84 replies to this topic

[dude]

isn´t there anyone that can take their "scaredstiff"-car to a computer wheelaligning and present the figures here, so we who don´t have the possibility to go there can try their settings. or send me a pm with the settings //anders

[clipping_point]

Every car seems to leave the factory with different settings

That´s Lotus build quality!!

Cant imagine Scared Stiff does anything to the Caster. I lowered my car, measured it, and have made adjustments after that. Might perform a measurement to confirm my measurements, still for £10. Would be "Scared Stiff" if the bill was £140.

[garyk220]

Anders, the Lotus 340R settings may be a useful starting point. I don't imagine the Scared Stiff settings will be too dissimilar.

[dude]

thanks gary! anyone who has the 340r settings then?. //anders

[clipping_point]

Ask at Pistonheads, an I'll ask at the SELOC forum.

[clipping_point]

Found this: as taken and digested from BCBBS Archives: 340R settings: ride height: front 100mm/rear 110mm steering axis inclination 12° nominal castor +3.8° road use front camber -0.5° rear camber -2° front alignment 0.2mm toe-out overall rear alignment 1.5mm toe-in each side dry track use front camber -1.8° rear camber -2.7° front alignment 0.5mm toe-out overall rear alignment 2.5mm toe-in each side ------------------------------------------------------------------ Rob E settings: ride height: front 105mm/rear 115mm castor left 3.52°/right 3.42° front camber left -1.17°/right -1.27° rear camber left -2.12°/right -2.33° front alignment left -0.4mm/right -0.3mm rear alignment left 1.9mm/right 2.1mm ------------------------------------------------------------------ Bob van M suggested settings: ride height: front 110mm/rear 115mm castor 4° 10' front front camber -1.4° rear camber -2.42° front alignment 0.6mm toe-out overall rear alignment 2.5mm toe-in each side ------------------------------------------------------------------ LSS settings: ride height: front 100mm/rear 110mm castor 3.8° front front camber -0.3° rear camber -2.0° front alignment 0.2mm toe-out overall rear alignment 1.2mm toe-in each side ------------------------------------------------------------------ Simon S suggested settings for the given ride height: ride height: front 115mm/rear 125mm castor 3.8° front front camber -1.0° rear camber -2.0° front alignment 0°15" toe-out overall rear alignment 0°30" toe-in overall ------------------------------------------------------------------ std S1 settings: ride height: front 140mm/rear 140mm castor 4° front front camber -0.1° rear camber -1.8° front alignment 0.2mm toe-out overall rear alignment 1.2mm toe-in each side

[clipping_point]

Mine will be darn close to the 340R "dry track" spec. Stunning since I've tested myself and concluded these setting are good

[garyk220]

Lotus 340R Suspension settings from Elise Service Manual Front suspension; ----------------------- Ride height; 100/110 front/rear Castor; +3.8 degrees, +/- 0.2 degrees (maximum side/side 0.2 degrees) Camber (road/wet track settings); -0.5 degrees, +0.1 degrees/-0.2 degrees (maximum side/side 0.2 degrees) Toe (road/wet track settings); 0.2 mm toe out overall, +0.2mm/-0 Camber (dry track settings); -1.8 degrees, +0.1 degrees/-0.2 degrees (maximum side/side 0.2 degrees) Toe (dry track settings); 0.5 mm toe out overall, +0.2mm/-0 Rear suspension; ---------------------- Camber (road/wet track settings); -2.0 degrees, +0.2 degrees/-0 degrees (maximum side/side 0.2 degrees) Toe (road/wet track settings); 1.5 mm toe in each side, +0.2mm/-0 (maximum side/side 0.2mm) Camber (dry track settings); -2.7 degrees, +/-0.2 degrees (maximum side/side 0.2 degrees) Toe (dry track settings); 2.5 mm toe in each side, +0.2mm/-0 (maximum side/side 0.2mm) Gary

[dude]

[clipping_point]

Yeah, but I would skip the cold air induction, since it actually is "hot air"

Is it though? The Viper has a carbon surround inside the cone, the aim of which is to shield the air from the heat of the engine - something not done by the standard airbox.

Made a small calculation:

If you have
-50 °C in the engine compartment
- 10 °C in the inlet air
- run the motor at 6000 rpm
- use a 70 mm dia plastic tube as inlet air duct of 0,5 m length

..then the temperature will increase 0,3 °C on its way to the engine

If you run the engine at 3000 the temperature will increase to 10,6 °C, see piccy!

So, I'm sorry you won't gain anything, but you will be stuck with a hefty bill. They rely on peoples reluctance to make any REAL changes, and just fit a conical carbon look filter.

Attached Files

•  airbox.jpg   72.82KB   0 downloads

[Jim_Cross]

That's commitment! Whether you get improved power or not, whether you get a noticeable decrease in air temp going into the engine or not, there is still the possibility to see improvements in air flow which can still improve throttle response etc, no?

[clipping_point]

I think if a smaller air box volume is used then the frequency for self-resonance will move upwards in the engine rpms. The flow will be reduced at low rpms tho, so it is a question of balance, and Opel/Vauxhall know it.

[UKspeedster]

So, I'm sorry you won't gain anything, but you will be stuck with a hefty bill. They rely on peoples reluctance to make any REAL changes, and just fit a conical carbon look filter.

I'm not going to check your calculation as the maths degree was a bit too long ago

Am I right in thinking that the plain 'vanilla' car will just suck in air from the engine bay though, so that will be at the 50deg rather than 10deg?

Also, I understood the benefits of the Viper to be two fold - both the cold air feed as well as the shape inducing a swirling of the air entering the engine to create a ram type effect and increasing the airflow further.

I might be falling for the marketing spiel though!!

[clipping_point]

All cars I've owned take the air from the grille or an intake, through a duct. Thus fresh ambient air will enter the system. On the contrary many aftermarket filter replacements rely more on the appearence and will feed warm air to the engine. A standard system NEVER. As for the swirling effect .... it will create a pressure drop and decrease the flow.

[UKspeedster]

I bow to your superior knowledge, but this is the garb on the Viper:

The technology used in the VIPER was first seen on the Lotus 340R, but now Pipercross are making it available for an ever increasing range of popular road cars. The cold air feed takes air from behind the grill straight into the VIPER’s 100mm diameter inlet, swirling it through a unique Pipercross velocity filter contained within a carbon fibre heat shield, and then into a ram pipe to increase it’s pressure before feeding it into the induction system

More power is achieved using the Viper compared to other induction kits because of two things. First, with the cold feed being at the front of the car, you benefit from the ram effect of the air being forced into the tube. This goes up as the square of the road speed. So you get four times the pressure force at twice the speed. What this really means is that the engine has an easier job sucking the air in, hence making it more efficient and therefore more powerful. (That's the ex-engineer coming out in me! - Colin).

The second benefit of the Viper is that cold air is fed into the engine from outside the car instead of under the bonnet where temperatures are high. Also, the carbon fibre heat shield protects the air charge from under bonnet heat. This means that the air entering the engine is more dense because it is colder and again it is then easier for the engine to suck in the amount of air it needs. So, in summary, what the Viper does is help the engine to gulp in the air more efficiently - hence more power.

[clipping_point]

The heat shielding effect, see above. NO EFFECT! 1st. The ram effect only works if the inlet points straight forward, in the front of the car. Otherwise you need a scoop pointing forward, as a drag racer or a F1 car. If you have that effect you will gain 0,5 % at 100 km/h and 2 % at 200 km/h ((rho x w square)/2). Thorneys car can gain more at 280 km/h ! NO EFFECT! 2nd The air in the VX xomes from the side vent, doesn't it, left one? Hence cool and fresh already. NO EFFECT!

Edited by clipping_point, 24 March 2004 - 06:27 PM.

[Thorney]

CP is right there, for ram air to have any effect it must be direct feed and ideally linear to intakes. Looks at modern sportbikes they foul up aesthetics to get a ram air duct smack in the middle of the fairing.

[Thorney]

I have to say the VXT standard airbox is already pretty good and does have a cold air feed from the vent. It doesn't make a flash noise and it doesn't fail the AMM, I wont be changing mine until an alternative comes up which puts my fears at rest.

[Jase_MK]

Found this:

as taken and digested from BCBBS Archives:

340R settings:

ride height: front 100mm/rear 110mm
.
.
.

Excellent. How much of this can I do myself and how much needs to be done by a pro? I can adjust the ride height myself. Camber is with the aid of the shims but presumably you need to know what it is currently, before making changes?

[clipping_point]

It is only the camber I do myself. Can you adjust the ride height yourself? I cannot, lowered my car by new springs. Did a test, and let them adjust the toe rear and front. Thereafter I adjusted the camber again, by removing shims, each shim=0,5°.

Also see:
http://www.vx220.org...t=ST&f=9&t=4540