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New Dry Sump System


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#21 steveboyslim

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Posted 26 December 2009 - 09:38 AM

The pan on the pace system doesn't tie into the main caps so doesn't fit my criteria. Also, I'm not convinced of the quality, doesn't even have swaged ends on the pipes out of the bottom of the pan.

I've not seen the Titan one though... any idea where I can get some pics?



I see where you are comming from, the engine I did with the dry sump I used a machined/ground plate replacing the stock frame (earlier XE/LET turbo engines do not use any frame in standard form, no problems with 500+bhp, I was told that the standard frame is more to stop harmonics than to add strength.
The non-swaged pipes on both drysump kits are on the scavange side of the pump, the link pipes cannot go anywhere and for over 30 years drysumps have be run like it with clips making a good seal.
Pressure side use proper threaded unions.

Steve

Edited by steveboyslim, 26 December 2009 - 09:39 AM.


#22 Crabash

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Posted 26 December 2009 - 01:49 PM

While I fully understand what you are trying to achive and I know you've seen the sandwich plate option after I spoke to you quite a while ago about options for the dry sump, but have you thought about the gearbox. I know that most dry sump pans I have seen are so slimline that the new low point is the bell housing, the system I had used a special one to be used with a small clutch which had the bottom of the housing cut away to allow more clearance for lowering the engine, could maybe also have offset bolt pattern (don't know about what would be in your way for this) to rotate gearbox a bit in relation to engine before you start rotating the engine therefore allowing engine to be lower and retain driveshaft angles berfore running into clearance issues at bulkhead. I don't know, just a thought I had and myself would look into.

Edited by Crabash, 26 December 2009 - 01:51 PM.


#23 cnrandall

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Posted 27 December 2009 - 10:30 AM

The gearbox is definitely being thought about... I will rotate the entire engine and box about the diff centre so the the driveline angles remain the same. Then it will be small clutch and flywheel and cutdown bell housing but first I need to get the sump functioning properly. If I had the budget I would go sequential with a race box designed for a low engine but sadly I don't. Steve- I appreciate the ladder is supposed to be there for NVH as opposed to stiffness but then with big power and a badly counterbalanced crank I don't think it's a bad plan to add as much stiffness as possible. The push fit hose might be OK but then I'm expecting this to be somewhat better than OK and if I can reduce the likeliness of a failure I will do... especially considering I have a hankering for doing another 24 hour race.

#24 cnrandall

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Posted 09 April 2010 - 10:20 AM

Bit of an update... I know it's been a while! The sump pan itself is now finished and just about to go on the car for final fitment and the tank will be here tomorrow so, fingers crossed, it will be running ready for dyno testing next week. What we have done is utilised the Pace pan but modified it to suit our purposes. We have made a fitting up which fits through the stock pan to the pick-up for the stock pressure pump and then to the dry sump tank. On building it all up we discovered that, with some machining work, we could get the stock block girdle to still fit so we have done this. The gearbox pick-ups which were part of the pan are in completely the wrong place to suit the M-32 box so we made up a plate to complete the job.

#25 cnrandall

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Posted 09 April 2010 - 10:22 AM

one more pic

#26 cnrandall

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Posted 09 April 2010 - 10:25 AM

one more pic



#27 Nev

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Posted 09 April 2010 - 05:01 PM

Chris,

As an aside, there is a hardened Z20LEx oil pump available on the market. I can't remember where I saw it for sale, but it was approx £350 with a nitrided and strengthed parts to reduce the chance of the impellor wheel from losing it's round teeth. If you intend to rev your car beyond 7500 this may be a worthwhile change in the long run... Just thought it might be useful to know Posted Image

Thanks for this thread, I won't be dry sumping my car as it's for road use, but it is an interesting read.

Edited by Nev, 09 April 2010 - 05:02 PM.


#28 cnrandall

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Posted 11 April 2010 - 10:46 AM

The hardened rotor is for the earlier engines which had sintered rotors which were prone to failure. The ler/leh ones already have an uprated pump as stock and you don't really hear of any issues. I'll post up a pic of the tank shortly, it's a work of art!

#29 Crabash

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Posted 12 April 2010 - 10:29 AM

:yeahthat: Many years ago I was building an XE with dry sump, part of the dry sump kit was a new oil pump gear etc due to the original being made from essentially compressed metal filings (sintered). Oh you managed to fit it in then, you were under that car half the day measuring while I was there lol.

Edited by Crabash, 12 April 2010 - 10:31 AM.





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