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*How To* Passenger Side Inner Cv Boot Replace


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#1 slindborg

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Posted 06 September 2010 - 09:11 AM

No pics, just words... someone else can clean up even 5 mins and take pics :lol: I just wanted to get the job done. Parts needed GM inner CV boot kit (contains boot, clips/springs and grease) The CV boot straps that have holes in rather than the smooth ones included in the kit. Tools needed What ever you use to take the undertray off with. Ball joint seperator (either fork/hammering type or the posh one with the bolt to lever open) 'external' circlip pliers smallish flat blade screwdriver rag/paper towel, LOTS AND LOTS of it!!!!! 10mm socket/spanner 17mm socket/spanner for brake caliper 19mm Open/Ring spanner (sorry ratchet wont fit :( ) 15mm (I think) open ended spanner for the outer toe link joint N/A 12mm socket(I think, could have been 13mm) for toe link nut tubby 19mm (possibly) socket for toe link nut 5mm allen key 6mm allen key Sharp knifepliers Side cutters, and or nail pincers (wood working stylee) Hammer! (always needed :lol:) I shall forego the jacking/ taking wheel off, but add, this time I wussed out and put axel stands under the pax side as there was a lot of hammering/pulling going on prior to realising exactly how to do it. Remove the 'middle' undertray, although we did it with the full tray out. Car in gear! Handbrake off! With the wheel off Take the handbrake cable out of the caliper, undo the nut on the P clip that holds the cable on the wishbone. Undo the bolt holding the brake fluid pipe on the other side of the wishbone. Undo the 17mm bolt holding the top of the caliper in place. drift the pin holding the pads in, out. remove the front pad and rotate the caliper to remove the rear pad, undo the lower bolt with the 6mm allen key, place the caliper on the floor or anywhere with NO strain on the hose. undo the 5mm locating screw on the disc. take disc off (might need a hammering if its been on a long time) Take the damper out, two bolts, 15mm nut and 17mm bolt.. undo the upper and lower ball join nuts, split the upper and lower joints but leave on the studs to hold while you remove the toe link from the knuckle (you will probably need to slip a spanner in under the knuckle to stop it spinning while undoing). Now for the messy bit slice the inner CV boot away from the shaft, remove as much (all) of the boot as possible start removing the old grease to make life easier (this stuff sticks like cat shoite so be careful). With the wishbones lifted up the insides of the joint should plunge towards the gearbox, jack or helper to hold the assembly up while you gently prize out a clip from a groove about 5mm from the outer edge of the "cup" of the CV joint. With that removed, lower the wishbones/take the hub off the balljoint studs and slide it all out, catch and ball bearings that fall. You will now have a messy end of a shaft with a 'cage' 6 large ball bearings and an inner 6 toothed 'gear' (for want of a better term). Clean up the balls and place to one side The cage will drop down the shaft so expect that ;) There is a circlip on the end of the shaft, remove this. Remove the 'gear' from the shaft. Clean everything up, remove the cage too. Clean the old grease from the cup thats left in the gearbox. Slide the CV joint clip onto the shaft, slide the CV boot (with a LITTLE) grease in it down the shaft (small end first). Slide the cage onto the shaft (I did a few checks and it looks like its NOT directional), refit the 'gear' to the shaft (note that there is a 3-5mm Smooth section inside the gears splines, this goes to the bottom of the shaft). Fit the NEW circlip to the shaft to hold the 'gear' in place. Grease time. Apply grease to all faces of the 'gear', slip the cage up and get it lined up so that you can fit the bearings, 'glue' the bearings into the holes in the cage/'gear'. Apply grease to the 6 grooves in the cup (on the car), apply grease all over the cage/bearings (careful not to let any fall out). Place the larger CV boot clip over the cup. Gently slip the freshly greased innards into the cup, get a helper (or jack) to hold the knuckle/hub side while you fit a NEW clip into the groove in the cup to retain the joint. Place the knuckle onto the ball joint studs again. Do the CV clips up firm/tightly. Slotted strap method. Get as much tension on the strap as possible, even use the old large spring clip to wiggle through the 'teeth' into the next set of holes and lever along. use side cutters or preferably nail pincers crimp up the small part of the strap thats raised. (even better use the right tool :lol:) Do this to the little and large ones. Refit the wishbone nuts + spacer washer for lower one. Refit the toe linke joint + relevant spacers etc. Refit brake disc Refit caliper + pads Refit handbrake cable Refit the P clips Refit Wheel Refit undertray DONE :) Any glaring mistakes etc then shout.

#2 Mike (Cliffie)

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Posted 06 September 2010 - 12:09 PM

Isn't that a fun job Stu.

#3 Duncan VXR

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Posted 06 September 2010 - 12:24 PM

All the best jobs involve taking most of the suspension bits off and removing gearbox bits :P - mixing in lots of old grease just adds to the experiance ;) - it really is SUPER sticky atuff :D Glad I am not the only one who is really bad for taking pics during jobs lol Good stuff going to the trouble of typing it up for others ;) DG

#4 RobNA

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Posted 06 September 2010 - 12:28 PM

Cheers for your help on saturday mate :) Just got the tray back on, and front clam back on and bled the system and taken it out for a test drive rallly

#5 slindborg

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Posted 06 September 2010 - 12:37 PM

All the best jobs involve taking most of the suspension bits off and removing gearbox bits :P - mixing in lots of old grease just adds to the experiance ;) - it really is SUPER sticky atuff :D

Glad I am not the only one who is really bad for taking pics during jobs lol

Good stuff going to the trouble of typing it up for others ;)

DG


:lol: you either need a clean laky to take pics or have a full clean down evey step/5mins to take pics.

Now I know exactly how to do the pax side, I reckon its about an hour TOPS, more likely 30mins job :)


The Gm kit comes with only just enough to lube it satisfactorally imho.

#6 Dave E

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Posted 06 September 2010 - 01:26 PM

Where did you get the GM inner CV boot kit. PSR waited 6 weeks for one before we gave up and used a universal one.

#7 RobNA

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Posted 07 September 2010 - 04:27 PM

Where did you get the GM inner CV boot kit. PSR waited 6 weeks for one before we gave up and used a universal one.


I got it from Vaux in St Albans (who got it from Hemel Hempsted branch because St Albans are not a VX branch, but had already taken my money before realising what they were ordering :rolleyes: )

Took 1 day to arrive thumbsup

#8 Dave E

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Posted 15 July 2011 - 10:53 AM

Here's some picture I took for another thread that might be useful.

Wire clip in next photo stops the cv/boot separating. You can also see the retaining clip at the end of the gearbox end of the shaft.

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Max inward movement, this also shows the retaining clip/wire thingy

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Circlip holding cv in place

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Inside "cup" showing channels the ball bearing can slide in

Posted Image

Edited by VXT'ED, 15 July 2011 - 10:55 AM.


#9 System-G

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Posted 20 August 2011 - 07:45 PM

Did the job today thumbsup A relative POP - the most difficult bit was messing about with the handbrake cable... Missed the clip that holds the CV together (not even realising it was in there) and gave a purposeful tug on the driveshaft which promptly popped out the gearbox end causing gearbox oil to start pouring out :blush: Only lost a couple of ml though thumbsup Only thing I don't understand is why the damper needs removing? I have Nitrons fitted and found no need to remove at all. Perhaps different if OEM dampers are still fitted?

#10 slindborg

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Posted 20 August 2011 - 10:17 PM

Thinking about it, its not 'vital' to remove the damper, but it did free up a feck load of space :)

#11 Mike (Cliffie)

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Posted 22 August 2011 - 12:01 PM

We did one in the paddock at Le Mans. Left the undertrays, wishbones and shocker in place, just undid the rear toe link and we got enough room to remove the outer joint. Saves a boat load of time. 45 minutes start to finish and that included not being able to touch much as it was all still really hot.

#12 kingwowns

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Posted 02 December 2012 - 02:29 PM

Used this guide with Chris in Leeds recently and it went well - Cliffies additional comments saved us some time too! Ta

#13 siztenboots

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Posted 19 April 2013 - 11:48 AM

any part numbers for the kit/s ?

#14 kingwowns

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Posted 22 April 2013 - 11:38 PM

I've dug out the paperwork from Autovaux - the OEM part no. is AS9197858. 48 ex Vat. Hope that helps!

#15 Steve.i.am

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Posted 01 June 2013 - 06:36 PM

Did this today. Guide was a huge help. Thanks. I didn't need to remove the damper. My ball joint breaker (bolt type) wouldnt fit into the lower ball joint (top was ok) but found there's enough clearance to get the inner joint out by just swivelling the hub around on the lower joint.

#16 adamvx220

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Posted 08 October 2013 - 06:56 PM

Sorry this is going to sound really stupid but how do I get the new inner cv joint on without pulling the shaft out of the gearbox? Again sorry for the dum question lol

#17 fezzasus

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Posted 08 October 2013 - 07:13 PM

Sorry this is going to sound really stupid but how do I get the new inner cv joint on without pulling the shaft out of the gearbox? Again sorry for the dum question lol

 

Cut the remaining boot off, you will see a retaining wire, pull that out, then undo the lower wishbones and toe link, and pull the assembly away - the drive shaft will come out of the CV joint..



#18 adamvx220

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Posted 08 October 2013 - 08:22 PM

Thanks for the reply now I get how to do it cheers ad

#19 Nev

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Posted 09 October 2013 - 07:43 PM

How often do the CV joints wear out? Does anyone know of one doing so please?



#20 fezzasus

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Posted 09 October 2013 - 07:50 PM

How often do the CV joints wear out? Does anyone know of one doing so please?

 

Nev, the rubber perishes as it ages so it's mainly age dependant rather than milage, however both stress the boot. To give you an idea, mine has just failed (and been replaced with a Kia Sedonia one) and it's 12 years old and done 86k. 






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