49 replies to this topic

[Nev]

I am just planning ahead a bit at the moment, trying to work out how I am going to provide the extra fuel to my new engine. Traditionally, when the OEM fuel pump can't provide enough pressure/volume of fuel people seem to install both a swirl pot and an extra high power fuel pump. As engine bay space is at a premium in the VX and I already have a surge collector in my Pro-Alloy fuel tank, I am speculating on simply installing a high power pump (say Bosche 044) into the system without the swirl pot. Persumably two pumps in series will be completely adequate to provide enough fuel for 425 BHP? Does anyone have any experience of this setup or reasoning why it will/will not work please? Thanks, Nev.

[Crazyfrog (Fab)]

joe 589:)

[rcvaughan]

Cliffie organised an uprated fuel pump to fit in the standard fuel tank. He has one fitted ad is happy with it, as are Courtenay Spirt I believe these are now commercially available Joe is running the standard pump AND an uprated pump/swirl pot combo if I'm not mistaken

Edited by rcvaughan, 10 April 2010 - 04:53 PM.

[The Batman]

what is cliffies uprated pump good for? must be atleast 450 probably! i am running an external swirl pot with a bosch 044 fuel pump i believe maxr is running the pro alloy tank with a 044 pump inline, like what you want to do

[Nev]

Thx guys. I am not keen on the big job of dropping the tank out of the bottom of the car to change the OEM fuel pump to cliffies one to be honest. It sounds like a tough job, though in all honesty its the best way of solving the problem as it reduces the number of parts to go wrong. Is there anyone who's dropped a fuel tank before who can help me with this please ? *beg*

Edited by Nev, 11 April 2010 - 07:09 AM.

[slindborg]

Thx guys.

I am not keen on the big job of dropping the tank out of the bottom of the car to change the OEM fuel pump to cliffies one to be honest. It sounds like a tough job, though in all honesty its the best way of solving the problem as it reduces the number of parts to go wrong.

Is there anyone who's dropped a fuel tank before who can help me with this please ? *beg*

I'm going to 'learn' howto do it soon

I think its only a real problem if your some kind of cripple with non functioning limbs

[cnrandall]

We have an uprated fuel pump and swirl pot setup which I run on the Europa alongside the stock tank and pump. Works perfectly at 420bhp in race use... we can supply a complete kit including all line, fittings etc :-)

[The Batman]

Nev just make the inspection hatch (below the parcel shelf) bigger and then pull the canister out change pumps, fit canister and make an ali plate to cover the whole

[vocky]

dropping the tank is too much hassle, do as Joe said and make the inspection cover bigger. Techieboy and myself have both used that method

[rik]

I don't think running the two pumps in serial without a swirl pot in between would work too well. You really only need the extra capacity of the high power pump when accelerating full-on which even on a race track would give time to refill the swirl pot with the std pump on corners and breaking etc..
few pics of mine..



I am running an ajustable fpr so I found a rail without the return feed (return feed now comes from the new fpr)

[slindborg]

Worst case I'm, due to be down your way to help someone fit and then map for him a set of ITB's on an engine that truly benefits from them semi soon so could find a spare few hours to help if need be.

[Mike (Cliffie)]

Nev, the problem is that the old pump has a small pre filter that over time gets filthy and clogged therefore restricting fuel flow. I believe that is a primary reason for pumps under delivering or failing. Putting a bigger capacity pump and swirl pot in-line is not really the answer, it is more of a bandage imho. I did the bigger inspection hatch thing and fitting is a case of 20 minutes work.

[Nev]

Thanks guys, and especially Cliffie.

Thanks for the offer Stuart

Thanks for the kit offer Chris.

I didn't know about the pre-filter on the OEM pump, so I guess the best solution is to 'nibble' the hatch larger and drop one of your friends new pumps in. I guess I will have to go order a metal nibbler now and pray that I don't compromise the chasis strength.

Is there enough room to pop rivet the new larger hatch down properly so as to give a bit of strength back to the cut out area?

Edited by Nev, 12 April 2010 - 12:35 PM.

[techieboy]

Is there enough room to pop rivet the new larger hatch down properly so as to give a bit of strength back to the cut out area?

Obviously depends on how big you make the hatch. I replaced the orginal rivnuts with 6 or 7 new ones to bolt the new cover in properly. I'm confident it wont have done anything detrimental to the integrity of the tub. Sinclaire's also take this approach on the Elise/Exige when replacing the pump.

Edited by techieboy, 12 April 2010 - 12:39 PM.

[Duncan VXR]

As you know Nev /others I have the external pump / swirl pot setup but do plan to replace the pre filter thing on the oe pump as a good service more than anything (car is at 78k now ) Also got one of the pumps also to fit to another car and does look a good solution - in fact as I have the pro alloy tank I would pro have done this solution if it was available at the time. I still prefer the nice big swirl pot tank setup though DG

[Nev]

Thanks Techie, do you have a metal nibbler at your place BTW ?

[techieboy]

Thanks Techie, do you have a metal nibbler at your place BTW ?

Yep, I've got an air powered one (this was the excuse I needed to buy one). You're welcome to borrow it for a while, if you've got access to a compressor at home?

[Mike (Cliffie)]

I used a hacksaw. As far as I can tell it is just a firewall and not integral to the strength of the tub and will be horrified to be corrected.

[slindborg]

I cant see how it would be integral as there is the plate of death under the tank to be the structural bit lol

[kipper]

Thanks guys, and especially Cliffie.

Thanks for the offer Stuart

Thanks for the kit offer Chris.

I didn't know about the pre-filter on the OEM pump, so I guess the best solution is to 'nibble' the hatch larger and drop one of your friends new pumps in. I guess I will have to go order a metal nibbler now and pray that I don't compromise the chasis strength.

Is there enough room to pop rivet the new larger hatch down properly so as to give a bit of strength back to the cut out area?

I'm just going throght the trail and tribulations of fitting my Pro-Alloy fuel tank today, so I need to cut a hatch and drop the tank. For the guys that have done it, what size enlargement is necessary? As far as I can see the current hatch bearly uncovers the edge of the pump, and with an OD of about 150 mm, the hatch would have to be at least 160X160 mm to provide access to withdraw/drop the pump body and mounting flange in and out. A rectangular cut would of course be the easiest solution.

Thanks Dave