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Drivers Side Engine Mount Guide


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#21 Craig S

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Posted 16 June 2010 - 09:59 AM


The bolted parts for sure, I am not so sure about the cable tied parts though Posted Image

Best of luck for getting the mount in, just a pity you could not get some heat on the stuck bolts.


hmmmm.... I have one of those little kitchen blowtorches for flambe'ing stuff. Maybe could get that out! Posted Image



Just showing off you have a kitchen now Posted Image

Don't flambe the clam!

#22 MaDFreeBiRD

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Posted 22 October 2010 - 05:15 PM

I have previously changed both of mine before with no problems, also did mine again yesterday. Tried to do a mates car today, pax side was no problem apart from the wheel being welded on :/ but the rest was fine. The drivers side on the other hand...was next level. Lets put it this way its now booked in BoT tomorrow morning to get that side done. I have never come across bolts that tight it must be the fact they have never been removed since the car was built or something. I swear nothing is ever straight forward with these cars :rolleyes:

#23 Nev

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Posted 22 October 2010 - 08:46 PM

*gulp* Im tackling both my engine mounts tomorrow morning... :mellow:

#24 Ben NA

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Posted 22 October 2010 - 10:37 PM

As Freebird said, the bolts on the drivers side on my car will not budge! 2 hours of trying different levering techniques on all three of the bolts and we came to the conclusion that it was worth travelling an hour to Guildford to get it sorted. Hopefully my cut and swollen hand will be able to grip the steering wheel tomorrow! Has anyone ever welded the engine mount "strut" to the sub frame? I'm not up for changing these more than once every few years.

#25 Bargi

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Posted 22 October 2010 - 10:57 PM

:yeahthat: pain in the ass, all mine were tight as a ducks you know what Nut on top of the mount, 45nm my ass, stuck fast and ended up rounding the nut, had to angle grind it off in the end (with a shite pneumatic grinder so it took half a bloody hour!) have fun! :P

#26 slindborg

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Posted 23 October 2010 - 08:34 AM

Nev, you will be fine as you have the turbo.... easier access on the drivers side ;) I find for the N/A drivers mount I tend to use a 3/8" drive ratchet and a low profile 15mm socket... then slip the jack handle over the handle and you have yourself a low profile 'breaker bar' :)

#27 siztenboots

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Posted 23 October 2010 - 09:59 AM

If you want to destroy bearings them use wd40 on them Use a penetrating oil not paraffin with perfume added

#28 Nev

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Posted 23 October 2010 - 06:24 PM

Ohhh sweet Jesus... I spent 1.5 hours on the offside one today. 1: Got the 15mm socket onto it with 2 extenders, but it just slipped when torqued.... 2: Destroyed 2 brand new HSS drill bits trying to drill it out, but the bolt is still in there. Will order the parts and have to hack it about again when I have move patience... Terrible terrible access/design... honestly, they guy who designed it should be shot.

#29 cramman

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Posted 23 October 2010 - 06:34 PM

Aye, access is a pain, fishing around with a mile of extension isn't fun. I have a small socket set, teng tools thing, and its brilliant for working on cars.

#30 slindborg

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Posted 23 October 2010 - 07:21 PM

WTF have you you two been doing? :lol: Its a piece of p*ss to get the well hidden nuts and I've never known one to round off :s

#31 Mangham54

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Posted 14 February 2011 - 07:02 PM

Gonna attempt this tonight, so I shall get some pics as go along and stick them on here when I am done for future reference

#32 Mangham54

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Posted 14 February 2011 - 10:29 PM

What a fûcking miscarriage that was!!!!!! rant

Here are the pictures and video I managed before I had to put everything back together as part of a bad job!

Posted Image

Posted Image

http://i925.photobuc...54/74787578.mp4

Well further to Stuarts initial post you can only do this with a 3/8" socket set and extension bars as a 15mm socket for a 1/2" set will not fit through the whole lotus gave me due to a copious amounts of that fantastic rant red glue. So went and got a 3/8" set, but needed some extension bars... So popped down to Halfords and would have had to spend over £20 for the two... Screw that I thought... So had a look for a 1/2" female to 3/8" male adaptor and of course they don't stock it.... What a crock of shite
So 2.5hrs later all I have just managed is to remove and refit the wheel and wheel arch liner and one bolt on the engine mount. Grrr!

So shall have to try again another day!

#33 Ouchie

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Posted 14 February 2011 - 11:42 PM

Machinemart for the socket size converters thumbsup

#34 Mangham54

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Posted 14 February 2011 - 11:43 PM

Machinemart for the socket size converters thumbsup


Hmmm... Better find my nearest. Cheers Ouchie. thumbsup

#35 Mangham54

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Posted 15 February 2011 - 12:14 AM

A poor workman always blames his tools... So they say! So how do would you describe the workman who fails to recognise exactly the part he needs in his tool kit, who handled it whilst getting the other out of it's box? My description would be: a fücking muppet! So I know what I am likely to be doing on Thursday night... Having another wrestle with the engine mounts and that delightful mount bracket, and the infuriating arch liner!

Edited by Mangham54, 15 February 2011 - 12:17 AM.


#36 starlight

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Posted 15 February 2011 - 09:52 AM

Could be worse, could of looked like this :blink:

Posted Image

#37 Mangham54

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Posted 15 February 2011 - 12:26 PM

Could be worse, could of looked like this :blink:

Posted Image



Yeah you're right...

#38 Steffe

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Posted 22 February 2011 - 01:56 PM

I am thinking of changing these mounts as my rear clam is of. According to Opel the cost about 130£ each. Is this correct or is it possible to get them for less? I think its a bit expensive...

#39 ChrisS1

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Posted 22 February 2011 - 02:05 PM

They are alot cheaper from autovax However, looking at your location I dont know if getting them from them is feasible for you??

#40 techieboy

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Posted 22 February 2011 - 02:23 PM

I think its a bit expensive...

Yes, it is.

£24.53 each from Autovaux and they do ship internationally. thumbsup




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