One question though, do you need a different hand tool to insert rivnuts (as opposed to a normal and riveter) ?
Yes, different to normal rivets
Posted 13 April 2010 - 12:18 PM
One question though, do you need a different hand tool to insert rivnuts (as opposed to a normal and riveter) ?
Posted 13 April 2010 - 12:20 PM
We aims to please.Wow, excelent thread this. Thanks for the piccies Techie. I will attempt this once I am healed from my skiing accident. Will palce an order for the replacement pump (assuming it can provide upto 500 BHP's worth of fuel).
I've got a proper rivnut insertion tool but it's easy enough to use a long bolt of the right size and a few nuts to tighten it up and fix them in place. You're welcome to borrow it when the time comes. I've also got a shed load of various sizes of aluminium rivnuts to go with it.One question though, do you need a different hand tool to insert rivnuts (as opposed to a normal and riveter) ?
Posted 13 April 2010 - 12:38 PM
Edited by Nev, 13 April 2010 - 12:39 PM.
Posted 13 April 2010 - 12:48 PM
Posted 13 April 2010 - 12:50 PM
Wow, excelent thread this. Thanks for the piccies Techie. I will attempt this once I am healed from my skiing accident. Will palce an order for the replacement pump (assuming it can provide upto 500 BHP's worth of fuel).
One question though, do you need a different hand tool to insert rivnuts (as opposed to a normal hand riveter) ?
Posted 13 April 2010 - 12:50 PM
Does anyone happen to know the flow capacity in LPH or GPH of the OEM pump by any chance and at what pressure it can supply at ?
Posted 13 April 2010 - 02:37 PM
How strange. All of those cables in mine are internal to the car and not within the void. The wiring grommet goes through the bulkhead to the engine bay just to the rear of the seatbelt reel.
Mine being a Tubby, there might be some difference, there's wiring for the seat belt device, speakers, ultrasonic alarm, and areial, passing through a large grommet in the inspection cover. Going to have to make a semi circular cutout both in the cover plate and tub to close on the grommet.
This might show the quickfit connectors a little better
Posted 13 April 2010 - 08:56 PM
Posted 02 October 2011 - 02:59 PM
Thanks guys, and especially Cliffie.
Thanks for the offer Stuart
Thanks for the kit offer Chris.
I didn't know about the pre-filter on the OEM pump, so I guess the best solution is to 'nibble' the hatch larger and drop one of your friends new pumps in. I guess I will have to go order a metal nibbler now and pray that I don't compromise the chasis strength.
Is there enough room to pop rivet the new larger hatch down properly so as to give a bit of strength back to the cut out area?
I'm just going throght the trail and tribulations of fitting my Pro-Alloy fuel tank today, so I need to cut a hatch and drop the tank. For the guys that have done it, what size enlargement is necessary? As far as I can see the current hatch bearly uncovers the edge of the pump, and with an OD of about 150 mm, the hatch would have to be at least 160X160 mm to provide access to withdraw/drop the pump body and mounting flange in and out. A rectangular cut would of course be the easiest solution.
Thanks Dave
Posted 03 October 2011 - 07:33 PM
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