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Piper Exhaust Manifold


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#1 Retset

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Posted 30 March 2009 - 10:29 AM

I have 2.4 manifold and full Milltek. Been thinking about a map for some time but bumped into a chap who extolled the virtues of the TMS manifold and said how much quicker the car was. A grand seems a lot though so I have got to thinking about the Piper one. I think from what I have read elsewhere it will bolt on to the Milltek but would appreciate a confirmation. Second, do you think that the manifold and a remap would be the best way to go to get the maximum cheap upgrading of my engine? I'm not in the s/c mood at the moment but would like to optimise what is there already.

#2 PiperRS

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Posted 30 March 2009 - 10:36 AM

I have 2.4 manifold and full Milltek. Been thinking about a map for some time but bumped into a chap who extolled the virtues of the TMS manifold and said how much quicker the car was. A grand seems a lot though so I have got to thinking about the Piper one.

I think from what I have read elsewhere it will bolt on to the Milltek but would appreciate a confirmation.

Second, do you think that the manifold and a remap would be the best way to go to get the maximum cheap upgrading of my engine? I'm not in the s/c mood at the moment but would like to optimise what is there already.


Our manifold will bolt directly to the standard Milltek downpipe with no problem :)

Posted Image
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Only £349.99 and we have them in stock so ticks your requirements for a cheap mod :D

Available direct or from any of our dealers like Courtenay Sport.

Kind Regards

Garry Curley
Race Product Development Dept

Edited by PiperRS, 30 March 2009 - 10:37 AM.


#3 Retset

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Posted 30 March 2009 - 10:37 AM

Thanks - forgot I could have PM'd you direct :blush:

#4 techieboy

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Posted 30 March 2009 - 10:39 AM

Should fit fine. Definitely get a remap done, even if it's only to shift the rev limit up 300rpm. Makes a huge difference and I really miss not having the higher rev limit on my car since the SC conversion (need to sort out my lazy fuel pump first).

#5 Winstar

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Posted 30 March 2009 - 10:42 AM

speak to muncher about the chris tullett one, as that has longer and even length runners

#6 vocky

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Posted 30 March 2009 - 10:43 AM

fit some cams before getting the remap done thumbsup

#7 Muncher

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Posted 30 March 2009 - 10:52 AM

speak to muncher about the chris tullett one, as that has longer and even length runners



Ding.

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#8 Retset

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Posted 30 March 2009 - 10:59 AM

That also fits I guess as I read they make different diameters. Milltek is 2.5"? Which one needs the least messing around with extra heat shielding?

#9 Muncher

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Posted 30 March 2009 - 11:05 AM

Yes it will fit the Milltek. Chris's one requires adjustment of the heatshield, but it should produce better power as it's equal length. I would leave the heatshield off and replace the long section across the boot with nimbus bolted on as it will make removing the clam a lot easier.

#10 PiperRS

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Posted 30 March 2009 - 11:49 AM

That also fits I guess as I read they make different diameters. Milltek is 2.5"?

Which one needs the least messing around with extra heat shielding?


I would double check on the size of the Milltek first. Im 90% sure its a 2" system.

Our manifold fits with standard heatshield and has the brackets for it :) Plug and Play design, lol.

Muncher - How much is the Tullet one. Looks nice chinky chinky

Kind Regards

Garry Curley
Race Product Development Dept

#11 Muncher

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Posted 30 March 2009 - 11:54 AM

That also fits I guess as I read they make different diameters. Milltek is 2.5"?

Which one needs the least messing around with extra heat shielding?


I would double check on the size of the Milltek first. Im 90% sure its a 2" system.

Our manifold fits with standard heatshield and has the brackets for it :) Plug and Play design, lol.

Muncher - How much is the Tullet one. Looks nice chinky chinky

Kind Regards

Garry Curley
Race Product Development Dept



I don't have the figure yet Garry but I think Chris said under £500 INC VAT.

So it's a bit more expensive but on the flip side his downpipe and cat is actually pretty cheap.

#12 PiperRS

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Posted 30 March 2009 - 12:56 PM

I don't have the figure yet Garry but I think Chris said under £500 INC VAT.

So it's a bit more expensive but on the flip side his downpipe and cat is actually pretty cheap.


Good price that given the work that goes into it :)

We priced up one like the TMS one and came up with a similar price tag to them so did not bother :)

Good luck with the sales and sorting the noise issues out ;) It will "Litterally" be a headache :)

Kind Regards

Garry Curley
Race Product Development Dept

#13 Muncher

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Posted 30 March 2009 - 01:20 PM

I managed the 2 hour drive home without getting a headache :P I'm not selling any, just helping Chris out and looking for advice on minor niggles, like noise :P

#14 PaulCP

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Posted 30 March 2009 - 04:01 PM

Looking at both designs there are alot of welds. When i had a regal SS manifold some years ago i had to have it re-welded 3 times since the heat was causing small cracks on and by the welds (although on one occasion it was clear rthat the weld hadn't penetrated deeply enough) What do you guys think about the longevity of the welds with the additional heat generated by a SC

Edited by PaulCP, 30 March 2009 - 04:03 PM.


#15 The Batman

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Posted 30 March 2009 - 04:26 PM

Good luck with the sales and sorting the noise issues out ;) It will "Litterally" be a headache :)


:lol:

#16 Muncher

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Posted 30 March 2009 - 04:32 PM

The welding looks spot on to me, very, very neat. It come with a lifetime warranty in any case. The vast majority of the stuff he does is of a special nature, lots of drag racing cars and a world touring car team, so I imagine the heat of a supercharger on a vx is small fry considering the abuse his other work has to put up with.

#17 PiperRS

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Posted 31 March 2009 - 06:29 AM

Looking at both designs there are alot of welds. When i had a regal SS manifold some years ago i had to have it re-welded 3 times since the heat was causing small cracks on and by the welds (although on one occasion it was clear rthat the weld hadn't penetrated deeply enough)

What do you guys think about the longevity of the welds with the additional heat generated by a SC


Paul

In a perfect world their would be no joints in the manifold but sadly because of the space given you need to cut and shut the bends in order to get where your going. Im not aware of a bending machine that could make those tubes without cutting the bends. :(

We offer a lifetime warranty with our manifolds and are very confident you will not have any issues even when supercharged :)

Kind Regards

Garry Curley
Race Product Development Dept

#18 Retset

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Posted 31 March 2009 - 08:54 AM

This is all very interesting. The Piper costs less and is easier to install. I appreciate the other one may well have a better flow but is the Piper one still going to be a significant improvement over standard? I.e. I will feel the difference ;) I appreciate what Vocky says about the cams but don't want to go that way. I have already decided that if I want a big power hike, I will go with the CS Stage 1 at £3.7K all in so don't want to spend a fortune in between. I see my Milltek as something useful that can be retained and the same with an exhaust manifold. I would also like an opinion on the intake end - is there anything genuinely worthwhile doing, like airbox mods, or is it a total waste of dosh? I keep reading those tempting induction kit ads but it all seems at odds with what I read about user experiences on here. Also, will a larger TB do me any good or will it all end up a hassle to get it running right? Alternatively, what about having the current one ported?

#19 vocky

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Posted 31 March 2009 - 10:12 AM

If you tried each of the tubular 4-1 manifolds (TMS, Tullet, Piper) on a RR I'm sure you would see a BHP difference between them, but on the road I doubt you would really notice a great difference :unsure: If you intend going sc then cams are not worth doing, but it might be worth making a new inlet pipe to the throttle body. use some plastic drainpipe from B&Q, a silicone elbow from any good car spares shop and stick a k+n filter on the other end, a cheap but good induction system.

#20 Retset

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Posted 31 March 2009 - 10:24 AM

Cool advice Vocky. I seem to remember a thread on here with some Vectra pipe ... will try to find it. Edit: Got to find something to do with the remaining drain pipe from the heater mod ;)

Edited by Retset, 31 March 2009 - 10:25 AM.





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