68 replies to this topic

[d4nnyk]

Although for some reason my airbag light is constantly on now, just got to fix that.

Sounds like you must of turned the ignition on with the airbag disconnected - If you have access to OP-COM (or a tech2), you can reset the airbag ecu and turn the light off...

Yes I did!!, I have a OP-COM but haven't managed to get it to read my ECU yet, I will give it another try, thanks

[d4nnyk]

Now more photos.

With the new CL module connector, I then modded the alarm module connect:



Just stuck a small screwdriver in to widen the hole, then cut a connect up and soldered on to the alarm input cables on the CL module:

Connector:



Connector cut:



Cut connector soldered to cable:



With the alarm module:

Connect the cables



6 = unlock
2 = lock

Then refitted the dash and door panels etc...

All working perfectly!!!!

[Ouchie]

Why did you need to remove the steering wheel anyway?

[d4nnyk]

Why did you need to remove the steering wheel anyway?

You need to remove the instrument panel so you can remove the dash, and to do that you need to remove the steering column, and there ere two screws behind the steering wheel to remove the column.

[snoopstah]

Why did you need to remove the steering wheel anyway?

You need to remove the instrument panel so you can remove the dash, and to do that you need to remove the steering column, and there ere two screws behind the steering wheel to remove the column.

No, you don't, but it's a bit late now

But for next time, you only need to remove the radio and the two dash plates to get the dash off, takes about 15 minutes.

[d4nnyk]

Why did you need to remove the steering wheel anyway?

You need to remove the instrument panel so you can remove the dash, and to do that you need to remove the steering column, and there ere two screws behind the steering wheel to remove the column.

No, you don't, but it's a bit late now

But for next time, you only need to remove the radio and the two dash plates to get the dash off, takes about 15 minutes.

I did try that before removing the instrument panel but the dash would not remove because of a lip the instrument rests on, on the dash. Wasn't till I removed the instrument panel the dash came out.

Oh well all done now

[starlight]

I had the same problem when I replaced my Alarm - the dash top just would not come off with the stack in place...

[techieboy]

Just needs a bit of welly to disconnect it and maybe a bit of a wiggle of the binnacle.

[Ouchie]

Why did you need to remove the steering wheel anyway?

You need to remove the instrument panel so you can remove the dash, and to do that you need to remove the steering column, and there ere two screws behind the steering wheel to remove the column.

Doh! However, if I was removing your dash top you would not want to be watching. The look on your face would turn milk sour

Pull the binnacle towards you while pushing up on the dash top to release the flappy bit at the back of the binnacle from the metal "C" shaped groove on the dash top. Wait for a BANG.

[M3KDJ]

Top guide - fitted mine at the weekend and saved a good few hours using your instructions. Best £14 I've spent! (what am I going to do with all that time saved not having to walk round to the passenger door!) BTW, I took the alarm unit apart and soldered the lock/unlock wires directly to the back of the connector block to save butchering the multiplug - small hole drilled in the side so the wires can exit.

[goodeg]

Did you connect the unlock signal to the fuel cutoff inertia switch so that it will unlock in the event of an accident? Or do you not have the ability to lock the car from the inside?

[M3KDJ]

Without fitting an extra switch there isn't any way of locking from the inside.

[Paulus H]

There's a reason virtually all cars have remote central locking - it is very convenient. Bummer, one more mod for me to contemplate. Thanks for sharing this with us all.....

[Ouchie]

I had the car apart at the weekend but didn't bother finishing off the install. My only concern is being able to unlock the doors if the servos loose power from either a dead battery or broken wire. If I assume that a broken wire is very unlikely so can be ignored what is the general opinion about overcoming the dead battery problem. 1. bonnet release cable routed to the driver side wheel arch to allow access to the battery 2. backup battery like on the Turbo with a momentary switch to engage it 3. So what. Deal with it when it happens. meh. Regarding the backup battery, is it a rechargeable unit on the OEM install on Turbos?

[goodeg]

Regarding the backup battery, is it a rechargeable unit on the OEM install on Turbos?

Looking at the schematics I would say it was a rechargeable battery.

I think a battery would be my prefered option as it would allow you to get in if you where out somewhere with no access to a charger. But then again if you have no access to a charger then what use is getting in so either an external release or some accessible wires connected to the battery so it can be charged easily.

[Ouchie]

Edit: Very delayed double post

Edited by Ouchie, 15 September 2009 - 11:05 AM.

[Yellow_or_black?]

There's dust in your grooves monkey boy - the needle's sticking

[Ouchie]

Regarding the backup battery, is it a rechargeable unit on the OEM install on Turbos?

Looking at the schematics I would say it was a rechargeable battery.

I think a battery would be my prefered option as it would allow you to get in if you where out somewhere with no access to a charger. But then again if you have no access to a charger then what use is getting in so either an external release or some accessible wires connected to the battery so it can be charged easily.

I guess that is the right way to go.
Dead battery = stuck until jump started/replacement battery installed.
Would be nice to sit in the car if it is raining though. /worst case scenario/

There's dust in your grooves monkey boy - the needle's sticking

[M3KDJ]

Regarding the backup battery, is it a rechargeable unit on the OEM install on Turbos?

Looking at the schematics I would say it was a rechargeable battery.

I think a battery would be my prefered option as it would allow you to get in if you where out somewhere with no access to a charger. But then again if you have no access to a charger then what use is getting in so either an external release or some accessible wires connected to the battery so it can be charged easily.

I guess that is the right way to go.
Dead battery = stuck until jump started/replacement battery installed.
Would be nice to sit in the car if it is raining though. /worst case scenario/

The easiest way to ensure you can get into the car with a flat battery/broken control motor/dodgy central locking relay is to connect two wires to the lock/unlock wires that go to the motors (usually green & blue wires) - not the lock/unlock command wires from the module.

Run these wires through to the bonnet area, up through the plastic scuttle panel by the wiper arm, and along where the wiper blade sits and fit a waterproof terminal. If you leave them tucked under the corner of the bonnet you'll be able to fish them out and apply 12V to them - the motor(s) will then directly unlock regardless of flat battery or faulty parts (unless both motors have packed up or you dont have access to 12V!).

The only surefire way of ensuring you can get in is to fit a mechanical device attached to the same point as the locking motor in the door that pulls the lock to the open position when pulled from outside....

[Exmantaa]

The only surefire way of ensuring you can get in is to fit a mechanical device attached to the same point as the locking motor in the door that pulls the lock to the open position when pulled from outside....

Is that "mechanical device" to open the lock not called a key??
(Not sure on the inner workings of the VX lock, so maybe the key is useless when the CL is activated?)