pdf

PS Hope this is the right engine!

That's an interesting read, 75bhp NOS eh? could be a fairly cheap and 'relatively' simple option

Apparently you have to make sure you use 92 octane fuel after performing any of the mods tho

[coopa]

Apparently you have to make sure you use 92 octane fuel after performing any of the mods tho

That's MON not RON

[mandarinvx]

That's MON not RON

Ah, thought it was a bit odd! So what does it mean? is 92 MON equiv to our 98 RON

[speedster]

8k ain't a bad start The kit I'm looking at is GM Performance parts, the weakest of which is rated for 650HP. Building from the bottom up - Junking the standard block and going for the Ecotec race cylinder block, billet steel crankshaft, billet connecting rods terminating with either the WiseCo pistons or GM Performance pistons then adding a machined cylinder head with max port sizing and as much titanium in the head as possible!! I agree vocky, dumping the water pump for electric, good option

[JG]

small bore - long stroke, torquey engines that do not lend themselves to high rpm large bore - short stroke, no torque but can be tuned for power at high rpm. Motorcicle engine. Vx 2.2 is a very long stoke - very small bore. it is never going to like high rpm.

[vocky]

I agree vocky, dumping the water pump for electric, good option

Dude came up with that idea

I'm rebuilding a bottom end at the minute, the balancer shafts have got to go - I can't believe the weight

not sure whether to keep the chain driven pump or swap to electric

Edited by vocky, 13 November 2006 - 11:29 AM.

[speedster]

I been looking at the GM Race Cylinder block. It's spec's (in inches) are:

• Fully-machined aluminum block
• 3.400" bores
• 8.700" deck height
• Steel liners machined for stainless steel O-rings and head gasket

Can you calculate the stroke via the deck height? How does that compare with a standard NA block? (The bore is the same).

not sure whether to keep the chain driven pump or swap to electric

What's the weight saving gain?

Edited by speedster, 13 November 2006 - 07:03 PM.

[vocky]

not sure whether to keep the chain driven pump or swap to electric

What's the weight saving gain?

would there be any ?

I was just thinking that the water pump chain could be removed, so less drag on the crank

I will probably keep the driven pump, mainly due to reliability concerns

from what the gm build book states, the standard block is good for 400bhp

the only items I'm going to upgrade are the conrods, by fitting eagle units and also fit head studs

Edited by vocky, 13 November 2006 - 08:13 PM.

[speedster]

not sure whether to keep the chain driven pump or swap to electric

What's the weight saving gain?

would there be any ?

I was just thinking that the water pump chain could be removed, so less drag on the crank

I will probably keep the driven pump, mainly due to reliability concerns

from what the gm build book states, the standard block is good for 400bhp

the only items I'm going to upgrade are the conrods, by fitting eagle units and also fit head studs

If you physically remove the pump and get a light weight electrical unit you could save a kg or two. Not sure what the weight of the pump+chain is so best get figures and do some maths

Yeah, the standard block is good for 400hp but I'd like to start a serious build with the race block. If I ever decide to add a FI kit I would plan on bringing the plant up into the 500's.

Dude, what gearbox is the FI Badster running with and what drive shafts are attached? If I want a gearbox that can handle up to 600hp am I looking at a custom job?

Vroom vroom!!

Edited by speedster, 13 November 2006 - 08:44 PM.

[vocky]

8.700" deck height
Can you calculate the stroke via the deck height? How does that compare with a standard NA block?

just measured standard block, about 222mm, so 8.7"

500 bhp have you been talking to cp or dude

Edited by vocky, 13 November 2006 - 09:11 PM.

[speedster]

8.700" deck height
Can you calculate the stroke via the deck height? How does that compare with a standard NA block?

just measured standard block, about 222mm, so 8.7"

500 bhp have you been talking to cp or dude

thats means we're can't get away from a long stroke motor. Wonder how GM got their import fighter up to and beyond 10,000 RPM?

I want to make sure I'm working on something that is powerful and reliable... what are CP and Dude up too