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Fuel Pumps And Swirl Pots...


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#41 Zoobeef

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Posted 13 April 2010 - 12:18 PM

One question though, do you need a different hand tool to insert rivnuts (as opposed to a normal and riveter) ?


Yes, different to normal rivets

#42 techieboy

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Posted 13 April 2010 - 12:20 PM

Wow, excelent thread this. Thanks for the piccies Techie. I will attempt this once I am healed from my skiing accident. Will palce an order for the replacement pump (assuming it can provide upto 500 BHP's worth of fuel).

We aims to please. :)

One question though, do you need a different hand tool to insert rivnuts (as opposed to a normal and riveter) ?

I've got a proper rivnut insertion tool but it's easy enough to use a long bolt of the right size and a few nuts to tighten it up and fix them in place. You're welcome to borrow it when the time comes. I've also got a shed load of various sizes of aluminium rivnuts to go with it. thumbsup

#43 Nev

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Posted 13 April 2010 - 12:38 PM

Does anyone happen to know the flow capacity in LPH or GPH of the OEM pump by any chance and at what pressure it can supply at ?

Edited by Nev, 13 April 2010 - 12:39 PM.


#44 techieboy

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Posted 13 April 2010 - 12:48 PM

If you get no joy on here, ask Jon at Courtenay's. He finally managed to extract the proper specs from somebody at Lotus, a couple of months back. thumbsup

#45 Mike (Cliffie)

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Posted 13 April 2010 - 12:50 PM

Wow, excelent thread this. Thanks for the piccies Techie. I will attempt this once I am healed from my skiing accident. Will palce an order for the replacement pump (assuming it can provide upto 500 BHP's worth of fuel).

One question though, do you need a different hand tool to insert rivnuts (as opposed to a normal hand riveter) ?


I am not so sure the 255 l/ph Walbro pump goes to 500 BHP.

#46 siztenboots

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Posted 13 April 2010 - 12:50 PM

Does anyone happen to know the flow capacity in LPH or GPH of the OEM pump by any chance and at what pressure it can supply at ?


should be a table of values or graph with flow vs pressure for given supply voltage/current

#47 kipper

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Posted 13 April 2010 - 02:37 PM


Mine being a Tubby, there might be some difference, there's wiring for the seat belt device, speakers, ultrasonic alarm, and areial, passing through a large grommet in the inspection cover. Going to have to make a semi circular cutout both in the cover plate and tub to close on the grommet.

How strange. All of those cables in mine are internal to the car and not within the void. The wiring grommet goes through the bulkhead to the engine bay just to the rear of the seatbelt reel.

This might show the quickfit connectors a little better

Posted Image



Strange indeed. I'll get some pics up later on for the tubby owners who might also be doing this mod.

Can't be arsed waiting for the nibbler now that I have the shared knowledge...attacking with grinder tonight :o

#48 kipper

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Posted 13 April 2010 - 08:56 PM

Well here are the results of this evenings work:

Before:

Standard inspection cover with part of loom passing through the plate.


Posted Image



After: Hole cut with thin blade angle grinder, slowly and carefully trying to avoid any production of sparks. Before starting ensure that there is absolutely no evidence of fuel or petrol vapours present.

Posted Image

Need to tidy up the apperature and possibly extend it slightly above 115 mm (OD of pump housing).

Now with the pump out, tempted to dismantle the pump housing to check out the filter, as from previous posts, blockage of the filter can give problems. More electrical connections to be dismantled under the pump flange :(
Waiting for Rivnuts and tool inorder to make new closing plate.

#49 JG

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Posted 02 October 2011 - 02:59 PM


Thanks guys, and especially Cliffie.

Thanks for the offer Stuart Posted Image

Thanks for the kit offer Chris.

I didn't know about the pre-filter on the OEM pump, so I guess the best solution is to 'nibble' the hatch larger and drop one of your friends new pumps in. I guess I will have to go order a metal nibbler now and pray that I don't compromise the chasis strength.

Is there enough room to pop rivet the new larger hatch down properly so as to give a bit of strength back to the cut out area?



I'm just going throght the trail and tribulations of fitting my Pro-Alloy fuel tank today, so I need to cut a hatch and drop the tank. For the guys that have done it, what size enlargement is necessary? As far as I can see the current hatch bearly uncovers the edge of the pump, and with an OD of about 150 mm, the hatch would have to be at least 160X160 mm to provide access to withdraw/drop the pump body and mounting flange in and out. A rectangular cut would of course be the easiest solution.

Thanks Dave


Does anyone have a definitive OD of the fuel pump Assy?

#50 Nev

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Posted 03 October 2011 - 07:33 PM

Sorry no, but there are a few pics on my website if thats any use.




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