39 replies to this topic

[struts]

Someone did the job easily removing first the complete shift mechanism assembly.
Remove cables, 5x bolts and you have all the mechanism in your hands... then hammering the pin and removing the clip should be easier.

Take a look:How to remove shift mechanism

Thanks, will keep that in mind if nothing else works.

Surely removing the whole mechanism (just 5 bolts ) is a no brainer. Yiou can do the replacement then on the workebench. Knocking seven bells of sh*t to get the pin out on the main input shaft to the gerabox sounds daft.

[RCduck7]

Someone did the job easily removing first the complete shift mechanism assembly.
Remove cables, 5x bolts and you have all the mechanism in your hands... then hammering the pin and removing the clip should be easier.

Take a look:How to remove shift mechanism

Thanks, will keep that in mind if nothing else works.

Surely removing the whole mechanism (just 5 bolts ) is a no brainer. Yiou can do the replacement then on the workebench. Knocking seven bells of sh*t to get the pin out on the main input shaft to the gerabox sounds daft.

Sounds easy but should it really be as simple as removing the bolts, get it out, do your thing with the pin and bolt it back in??
What garantuee do i have if i fit the machanism back on everything should be in place as it should?
Isn't that axle on the mechanism attached to toothed wheels in some kind position or maybe other stuff i might have problems with?
Screwing something loose is one thing but getting it back together properly is an other.
Project is on hold now as i need the vx for 2 days driving at the "Ardennen" in Belgium.
Think i'm gonna try the freezing tip next.

[mandarinvx]

I don't think it's quite as easy as just removing the assembly - Here's what TIS has to say about it, but then that does seem over the top!

[RCduck7]

Someone did the job easily removing first the complete shift mechanism assembly.
Remove cables, 5x bolts and you have all the mechanism in your hands... then hammering the pin and removing the clip should be easier.

Take a look:How to remove shift mechanism

Thanks, will keep that in mind if nothing else works.

BTW, if its still of interest... a pipe freezing kit from Wickes or B&Q is a v useful addition to your toolbox for this type of thing. Its an evaporative spray which usually causes at least enough shrinkage to enable release agent to work its way in. Requires a little patience and the willpower to resist hitting stuff with a hammer Just be a little careful on the application though as it is v cold and obviously not all arrangements of parts will shrink in the right direction. Cost about £6.

cheers

So, would this be what i need??

http://www.wickes.co.../424921&bklist=

I considered liquid nitrogen but it seems it costs almost as much as the short shifter itself a bottle.

[andyr]

I considered liquid nitrogen but it seems it costs almost as much as the short shifter itself a bottle.

Liquid Nitrogen

[Ducati996Senna]

I found that an air chisel gun worked very well. I used a long metal drift against the pin with a socket on the top to keep the tool of the air chisel in place. Rather than use a chisel shaped tool I inserted a round punch. Bingo.

[petrolhead1]

I don't think it's quite as easy as just removing the assembly - Here's what TIS has to say about it, but then that does seem over the top!

Exercise caution with this option there is a neat little phrase in the manual about re-aligning the parts. I just have a hunch that will be a real bitch to get right unless you are very familiar with the inner workings of an F23 Getrag box.

[Crazyfrog (Fab)]

I considered liquid nitrogen but it seems it costs almost as much as the short shifter itself a bottle.

Liquid Nitrogen

whats next dynamite!!!

[RCduck7]

I considered liquid nitrogen but it seems it costs almost as much as the short shifter itself a bottle.

Liquid Nitrogen

It's -192° fluent
Could it damage the axle the pin is on??

[petrolhead1]

As mentioned in the other thread I have the pin out. I used Mark Verboom's method with the following alterations. 1. Remove engine cover completely This enables me to use a big lump hammer with a full swing. I hit the spring dowel maybe 3 or 4 times really hard. After 1 or 2 strikes it was moving and once the friction was broken it came out really easily. I would not worry unduly about damaging the gearbox shaft because the engine mounts absorb a large proportion of the force applied. I think it must be the shock of the strike that gets it moving. 2. I used a brake pin remover from a 2 pin set sold by Halfords and made by laser. One of the 2 has a centre pin which sits neatly inside the centre of the dowel and helps locate it when struck. The punch goes into a socket and is wrapped in gaffer tape. The socket goes on an extension piece. 3. I put a T bar onto the top of the socket extension. This kept my fingers away from the impact area and gave me better control of the top of the bar. I didn't want it jumping up and smashing into any of the electrics or the clam. I had previously detached the expansion tank and the sensor cable underneath it to enable me to maneouvre the head of the punch to the right angle. 4. Loosened the undertray to retrieve any bits I dropped during the proceedure. Next phase is the circlip. I plan to raise the back of the car, take off some undertray and attack it from underneath. I couldn't see what I was doing from above.

Edited by petrolhead1, 21 October 2007 - 10:15 PM.

[RCduck7]

I searched a freezing kit in Belgium stores where i live but they don't know what it is or can't seem to get hold of it. Pitty as it should help to remove the pin. So tried to order at wickes but they won't accept my postcode as i am from Belgiium. Any alternatives where i can order this product? Can't seem to find it with B&Q.

[luna_s]

im not sure how it will help but

here maybe ?

[RCduck7]

I managed to bang the pin out with some freeze stuff and penetrating oil. Then a little more oil and the freeze product again. Still had to bang it hard but the little bastard is out now. I couldn't imagine work after that would be harder but it is. That half metal ring and rubber ring i'm trying to get out is driving me crazy. I used a mirror to see what i'm doing and i managed to get a small screwdriver underneath the metal ring but the metal ring or/and screwdriver bounces back of when i use some force to remove it. Any advice??

Edited by RCduck7, 31 October 2007 - 01:51 PM.

[Crazyfrog (Fab)]

I managed to bang the pin out with some freeze stuff and penetrating oil.
Then a little more oil and the freeze product again.
Still had to bang it hard but the little bastard is out now.
I couldn't imagine work after that would be harder but it is.
That half metal ring and rubber ring i'm trying to get out is driving me crazy.
I used a mirror to see what i'm doing and i managed to get a small screwdriver underneath the metal ring but the metal ring or/and screwdriver bounces back of when i use some force to remove it.
Any advice??

in the end this stupid clip flew off somewhere was please to see the end of it
keep on trying it will come off very fiddly i'm afraid
specially i had to hold the mirror

[RCduck7]

I managed to bang the pin out with some freeze stuff and penetrating oil.
Then a little more oil and the freeze product again.
Still had to bang it hard but the little bastard is out now.
I couldn't imagine work after that would be harder but it is.
That half metal ring and rubber ring i'm trying to get out is driving me crazy.
I used a mirror to see what i'm doing and i managed to get a small screwdriver underneath the metal ring but the metal ring or/and screwdriver bounces back of when i use some force to remove it.
Any advice??

in the end this stupid clip flew off somewhere was please to see the end of it
keep on trying it will come off very fiddly i'm afraid
specially i had to hold the mirror

Managed to get it of with a steady hand.
Work can progress, the short shifter should be in place today if everything goes right.

[Crazyfrog (Fab)]

I managed to bang the pin out with some freeze stuff and penetrating oil.
Then a little more oil and the freeze product again.
Still had to bang it hard but the little bastard is out now.
I couldn't imagine work after that would be harder but it is.
That half metal ring and rubber ring i'm trying to get out is driving me crazy.
I used a mirror to see what i'm doing and i managed to get a small screwdriver underneath the metal ring but the metal ring or/and screwdriver bounces back of when i use some force to remove it.
Any advice??

in the end this stupid clip flew off somewhere was please to see the end of it
keep on trying it will come off very fiddly i'm afraid
specially i had to hold the mirror

Managed to get it of with a steady hand.
Work can progress, the short shifter should be in place today if everything goes right.

after its a piece of cake you have done the worst part

tu devrais etre content du resultat laisse moi savoir
j'ai monter le miens le mois dernier
j'espere que tuparle francais

Edited by fab72, 31 October 2007 - 04:03 PM.

[JG]

What a lot of effort for a negative improvment.

[Crazyfrog (Fab)]

What a lot of effort for a negative improvment.

improvement not negative
much better fell on the gear change not has clumsy has it was before

[RCduck7]

Work done and did a testdrive an hour ago. I'm glad with the result, it is shorter but not very much, just right. At first i strugled to get it into 2nd gear, it felt kinda strange and i wasn't confident that it was in the sweetspot. It felt much shorter, not only the throw but the spot when you get it in gear felt shorter to. But soon i got more confident and could pick up gears quicker. As i went up in the gears, each gear up felt marginally longer But with the VX you have to be firm and actually quit push it into gear, nothing changed there but i wasn't expecting that with such a modest mod. In my previous car, a Honda S2000 you could change gears with your fingertips as a matter of speaking, it was that easy, it couldn't feel more natural and was kinda addictive. But the S2000 has one of the best manual gearboxes in the world!! Still, as changing gears in a VX is a little more physical then an S2000 it might make you feel more part of the car. Oh, and Fab, my wife speaks French!!

Edited by RCduck7, 31 October 2007 - 06:49 PM.

[Crazyfrog (Fab)]

Work done and did a testdrive an hour ago.
I'm glad with the result, it is shorter but not very much, just right.
At first i strugled to get it into 2nd gear, it felt kinda strange and i wasn't confident that it was in the sweetspot.
It felt much shorter, not only the throw but the spot when you get it in gear felt shorter to.
But soon i got more confident and could pick up gears quicker.
As i went up in the gears, each gear up felt marginally longer
But with the VX you have to be firm and actually quit push it into gear, nothing changed there but i wasn't expecting that with such a modest mod.
In my previous car, a Honda S2000 you could change gears with your fingertips as a matter of speaking, it was that easy, it couldn't feel more natural and was kinda addictive.
But the S2000 has one of the best manual gearboxes in the world!!
Still, as changing gears in a VX is a little more physical then an S2000 it might make you feel more part of the car.

Oh, and Fab, my wife speaks French!!

sorry i thought you might
enjoy the mussels and the bier ohhh a nice blanche non pasteurized i miss it