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Shock / Suspension Fitting Guide


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#41 Mike (Cliffie)

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Posted 26 August 2009 - 09:33 PM

My MOT test highlighted that there was possible rubbing/touching between the OSF shocker and the upper mount.
I will get the wheel off and try to make some more space in the mount.

Nitron sell a revised bracket, tho may be hard to get them to sell it without a shock kit

Alternatively a gentle tap with a hammer at the lower part (ie below the relief hole) will move it a few mm's :)


Just finished fitting mine, thanks for the 'how to' Adam thumbsup

But my 'gold's' came with an extra 'locking' adjuster on the height adjustment so even when slightly bending back the mount the shock body fitted fine but when assembled the height could not be fully altered so it was out with the Dremell...

Anyone fitting them save yourself a few hours of swearing and just take about 5mm off each side of the mount, fits perfect then with no touching and plenty of clearance for adjustment thumbsup

chinky chinky


Sorry Mr Simba, I'm struggling to understand what needs trimming off of where!? Could you help me out please (preferably with pictures) as will be fitting my golds soon. Cheers


There are collars supplied that inset top and bottom, two at each end of each shock.

The bottom ones prove to be a bit of a snug fit and it helps when fitting to shave a few mm off before fitting. I think 5mm may be excessive but I have not seen Mr. S' collars.

Some could call these spacers, collars or collets but they are the same thing.

#42 mandarinvx

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Posted 26 August 2009 - 09:35 PM

I think MrSimba was referring to the top bracket on the OSF, as it's quite a tight fit to get the shock in there

#43 MrSimba

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Posted 26 August 2009 - 09:49 PM

I think MrSimba was referring to the top bracket on the OSF, as it's quite a tight fit to get the shock in there


:yeahthat:

I could get the shock body in by opening it out a little but then could not wind the collar up as much as I needed too so out with the Dremel!

Only needed to take about 5mm off each edge tho and then everything was good thumbsup

#44 mandarinvx

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Posted 26 August 2009 - 09:50 PM

How low have you set the front :blink: I take it you have the standard 8" long front springs :unsure:

#45 MrSimba

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Posted 26 August 2009 - 10:21 PM

Fronts set by Gugliemi's at 125mm not sure what the spring lengths were just know they are 475 / 425 Gaz reccomendations. Dave at Gugliemi's did coment that it would not be possible to fully adjust without the Dremeling I'd done (I wanted to fit them myself to allow the springs to settle before getting the geo done) though I know my set of Golds were only the 4th set sold so maybe they have changed the spring length now? All sorted on my car tho it really rides superbly on the Gaz shocks and for the money a bargain thumbsup I altered the damping to 8F / 10R a coupleof weeks ago and find that more resonsive than the 7F / 9R I had before and the car settles over 'bumps' much better as well.

#46 rcvaughan

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Posted 27 August 2009 - 02:51 PM

Fronts set by Gugliemi's at 125mm not sure what the spring lengths were just know they are 475 / 425 Gaz reccomendations.

Dave at Gugliemi's did coment that it would not be possible to fully adjust without the Dremeling I'd done (I wanted to fit them myself to allow the springs to settle before getting the geo done) though I know my set of Golds were only the 4th set sold so maybe they have changed the spring length now?

All sorted on my car tho it really rides superbly on the Gaz shocks and for the money a bargain thumbsup

I altered the damping to 8F / 10R a coupleof weeks ago and find that more resonsive than the 7F / 9R I had before and the car settles over 'bumps' much better as well.


The damping setting. Is that clicks in the positive setting from full negative?

#47 Cookies220

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Posted 27 August 2009 - 04:14 PM

I will give you a pm when I know dates. I just wish I had not sold the T20, but then you would not sell it back to me. :gayfight:


:lol: :lol: :lol:

#48 mandarinvx

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Posted 27 August 2009 - 06:04 PM

The damping setting. Is that clicks in the positive setting from full negative?

From negative - the valving in the Golds is much harsher than in the standard shocks :)

#49 VXTyrant

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Posted 13 October 2009 - 12:54 PM

How much should I expect to pay for a full set of these coilovers and where is the best place to buy them from? chinky chinky

#50 sc-009

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Posted 13 October 2009 - 09:43 PM

Just a note. Twin tubes are normally fitted the other way up because of the gas chamber and valving in the tubes. The gas can/does mix and the damper relies on gravity to keep gas/fliud where its supposed to be.

With the GAZ its not so much a problem becuase the gas champer is in a bag/chamber to prevent the gas from mixing with the fluid.

The standard billies are monotubes.

http://www.hksusa.com/info/?id=2838

#51 mandarinvx

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Posted 13 October 2009 - 09:46 PM

How much should I expect to pay for a full set of these coilovers and where is the best place to buy them from? chinky chinky

For the Golds - around £450ish I think :)

#52 VXTyrant

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Posted 13 October 2009 - 10:49 PM

How much should I expect to pay for a full set of these coilovers and where is the best place to buy them from? chinky chinky

For the Golds - around £450ish I think :)

Really? I've had a quick look and although I can't find them for the VX specifically, they seem to be around the £800 mark for other Vauxhall's. >THESE< claim to be "the UK's leading distributor of GAZ GOLD coilovers" and they "cannot be beaten on price". Yet their kits are all £780 (not for VX but for all their listed Vauxhall's).

If they are around £800 I was thinking £400 extra could be spent on getting one-way Nitrons (if they are as good as what people say they are)! Are Nitrons worth the extra cash?

#53 MrSimba

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Posted 13 October 2009 - 11:08 PM

How much should I expect to pay for a full set of these coilovers and where is the best place to buy them from? chinky chinky

For the Golds - around £450ish I think :)

Really? I've had a quick look and although I can't find them for the VX specifically, they seem to be around the £800 mark for other Vauxhall's. >THESE< claim to be "the UK's leading distributor of GAZ GOLD coilovers" and they "cannot be beaten on price". Yet their kits are all £780 (not for VX but for all their listed Vauxhall's).

If they are around £800 I was thinking £400 extra could be spent on getting one-way Nitrons (if they are as good as what people say they are)! Are Nitrons worth the extra cash?


Email 'absolutely-shocks' (Gaz ;) ) and ask them for a price on Golds thumbsup

http://cgi.ebay.co.u...id=p3286.c0.m14

They will be a LOT less than £800!

chinky chinky

*Edit*

http://cgi.ebay.co.u...id=p3286.c0.m14

Edited by MrSimba, 13 October 2009 - 11:18 PM.


#54 VXTyrant

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Posted 14 October 2009 - 01:35 AM

Email 'absolutely-shocks' (Gaz ;) ) and ask them for a price on Golds thumbsup

http://cgi.ebay.co.u...id=p3286.c0.m14

They will be a LOT less than £800!

chinky chinky

*Edit*

http://cgi.ebay.co.u...id=p3286.c0.m14

Ah. Nice one Simba. Saved me a small fortune there :) chinky chinky

#55 TheStotts

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Posted 29 March 2011 - 09:36 PM

Great guide mandarin Imnotworthy

Pending delivery I'm going to have a crack at this tomorrow but have a couple of potentially daft questions (especially the first one!)

To retain the same ride height do you simply assemble the replacement shock to be same length as the current one or would taking this approach result in the car sitting higher due to the higher spring rates?

According to the Seloc Wiki the bolts need to be torqued to 45nm. Does that sound about right?

Is thread locker needed? Would Loctite 248 do the job or is a stronger formula needed?

Are c-spanners needed to adjust the locking rings or are they easy to move when off the car? And for good measure are spring compressors needed at all? Guessing not but...

Thanks for any advice,

Dave chinky chinky

#56 Whiteboy

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Posted 30 March 2011 - 02:52 PM

[quote name='TheStotts' timestamp='1301434610' post='1165682']
Great guide mandarin Imnotworthy

Pending delivery I'm going to have a crack at this tomorrow but have a couple of potentially daft questions (especially the first one!)

To retain the same ride height do you simply assemble the replacement shock to be same length as the current one or would taking this approach result in the car sitting higher due to the higher spring rates? Dave as the body is shorter you will not be able to have oe ride height on the front. You will need to have the geo adjusted so just set up the ride height that you want.Posted Image

According to the Seloc Wiki the bolts need to be torqued to 45nm. Does that sound about right? Yes 45nm

Is thread locker needed? Would Loctite 248 do the job or is a stronger formula needed? You donot need lock tight, but could buy new bolts, I didnot bother.

Are c-spanners needed to adjust the locking rings or are they easy to move when off the car? And for good measure are spring compressors needed at all? Guessing not but... The c spanner is in the box and if not send me a pm and you can have mine. You will not need a spring compressor and donot forget to loosen/tighten the allen key lock nut before and after movement. Start with the o/s/f and the rest will be easy. Gently hammer the edges of the top bracket and the body of the shock will fit straight away. Just remember I fitted these so it really is that easy. chinky chinky The worst bit of the job is the ride height.


Steve

Edited by Whiteboy, 30 March 2011 - 02:57 PM.


#57 TheStotts

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Posted 30 March 2011 - 06:59 PM

Just remember I fitted these so it really is that easy. chinky chinky

:lol:

Many thanks for your advice, Steve Imnotworthy

Unfortunately they didn’t arrive today, did only order them yesterday though!

A small drop in height sounds good. It's handy having Guglielmi on the door step so will just aim to get it rough, let the springs settle and then get the geo done.

Will post up how I get on.

Cheers,

Dave thumbsup

#58 TheStotts

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Posted 31 March 2011 - 09:58 PM

These beauties arrived today courtesy of Mike (Cliffie) :groupjump:

Posted Image

Only managed to fit the OSF so far as the bracket proved to be a right pain in the arse and wouldn't respond to hammer blows! Ended up filing it down and now have a good 2mm of clearance

Just a couple of questions for the gurus...

Ended up using the original top spacers. Does this look right?

Posted Image

Surprisingly the car is sitting at almost exactly the same as on the old shocks. Guessing this will settle over time. How long is it best to wait before getting the geo done?

Bit confused about the 3mm allen key. What is this for? Can't find anything on the shock. There's what looks like a grub screw on the adjuster knob but on closer inspection it isn't, probably. Do I need new glasses?!

Other 3 corners, adjustments to ride height and rear brakes to do tomorrow. All good fun :)

#59 chris_uk

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Posted 31 March 2011 - 10:40 PM

on the rings there should be a brub screw to stop them turning.

#60 chris_uk

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Posted 31 March 2011 - 10:41 PM

for example

Posted Image




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